First time building a bike.. SS
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
First time building a bike.. SS
I am going to be building up an All City Big-Block frame to take on all weather conditions, rough city riding and some off road trails. I'm a light rider and have been on track bikes for a few years now and am ready to set-up this as a single speed. The only thing I need help with is picking the parts, I'm not too familiar with the latest and greatest. So the thing I like about this frame is that it will fit 28s or 32s, I'd like to keep it light though. I'm up for any recommendations before ordering and I'll take anything into consideration so thanks if you can help.
Stock for reference, I'm looking to get hoods.
Stock for reference, I'm looking to get hoods.
Last edited by Wallonthefloor; 07-24-17 at 10:58 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Looks like you need some Tektro R539 brakes and Tektro R200A levers. I think some ergo road bars would be a good upgrade, too. The geometry of that frame is pretty awful for off-roading, but let us know how it goes.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863
Bikes: too many of all kinds
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times
in
335 Posts
Single speed forum maybe?
I’ve built up a bike like that. 32mm Conti 4-seasons or Gatorskins are best for that. Road calipers typically won’t spread that wide though, and the brakes rubbing against an inflated Gatorskin (on removal) tears up their “reinforced” sidewalls pretty bad.
Not really off road geometry, but you can do some light duty hardpack stuff. Good geometry for urban bashing where you want your bike to have good reflexes.
You could consider using some flared drops if you want drops. For that build, I think I would stick with traditional flare though. Tat and least a seat post fender for those wet muddy rides.
Wide rims (19mm+ internal) that are tubeless compatible would be good.
I’ve built up a bike like that. 32mm Conti 4-seasons or Gatorskins are best for that. Road calipers typically won’t spread that wide though, and the brakes rubbing against an inflated Gatorskin (on removal) tears up their “reinforced” sidewalls pretty bad.
Not really off road geometry, but you can do some light duty hardpack stuff. Good geometry for urban bashing where you want your bike to have good reflexes.
You could consider using some flared drops if you want drops. For that build, I think I would stick with traditional flare though. Tat and least a seat post fender for those wet muddy rides.
Wide rims (19mm+ internal) that are tubeless compatible would be good.
Last edited by chas58; 07-25-17 at 10:50 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: SD
Posts: 2,745
Bikes: Handsome Fredward, Trek 1.1
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 481 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times
in
47 Posts
You can stuff 32mm tires in there. Tektros with a reach of 47-57mm will do the trick braking-wise. If you do want to ride gravel with it I'd recommend putting some compact road drop handlebars and comfy road levers (SRAM) on and lowering the gearing significantly (like 40:19 or thereabouts).
#6
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
The track bar might not be the best. A traditional road bar with hooded levers will make a world of difference.
I'd recommend front and rear brake but a dummy hood/lever will help even if you don't run a rear brake.
Lots of guys in the Single Speed forum run wide and/or knobby tires on a BB. You may want to post there.
-Tim-
I'd recommend front and rear brake but a dummy hood/lever will help even if you don't run a rear brake.
Lots of guys in the Single Speed forum run wide and/or knobby tires on a BB. You may want to post there.
-Tim-
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
I went with 49:18 and its going to be one bike to rule them all!
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
Now that it's all said and done I have been riding and the one noticeable difference is that I chose a crank length of 165 whereas my other bikes are 170. The seats are all at the same height, and I shouldn't have to raise this one 5mm right?
Last edited by Wallonthefloor; 09-26-17 at 12:10 PM.
#11
I'm doing it wrong.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,875
Bikes: Rivendell Appaloosa, Rivendell Frank Jones Sr., Trek Fuel EX9, Kona Jake the Snake CR, Niner Sir9
Mentioned: 85 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9742 Post(s)
Liked 2,812 Times
in
1,664 Posts
5mm, not cm. When I went from 170 to 165mm cranks I had to adjust my seat position. The shorter crank really helped with a knee pain problem I was having.
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Ok. I am trying to figure out which bikes are hurting my lower back. They were all the same seat height despite the crank length difference.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 7,827
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1872 Post(s)
Liked 692 Times
in
468 Posts
It could very well be saddle tilt or saddle fore-aft positioning, and not the height.
__________________
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
#14
Senior Member
OP, it will clear most of 700x35 not very aggressive knobbies on 17-18mm rims (internal width). I had Kenda Small Block on mine for a while. Tire clearance is very generous.