Schwinning
#1
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Schwinning
In the late 1980s Schwinn was in trouble. They had moved bicycle production to Mississippi, but it didn't workout so well.
About that time, I purchased my first road bike from a Schwinn Authorized Dealer. It was a 1988 Traveler. The Traveler was priced just under $300 - about the same as the entry level Fuji racing bike next to it in the shop.
Over the years, the Schwinn has been a commuter, a fitness bike, a rehab device and a century machine.
It has had several modifications - the biggest being the wheelset. This time I decided to do a complete tear down, paint and rebuild.
This is what it looked like before work began
The stripped down frameset
About that time, I purchased my first road bike from a Schwinn Authorized Dealer. It was a 1988 Traveler. The Traveler was priced just under $300 - about the same as the entry level Fuji racing bike next to it in the shop.
Over the years, the Schwinn has been a commuter, a fitness bike, a rehab device and a century machine.
It has had several modifications - the biggest being the wheelset. This time I decided to do a complete tear down, paint and rebuild.
This is what it looked like before work began
The stripped down frameset
#2
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I am a well-know procrastinator and it's been a busy spring, so work progressed slowly.
I set a budget of $500. That covered the complete drivetrain, brakes and overhaul items like the chain, cables and housings, etc.
I did all of the painting by hand with a brush and enamel paints from the local hardware store. The results were not bad. Four coats with wet sanding between coats
The paint rig
I set a budget of $500. That covered the complete drivetrain, brakes and overhaul items like the chain, cables and housings, etc.
I did all of the painting by hand with a brush and enamel paints from the local hardware store. The results were not bad. Four coats with wet sanding between coats
The paint rig
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The suspense builds.
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I avoided buying the expensive headset tools, with some help from Dave Moulton's blog
Here's my $3 headset press.
Here's my $3 headset press.
#5
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#6
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This overhaul was originally going to be a conversion from road bike to semi-townie. So, I selected the Polyvalent crankset from Velo Orange because of the elegant guard and lower gearing - 46/30 chainring combo. Now it will be useful for working on getting my cadence up.
#7
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The only original parts, other than the frame and fork, are the stem and the seat post. The wheelset was upgraded in the 90s to Mavic MA40 with 105 hubs and DT spokes. 7 speed cassette -- downtube shifters were upgraged and aero brake levers were added then too.
It is now essentially a "105 bike".
Front and read derailers are 105 5600. The rear is GS.
Brakes are Tektro R536.
Saddle is Ritchey Streem.
Bar is Dimension with Serfas Synthetic Cork tape.
Headset is a modified FSA Duron X - the lower portion modified to fit JIS fork.
Crank is the Velo Orange Polyvalent with their Grand Cru BB.
The all-important bottle cage is a shiny aluminum one from my LBS.
Tires are Serfas Seca RS 25mm.
Pedals are Time iClic.
It is now essentially a "105 bike".
Front and read derailers are 105 5600. The rear is GS.
Brakes are Tektro R536.
Saddle is Ritchey Streem.
Bar is Dimension with Serfas Synthetic Cork tape.
Headset is a modified FSA Duron X - the lower portion modified to fit JIS fork.
Crank is the Velo Orange Polyvalent with their Grand Cru BB.
The all-important bottle cage is a shiny aluminum one from my LBS.
Tires are Serfas Seca RS 25mm.
Pedals are Time iClic.
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Last edited by rjones28; 06-29-11 at 06:19 PM.
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Nice job. That crankset is really nice
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is that paint house paint? did you really use a brush? I'm only asking cuz i do automotive paint...mostly as a hobby. Im wondering if you can see the brush strokes and is there a clear coat?
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Nice! My first roadie was a 1985 Traveler. I loved that bike. My GF at the time lived about 10 miles away up a big hill and I would ride to her house daily ...wish hills today felt that good.
#18
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I really did use a brush. I used an oil-based enamel called X-O Rust that I got at the local True Value Hardware. It actually flowed pretty well without a lot of brush strokes visible. The sanding takes care of the rest. Room temp was over 70 degrees.
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I've been riding that frame for 23 years and it hasn't sploded yet. We'll see how these new-fangled parts hold up.
#20
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#22
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True Temper 4130 double butted chromemoly main triangle. It's not light, but it is durable.
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<--prep and lay auto 2k paint(as well as waterbourne)
to the OP: the color choice looks great with the red highlight! glad to see one that doesn't get a lime green paint job and chop off bullhorn(the usual schwin theme in my area)