rbk_3

So I have read that a new wheelset can make as big of difference as anything you can do to a bike.

My question, what would I have to spend to upgrade to a noticeable improvement over the Bondagers that came with my bike?

rpenmanparker 

I bet if you really tried, you could provide a smidgen more information. Carnac the Magnificent has long since retired.

rbk_3

More info:
Bike Trek Emonda S4
Me 5'11 196
Pretty casual rider, usually just go out myself 25-100k
Might look to do some sportives.

kc4sox

What wheels came on it ? I'm assuming Bontrager race ?

rbk_3

Specs say

Front Hub
Bontrager alloy

Rear Hub
Bontrager alloy

Rims
Bontrager Tubeless Ready

rpenmanparker 

Even before you tell us which wheels you already have, I can say this. You can't ask other folks what it would take to upgrade your wheels. You need to know that yourself. IOW you need to want something, otherwise you are not able to obtain an improvement. So what do you want. If the answer is nothing, then do nothing. If the answer is lighter weight, then we can talk you down that path. If the answer is aero, that is a different route. If the answer is carbon, and so forth. If you don't know that you want anything, then what would be an upgrade to you. Yes I am being a bit of a prick here, but just think about what I am saying. No matter what you do, you won't go much faster. It is all vanity for the casual rider anyway. So ride a while more, and bye and bye you may feel a "need". Then we can help you fulfill that. Just spending money, because other folks think you should, makes no sense at all.

BTW riding alone mostly you are very fortunate. There is no one to tell you what all you are lacking. If I were you, I wouldn't rock that boat.

big chainring 

Heck, I have 40 year old steel rimmed 27 x 1 1/4" wheels on my bike. I like 'em. If the wheels turn freely, and are round, not much to be gained by getting new ones.

Improve your pedaling, endurance, power, then think about what you want out of wheels. One of the best frame builders in the country gave out a secret to me. "If a bike has pedals, wheels, handlebars, yeah it should ride well". In other words they are all kinda the same, a bike is a bike.

Drew Eckhardt 

$700-$1000 to get a rear PowerTap wheel and optional matching front for aesthetics. You can use that to optimize your structured training plan and pace efforts so you go as hard as possible without blowing up. That increased my power to weight ratio from under 1.9W/kg to over 3.5W/kg which lets me use a 50 ring on hills where I needed a 30 and cover over 20 miles in an hour out and back. A matching front will add a bit more.

Modern deep alloy rims have OK aerodynamics at a 0 degree yaw angle and moving to something more aerodynamic will only net you 10W at 25 MPH. At 250W that may increase your speed on flat ground with no wind from 23.7 to 24.0 MPH dropping your 40k time 53 seconds from 1:03:01 to 1:02:08. Expect to spend at least $1000 on that pair of wind tunnel tested carbon wheels (otherwise the only performance guarantees are a fast look and cool wooshing sound).

yankeefan

Believe it or not those are actually pretty decent wheels for a casual cyclist. As pedantic as he may sound, Rob is pretty right in terms of going faster the biggest upgrade you can make is losing body weight/getting fitter. A lot of "upgrades" really are just hype, though for a competitive rider the marginal improvements are worth it, especially since they likely have sponsors providing the equipment for them.

In any case, the mid-tier wheels for recreational cyclists are typically in the $500-$1000 range, but you'd have to spend closer to $1000 to really see a noticeable improvement, though it really depends on how you define "improvement". You can get cheaper ($300-$500) factory wheels imported from UK dealers, but they won't be much of an upgrade over what you have now. There are a lot of cheap "aero" alloy wheels that are quite heavy but are built with top quality hubs for riders who ride primarily on flat roads at 20+ mph so they roll really well except when the gradient ticks upwards; then they become even worse than your stock wheels. Then you have "climbing" wheels which are typically lighter and "stiffer", though a lot of them come with rider weight restrictions. This is assuming you want regular clinchers.

tagaproject6

rbk_3

Thanks for the advice, fellas.
I think you talked me into sticking with the stock wheels, at least for now.

rbk_3

I think if I am going to spend my money on anything, it is going to bed a pro fitting.

Wallonthefloor

On my bike I upgraded stock "Giant" wheels to "Shimano".. a $200 upgrade and it made a world of difference. Although I do ride hard and those wheels were nearing the end of of their lifetime

loimpact

No.......No.......You definitely need wheels!

Mercury M5 Series - Mercury Wheels

These will....

"make you go faster at less effort all around"

and

"when you get up to speed, the speed just keeps coming. It's like the momentum makes it easier to stay at those higher speeds too!"

Yes, I'm being facetious but this is just another one of the things I was told yesterday. (by 2 owners of said wheels, previous Ksyrium riders) Oh, and they won Eric Marcotte a national championship so maybe you could e the next national champion? (shrug)

dalava

then don't be.