Originally Posted by wrk101

"Only needs gear adjustment" is so classic. If that's all it needs, seller should do it. Diagnosis without investigation = total, complete guess. If he is that knowledgeable, then he could "fix" in 2 minutes. If he is not knowledgeable (more likely), then again its just a guess and could be more serious.

Flat tires = discount. It's a race bike, no room for fenders.


A deal on a bike that needs some work is best if you have the time/tools/aptitude to do the work yourself. Shops around here charge $80 an hour. They would be happy to diagnosis the problem and fix it but it could get relatively expensive. Or it could be a two minute job.

Also if you are looking for a comfortable bike that can fit fenders, look elsewhere. A good deal on the wrong bike may not be that good of a deal in the end.

When a seller is too lazy to even air up tires before advertising their bike, I wonder about other maintenance.

Originally Posted by skou

That is some really great arguments! Might be a bit risky believing that it is"just gear adjustment". I haven't room in my pocket for expensive repairs, and I prefer to repair my bikes by my self. I guess could do most repairs my self as I'm a car mechanic, but I don't have special requirements tools if a demanding repair is needed.

I'm looking for a commuter that most importantly is LIGHT and also durable, as I will be cycling ~20 km a day for the next couple of years. My old and heavy horse is kinda outdated so to speak. Therefore I'm looking at race bikes. I consider going without fenders, as it kinda sucks to arrive soaked anyway. Public transportation is also an option for me, but I would prefer going by bike.

The flat tires do indeed send a signal of bad maintenance, like - come on, this bike should look more attractive than ever.

Originally Posted by Bianchigirll

The rear derailleur (RD) needs to be replaced. That late '80s Chorus RD was designed to work on 6 or 7 speed Synchro shifters and is not compatable with Ergo style shifters. So basically the bike doesn't work.

The frame is likely aluminum and I believe dates to the late '90s early 2000s but I need more information the tubing to know for sure.

As Work points out there is no provisions for fenders on this bike, it is a racing bike not a commuter.

If you can't do mechanical work to overhaul the hubs and headset, install and adjust a correct RD then this not the bike for you.

Originally Posted by skou

Okay, what the heck.... How can someone sell a bike that doesn't work?! I don't have the tools, time or the money to do demanding work, so I guess that is it.

This just saved me from doing a bad purchase, so THANKS a lot!!

What determines whether it is a racing bike or a commuter? The space between the rear tire and the frame or what?

Originally Posted by wrk101

+10 To Bianchigirl, I see bikes for sale with obvious frame crash damage all the time. And any "issue" is always a "quick fix". Sellers probably don't know, but regardless, damaged bikes get bought by suckers, who then take it to a bike shop for the simple adjustment, and find out its not so simple.

I myself am OK buying damaged bikes, But I pay a really low price, and I sometimes just end up with some parts. I made two offers this week on broken bikes. Sellers are holding firm, hoping to find a sucker, which may happen. If not, I'll probably get a call. I make reasonable offers based on what work is needed, but not an offer based on assuming everything is fine. I am OK with not buying a bike with problems.


On the racing bike or commuter question. Road bikes are racing bikes. The more serious models will have little to no clearance for wider tires and fenders, and no braze ons (connection points) for racks or fenders either. If you know what to look for, it's obvious.

A quick glance of the bike you posted shows the rear tire is VERY close to the seat tube (not going to fit a fender there), really narrow tires, and no place to attach a rear rack.

If you want a commuter, then typically a hybrid or a rigid frame MTB will work. A touring bike will also work but they are typically more expensive, think double to triple. I avoid suspension bikes of any kind on the used market, as often the suspension is shot, and fixing it can be a problem. And the suspensions add weight and complexity, and are usually not needed. I am not going to commute down a goat path.

On almost ANY used bike that is 20 years old, you WILL have to do some maintenance. People tend to ride bikes until they break. Routine maintenance is not routine, people don't do it. A bicycle shop tune up typically is just a cable adjustment. Its not going to address 20 years of no maintenance. Pay more to get a bike someone has carefully refurbished, or buy something relatively new (5 years old +/-).

Private sellers have no obligation to sell bikes that work. It is up to the BUYER to do full inspection. Its the same with cars, RVs, and houses. Fortunately, bicycles are cheaper than the others I have listed. The way around doing a buyers inspection is to buy new and of course pay more. Lots of used bad deals out there.