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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Addiction LXXV

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Old 08-11-19, 10:17 AM
  #1926  
kissTheApex
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Originally Posted by datlas
Highest I really need is 50 for cassette lockrings. But you can do these by feel, once you know. Lowest I need is 5.

So 5-50.

edit: might be 40 see below
Thanks both. I have an 1/2” drive for auto work that I can use for cassettes (if I ever use it for cassettes to begin with). Till you mentioned it, I didn’t even think about the cassettes to be honest. I was mostly thinking about seatpost, stem screws, crank arms and such as if they’re the only components that need tightening
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Old 08-11-19, 10:24 AM
  #1927  
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Originally Posted by kissTheApex
Thanks both. I have an 1/2” drive for auto work that I can use for cassettes (if I ever use it for cassettes to begin with). Till you mentioned it, I didn’t even think about the cassettes to be honest. I was mostly thinking about seatpost, stem screws, crank arms and such as if they’re the only components that need tightening
The only thing I can think of that’s less than 4 or 5 is stem cap when preloading, but that should be done by feel and not Nm anyway.
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Old 08-11-19, 10:38 AM
  #1928  
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Originally Posted by datlas
Done.

Thanks for keeping me honest!
I have selfish reasons.
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Old 08-11-19, 10:40 AM
  #1929  
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
I thought it was supposed to be 40 Nm on lockrings. But out of the hundreds I've put done, I've only once put a torque wrench on one and I've never had one loosen and I've never broken or stripped one.
I've stripped a couple Shimano ones. I haven't in a long time so they've probably beefed them up. A long time ago, they were sort of this two part thing and you could break the bond between the threads and the cover of the lock-ring.
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Old 08-11-19, 11:22 AM
  #1930  
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
I have selfish reasons.
You have another ride in you today?!
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Old 08-11-19, 11:44 AM
  #1931  
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Originally Posted by datlas
You have another ride in you today?!
Yes, but it will be a short one. Can’t catch you. All I can hope for is that the west time zone guys are taking the day off so I can make 2nd or 3rd.

According to Strava, I had one day off in July and none this month. I attribute my new-found energy to my new vegiturkian diet.
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Old 08-11-19, 11:55 AM
  #1932  
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Originally Posted by kissTheApex
Guys, I know it’s been discussed before, but, what’s a good range of Nm for a 1/4” torque drive? I have my eye on a beam type, but it can only go up to 9 Nms. I’d rather have just one even if I’d have to be a little bit careful to reset to lowest setting when storing a clicker.
That’s all 1/4” beams seem to go up to.
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Old 08-11-19, 11:57 AM
  #1933  
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Originally Posted by datlas
The only thing I can think of that’s less than 4 or 5 is stem cap when preloading, but that should be done by feel and not Nm anyway.
I use a torque wrench on my valve caps and set them to .75 Nm.
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Old 08-11-19, 01:02 PM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
I use a torque wrench on my valve caps and set them to .75 Nm.
Valve caps? We don’t need no stinkin’ valve caps!
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Old 08-11-19, 02:41 PM
  #1935  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
I use a torque wrench on my valve caps and set them to .75 Nm.
Everybody knows that those should be set at 1.5.
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Old 08-11-19, 02:45 PM
  #1936  
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
I've stripped a couple Shimano ones. I haven't in a long time so they've probably beefed them up. A long time ago, they were sort of this two part thing and you could break the bond between the threads and the cover of the lock-ring.
I've shredded the little metal quasi-washer thingie. I've taken it as a sign to back off and it hasn't happened for a while.
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Old 08-11-19, 03:09 PM
  #1937  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
I use a torque wrench on my valve caps and set them to .75 Nm.
You, too? I thought I was the only one.
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Old 08-11-19, 03:33 PM
  #1938  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
I use a torque wrench on my valve caps and set them to .75 Nm.
I prefer 1.25, myself. Can’t have them coming loose on a descent.
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Old 08-11-19, 03:42 PM
  #1939  
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Valve caps! Don't those throw your wheels out of balance?

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Old 08-11-19, 03:42 PM
  #1940  
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Too easy to strip those caps, unless you by the special Ti ones they advertise in the back pages of “Today’s Dentist.”
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Old 08-11-19, 05:43 PM
  #1941  
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Originally Posted by Pirkaus
Valve caps! Don't those throw your wheels out of balance?

Balancing Act
I got bucked off a bike riding unbalanced wheels once.




#notatruestory
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Old 08-11-19, 05:47 PM
  #1942  
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Wheel weights seem to be popular with the DH guys, for whatever reason.

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Old 08-11-19, 06:42 PM
  #1943  
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Oooh, 13 lb steel is real.

Starts at 12:15

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Old 08-11-19, 08:36 PM
  #1944  
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@datlas. Yes, that too
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Old 08-12-19, 05:02 AM
  #1945  
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Someone abandoned a disabled car in front of my house at around 3 a.m. last night. Probably stolen. The noise from the rim scraping the ground woke me up. Police towed it away 15 min. ago.

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Old 08-12-19, 05:56 AM
  #1946  
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Beautiful pics, @seedsbelize.
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Old 08-12-19, 06:02 AM
  #1947  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
Beautiful pics, @seedsbelize.
I see the draw. Like paradise.
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Old 08-12-19, 08:14 AM
  #1948  
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Incessant jackhammering on the street below.
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Old 08-12-19, 10:42 AM
  #1949  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Incessant jackhammering on the street below.
That probably doesn't happen much in Belize.
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Old 08-12-19, 10:47 AM
  #1950  
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I was cleaning up one of my email inboxes last night and found I missed an alert from Gevenalle that their audax shifters were back in stock. I do have a frame hanging on my wall that needs to be built up. Or I could reconfigure my grab-and-go bike (though I did just re-do the handlebar tape). Hmmm...tempting.
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