Bottom bracket derailleur cable guides and screw?
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Bottom bracket derailleur cable guides and screw?
I'm working on a conversion of a 1991 stumpjumper to a single speed (still for mountain biking).
Do folks generally remove the cable guide under the bottom bracket shell? I'm curious whether I should replace the screw (to keep water out) or leave it open (to let anything that gets in drain out).
Is there a general consensus on what to do in this situation?
Do folks generally remove the cable guide under the bottom bracket shell? I'm curious whether I should replace the screw (to keep water out) or leave it open (to let anything that gets in drain out).
Is there a general consensus on what to do in this situation?
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If you have a cartridge BB, I would recommend leaving the screw out for drainage, esp if you are going to riding the rain or wet without fenders. (Water runs down seat tubes. Keep the BB shell open and it drains out. Seal it and it puddles and stays.
If you have traditional road-style cup and cone BB and ride in a lot of dirt, the answer isn't quite so simple. Dirt is the enemy of cup and cone bearings, as is standing water.
I don't mountain bike, so I do not know what most do here. Fenders are the obvious help for BBS, esp front fenders with deep flaps, but I can see that they may well be far more trouble (catching debris, etc) than they may help.
Ben
If you have traditional road-style cup and cone BB and ride in a lot of dirt, the answer isn't quite so simple. Dirt is the enemy of cup and cone bearings, as is standing water.
I don't mountain bike, so I do not know what most do here. Fenders are the obvious help for BBS, esp front fenders with deep flaps, but I can see that they may well be far more trouble (catching debris, etc) than they may help.
Ben
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Spray some Framesaver inside your tubes to keep the rust from forming. Leave the hole for drainage.
They make plastic sleeves for the old cup and cone bottom brackets.
They make plastic sleeves for the old cup and cone bottom brackets.
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If you've never had a water in the frame issue in the past you might as well leave the screw in place well greased to prevent rust. Otherwise, you can leave it out and have a weephole.
Either is fine, the the "right" answer depends on your specific circumstances.
Either is fine, the the "right" answer depends on your specific circumstances.
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Ah, the details I leave out that I don't think of as being relevant.
I am using a modern sealed BB (the one that comes with the raceface crankset I bought), and I already applied rust inhibitor (boeshield t-9) to the inside of the top and downtubes, fork steerer, fork blades, seatstays, chainstays, and seat tube.
I am using a modern sealed BB (the one that comes with the raceface crankset I bought), and I already applied rust inhibitor (boeshield t-9) to the inside of the top and downtubes, fork steerer, fork blades, seatstays, chainstays, and seat tube.
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Ah, the details I leave out that I don't think of as being relevant.
I am using a modern sealed BB (the one that comes with the raceface crankset I bought), and I already applied rust inhibitor (boeshield t-9) to the inside of the top and downtubes, fork steerer, fork blades, seatstays, chainstays, and seat tube.
I am using a modern sealed BB (the one that comes with the raceface crankset I bought), and I already applied rust inhibitor (boeshield t-9) to the inside of the top and downtubes, fork steerer, fork blades, seatstays, chainstays, and seat tube.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.