Fenders? Smaller tire w/fenders? Or larger tire w/o?
what did you use? I used a mouse pad & binder clips
03-15-19, 11:40 AM
#27
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Personally, there's no way I'd not have fenders on my daily rider. It is 100% fact that I stay cleaner and much dryer with fenders. I've ridden without them plenty, and since having nice ones that really wrap around the tire, there's just no comparison when riding on wet roads. I actually tend to go a step further than most and get the fender that hangs down lowest in front and then add a nice big flap to the bottom of it.
I don't really see needing 2" tires if you're on maintained gravel and paved roads. I wouldn't bother with that, and agree with cyccommute that you're just hauling extra weight that you don't need. I've ridden a gravel rail-to-trail Many times on my 700x35c Vittoria Hypers(very smooth road tread) and literally Never had a problem. I'd think a 40mm+ Almotion would be plenty of tire. Run that with some nice full wrap fenders on the Saga(I'm jealous, btw) and you'll have a pretty sweet set-up.
As for the fender disaster pic, I'm not saying it's wrong or a terrible idea to run fenders on a bike with knobby tread, but personally, I would avoid that. I would definitely use a fender with the quick release attachments if I did. The stick has a nice spot on the tire to wedge against and push into your fender/hardware. I've had things get sucked up between my tire and fender a couple times, where you could hear they were squished between the two, but never had anything get jammed up.
I don't really see needing 2" tires if you're on maintained gravel and paved roads. I wouldn't bother with that, and agree with cyccommute that you're just hauling extra weight that you don't need. I've ridden a gravel rail-to-trail Many times on my 700x35c Vittoria Hypers(very smooth road tread) and literally Never had a problem. I'd think a 40mm+ Almotion would be plenty of tire. Run that with some nice full wrap fenders on the Saga(I'm jealous, btw) and you'll have a pretty sweet set-up.
As for the fender disaster pic, I'm not saying it's wrong or a terrible idea to run fenders on a bike with knobby tread, but personally, I would avoid that. I would definitely use a fender with the quick release attachments if I did. The stick has a nice spot on the tire to wedge against and push into your fender/hardware. I've had things get sucked up between my tire and fender a couple times, where you could hear they were squished between the two, but never had anything get jammed up.
03-15-19, 01:36 PM
#28
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03-15-19, 03:02 PM
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03-15-19, 03:26 PM
#31
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03-15-19, 05:03 PM
#32
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Well, I am not sure I am proud of it but I have been experimenting with bikes and set-ups for a long while now. I just turned sixty-six so a long while is pretty accurate! I have more bikes than one possibly should (at 9-10 currently) but that number will decrease soon. And those bikes (all steel) range from older (Trek 720, Raleigh Randonneur) to newer, though still old school in design (Rivendell Hilsen, now the Soma, plus a few others, including a 650b conversion). Oh, and a Brompton! There was actually one point in time where I *almost* had a bike with every tire size (16", 20", 26", 650b, 700c, 27"...) though I know there were some types/sizes missing. Actually, the only one of those missing at the moment is the 20". I like Schwalbe tires but also use Compass/Rene Herse tires and Pasela's on the Trek.
I have done some short touring and exploring over the years but never true long distance, or a months-long self-supported trip. I actually went 4 years or so car-free (and by choice!), 2 1/2 of those in Denver, and was quite proud of that. I broke down and bought a car last year (what I term "the ultimate bike accessory") but we'll see if it stays. I am a good rider, and experienced with more than most, but certainly not to the level that others have done. One thing I need to experiment more with is riding a fully loaded bike, making sure I understand how much that will affect handling, gearing, etc.
I will say, I do completely agree with the comments about bigger not necessarily being better. I surprised myself with some almost accidental testing, moving wheels between bikes and being too lazy to change tires. I won't go into details, as it approaches some level of sacrilege and I need to ride them more. But I will say the math (rotational mass, coefficient of friction, and a lot more things that I don't really know enough about), the math is very real(!) and larger volume tires (or just more supple?) should not be assumed to just be automatically better.
I have done some short touring and exploring over the years but never true long distance, or a months-long self-supported trip. I actually went 4 years or so car-free (and by choice!), 2 1/2 of those in Denver, and was quite proud of that. I broke down and bought a car last year (what I term "the ultimate bike accessory") but we'll see if it stays. I am a good rider, and experienced with more than most, but certainly not to the level that others have done. One thing I need to experiment more with is riding a fully loaded bike, making sure I understand how much that will affect handling, gearing, etc.
I will say, I do completely agree with the comments about bigger not necessarily being better. I surprised myself with some almost accidental testing, moving wheels between bikes and being too lazy to change tires. I won't go into details, as it approaches some level of sacrilege and I need to ride them more. But I will say the math (rotational mass, coefficient of friction, and a lot more things that I don't really know enough about), the math is very real(!) and larger volume tires (or just more supple?) should not be assumed to just be automatically better.
Riding a heavy bike takes a bit getting used to, but no biggie. The main thing is you will be working harder, so you'll be bagged at the end of the day, and you will figure out pretty damn soon if your gearing isnt low enough.
The old estimation of "20 gear inches to 100" is still a pretty good thing to aim for, and as someone about a decade younger than you, do not be shy about putting low gears on your bike, your knees will thank you---really.
have fun mucking about with stuff, and starting to ride with full panniers. Its just a different pace, slower, and you adapt.
03-15-19, 07:23 PM
#33
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I have some of those, they can be bought at an office supply store.
I just use wire, I bend it around the outside of the fender, bend a small section around the inside on each side and just crimp it with pliers. One benefit of both methods is that if the flap gets caught on something, it can pull off without damaging anything else. I like flaps that almost touch the ground when stopped. Of course then it needs to be very flexible. I use MBT inner tubes folded back on them selves and glued together. One layer will just go back to the original shape of the tube. This makes a flap so soft it moves out of the way for snow even. Or water, rolling over logs etc. Like I see in your ride photos. I enjoy your ride photos.
03-15-19, 07:43 PM
#34
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03-16-19, 07:49 AM
#36
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to give you an idea of clearance on my bike, hopefully to avoid stuff jamming.
and this reminds me, I really should move that front fender down a bit, the advantage of it like this is that if I remove my front wheel, the bike can stand on the front rack without the fender getting kinked.
03-16-19, 10:13 AM
#37
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03-16-19, 02:14 PM
#38
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I thought a lot about clearance, wondering about the possibility of potentially riding in mud and debris, so played it safe clearance wise. Also took into considering putting larger and knobbier tires, and also that bike has horizontal dropouts, so this way I'm able to slide the rear wheel out without having to loosen rear fender.
03-22-19, 12:03 AM
#39
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There is a pile of old fenders at the bike coop. I'm going to find a couple of steel ones from a beach cruiser and modify them up to work.
03-22-19, 04:34 AM
#40
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You know, I put that exact fender on my bike. I hate how I can't get the bike stood up on the back wheel, remove goat heads, and this picture just sealed it.There is a pile of old fenders at the bike coop. I'm going to find a couple of steel ones from a beach cruiser and modify them up to work.
I can tip this bike up on it's rear wheel to move it around my basement
Last edited by rumrunn6; 03-22-19 at 04:40 AM.
03-22-19, 07:44 AM
#41
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not sure I understand the connection of that pic & what you wrote. what is preventing you from tipping your bike up? the ground hits the fender? this fender doesn't go down that low in the back. if you;re tipping your bike up so far that the fender is gonna hit the ground maybe you need a smaller fender regardless of material. when I switched from that bike to a 29" MTB I switched fenders but not for your reason. regardless the MTB fender (also plastic) is even higher in the back. also why not just kneel down to grab those goat heads? also you understand that temporary damage was done by a stick getting caught in the spokes & derailer right. also that it folded right back down really easily. I think it's more a testament for how good those fenders are
I can tip this bike up on it's rear wheel to move it around my basement
I can tip this bike up on it's rear wheel to move it around my basement
Your fender solution really isn't much of a solution, either. Yes, it is shorter so it won't drag on the ground but that fender is of questionable efficacy. The rack catches about as much crud as the fender does.
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03-22-19, 08:00 AM
#42
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03-22-19, 10:05 AM
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I understand exactly what CraigMBA is talking about. Along with other issues with fenders, it's one of the less bothersome but still annoying things that I don't like about fenders. I stand my bike on the rear wheel to get it through narrow areas like the sidewalk beside my garage. With regular fenders, I can't tip the bike too far up or the fender drags the ground. It just makes it harder to maneuver the bike.
Your fender solution really isn't much of a solution, either. Yes, it is shorter so it won't drag on the ground but that fender is of questionable efficacy. The rack catches about as much crud as the fender does.
Your fender solution really isn't much of a solution, either. Yes, it is shorter so it won't drag on the ground but that fender is of questionable efficacy. The rack catches about as much crud as the fender does.
03-22-19, 11:08 AM
#44
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how hard would it be for a fabricator to design a mucky nutz /grunge guard type thing that has a wing that acts as a shield for the BB & front gears? I tried doing it with aluminum foil but couldn't figure out how to make something that was rigid enough & that I could attach. my front flap does an OK job (except for that area)
& when it's off, the grunge guard thing gets some use
with the amount of $$ some ppl pay for their bikes, I'd think there's be a market for that kind of protection
& when it's off, the grunge guard thing gets some use
with the amount of $$ some ppl pay for their bikes, I'd think there's be a market for that kind of protection
03-22-19, 11:10 AM
#45
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keeps the rack & trunk cleaner & drier
Last edited by rumrunn6; 03-22-19 at 11:26 AM.
03-22-19, 11:16 AM
#46
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If the daily rider cannot accommodate both fenders and a tire size that you're comfortable with as a daily rider, this is the perfect excuse to buy the fenders and tires you want, and a bike that will fit them.
My road bike doesn't have fenders, but my hybrid is configured with rack, fenders, and two-way pedals. My tires are 32mm GP 4 Season tires. I could easily fit 35 or 38mm tires too, with the same fenders. But I chose the 32mm GP4Season tires because they fit the balance of road performance and comfort I wanted. If the GP4Season came in a 35mm I'd consider going for that instead.
In my experience, if you want to ride the bike through less optimal weather, fenders trump tire size. And there's no substitute. You will get dirty riding a bike through messy roads without fenders. You will stay mostly clean with them. They make all the difference in the world. Tire size is important, but for a daily rider you have to lean toward what will make you more able to use the bike on a daily basis.
My road bike doesn't have fenders, but my hybrid is configured with rack, fenders, and two-way pedals. My tires are 32mm GP 4 Season tires. I could easily fit 35 or 38mm tires too, with the same fenders. But I chose the 32mm GP4Season tires because they fit the balance of road performance and comfort I wanted. If the GP4Season came in a 35mm I'd consider going for that instead.
In my experience, if you want to ride the bike through less optimal weather, fenders trump tire size. And there's no substitute. You will get dirty riding a bike through messy roads without fenders. You will stay mostly clean with them. They make all the difference in the world. Tire size is important, but for a daily rider you have to lean toward what will make you more able to use the bike on a daily basis.
03-22-19, 11:25 AM
#47
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03-22-19, 04:56 PM
#48
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I've come to view fenders in the same category as lights, rear view mirrors, and fluorescent vests -- essential for touring. You never know when it is going to rain, and I am happy avoiding a muddy streak up my back.
The "skinny" tires you are considering sound plenty wide. To me, anything larger than 32 mm tires are monstrously big! (I used to tour on 23 mm tires, then 25, then 28, before eventually graduated to 32s.)
If your bicycle can accommodate those somewhat wide tires and fenders, I think you're good to go.
The "skinny" tires you are considering sound plenty wide. To me, anything larger than 32 mm tires are monstrously big! (I used to tour on 23 mm tires, then 25, then 28, before eventually graduated to 32s.)
If your bicycle can accommodate those somewhat wide tires and fenders, I think you're good to go.
03-23-19, 07:31 AM
#49
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I've come to view fenders in the same category as lights, rear view mirrors, and fluorescent vests -- essential for touring. You never know when it is going to rain, and I am happy avoiding a muddy streak up my back.
The "skinny" tires you are considering sound plenty wide. To me, anything larger than 32 mm tires are monstrously big! (I used to tour on 23 mm tires, then 25, then 28, before eventually graduated to 32s.)
If your bicycle can accommodate those somewhat wide tires and fenders, I think you're good to go.
The "skinny" tires you are considering sound plenty wide. To me, anything larger than 32 mm tires are monstrously big! (I used to tour on 23 mm tires, then 25, then 28, before eventually graduated to 32s.)
If your bicycle can accommodate those somewhat wide tires and fenders, I think you're good to go.
I do like the idea of possibly less protective but still much better than nothing protection strategies, i.e. rack attached tail for the rear rack, a muck guard on the down tube for the front. But that will be the experiment after this one.
03-23-19, 08:16 AM
#50
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I'm a fan of fenders and have bikes that could take a larger tire with out fenders. The qustion i ask my self about maxing out the tire size on a frame is "Can I make it home with a broken spoke?" Leaving sufficient clearence at the chainstays seems to leave enough for a set of fenders.
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