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2016 Fuji Touring tear down/overhaul

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2016 Fuji Touring tear down/overhaul

Old 05-10-20, 05:37 PM
  #1  
Cpn_Crank
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2016 Fuji Touring tear down/overhaul

Iím rebuilding my Fuji touring and just wrote the final spec chart. I want any and all opinions of this build if you wish to share. I also have reasons for why Iíve chosen every part. Some I recycled, others I bought new.

Note that the surly fork was accquired because of a crash repair a couple of years back. It was an amazing addition to the ride quality, and a well- deserved upgrade.

below details the specifications of the build:


Fuji touring rebuild specs

Frame&fork

Frame: 2016 Fuji touring Reynolds 520 chromoly (refinish by West Coast powder coating)
Fork: Surly Cross-check Reynolds 520 chromoly (1 1/8Ē steerer tube)
Braze-on bolts M5 x 18mm Hex
Frame protection All-Mountain Style honeycomb frame guard

Cockpit

Shifter/brake levers Gevenalle CX long pull 10 Speed Rear Indexed or friction 2/3 speed Front Friction Shimano road
Handlebar tape and plugs Supacaz Super Sticky Kush Classic
Headset Cane Creek 40 series w/ Interlok spacers
Bars 2016 Fuji touring 44cm drop
Faceplate bolts M5x 18mm tapered Hex (Blue)
Stem pinch bolts M6 x 20mm tapered hex (silv)

Drivetrain and brakes

Bottom Bracket Deore XT BB MT800
Crankset Deore M591 Hollowtech II Triple 48/36/26
Cassette 11-36 CS-HG500 - 10 speed
Front Derailleur Alivio triple
Rear Derailleur Deore RD M592 Shadow SGS
Pedals PD EH500

Wheel set

Rims (700c) Mavic A319 (rear) A119 (front)
Rear hub Shimano Deore LX
Front hub Shimano HB M525a
Tires Continental Gator hardshell 700c x 35mm
Tubes Continental


thanks for checking this out! Should be done by June, due to some delays in shipping and production. putting it together is the easy part, waiting, not so much Iíll post pics when itís all built

i hope for this thread to generate helpful discussion to aide people who might be doing the same thing

visit the Fuji website to see the stock version.
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Old 05-10-20, 05:53 PM
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Welcome aboard BF. I think your Fuji is a great bargain in touring bikes. Let us know how it turns out for you. BTW, is it made in China or Taiwan (or?).
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Old 05-10-20, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by prairiepedaler View Post
Welcome aboard BF. I think your Fuji is a great bargain in touring bikes. Let us know how it turns out for you. BTW, is it made in China or Taiwan (or?).
Thank you! So far this is a wonderful bike, and has needed very little maintenance in 3 years and is a very reactive, springy ride. Itís made in Taichung, Taiwan, my friend.
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Old 05-11-20, 06:31 AM
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I am unclear about what you are asking and what the current status is. But my only comment would be that if the front wheel has not yet been built, if you might consider a dynohub some day, get it now. The cost is simply adding a dynohub, skewer, and subtracting the regular hub cost. But to upgrade later means adding a hub cost, spokes costs, possibly a wheel build fee, and maybe cost of a rim. But if the front wheel is already a complete wheel, then the decision has already been made before now as to which hub you will have.
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Old 05-11-20, 09:56 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
I am unclear about what you are asking and what the current status is. But my only comment would be that if the front wheel has not yet been built, if you might consider a dynohub some day, get it now. The cost is simply adding a dynohub, skewer, and subtracting the regular hub cost. But to upgrade later means adding a hub cost, spokes costs, possibly a wheel build fee, and maybe cost of a rim. But if the front wheel is already a complete wheel, then the decision has already been made before now as to which hub you will have.
actually, Iím happy you mentioned that! The front going on there is just a carryover. I plan to have a matching wheel in the front someday and will have one built.

the status of the bike itself: the frame has been sand blasted and powder coated, and treated internally with rust inhibitor. As of right now, I am waiting on a bottom bracket tool and a headset to get to my LBS on order, and various other parts. The Gevenalle shifters should arrive at the end of May.

i estimate the headset will be pressed this weekend. Once thatís done, Iíll torque-in the BB and crank. The following week, Iíll be receiving the Interlok spacers in the mail. Once I do, that Fork will finally go in, and brakes will be installed onto the bosses and derailleurs will be mounted. Then just to wait for those shiny new shifter units

It didnít even occur to me that I could put a Dynamo on the bike, but it really makes Perfect sense for touring. Thank you for the idea. Iím going to do that once I have the money!!!

Last edited by Cpn_Crank; 05-11-20 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 05-14-20, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
I am unclear about what you are asking and what the current status is. But my only comment would be that if the front wheel has not yet been built, if you might consider a dynohub some day, get it now. The cost is simply adding a dynohub, skewer, and subtracting the regular hub cost. But to upgrade later means adding a hub cost, spokes costs, possibly a wheel build fee, and maybe cost of a rim. But if the front wheel is already a complete wheel, then the decision has already been made before now as to which hub you will have.
update: I have been looking for a matching a319 Mavic to put on the front. Thanks to your advice, my scope was broadened, resulting in FINDING THE WHEEL (from a legit vendor, at that). Not only that, but it is built with a shimano DH3N72 Dynamo hub!

The best part- ONLY 135 dollars! Less than it costs for the standard Deore Lx hub, less than what I paid for my rear wheel in 2014!

I didnít even really think to incorporate that into my build and never thought of using one. So when browsing wheels previously, it would have never caught my attention.

and with new wheels comes... NEW TIRES. I went with the Schwalbe marathon over the gator hard-skins. After much research and deliberation.

Just curious as to which dynohub you run and what youíve got hooked to it. Bonus points if you include your tires (what kind, size, etc).
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Old 05-14-20, 05:37 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Cpn_Crank View Post
... ...
Just curious as to which dynohub you run and what youíve got hooked to it. Bonus points if you include your tires (what kind, size, etc).
I bought my first dynohub in 2013, SP PV-8. At that time I liked what the write ups I saw from Europe said about it and decided to try it. Nobody in USA sold them so i had mine shipped from Taiwan. Bought my second new dynohub in 2017, bought the same hub again. One of those is on a 26 inch wheel and one on a 700c wheel.

There is a local bike charity, I also bought a used wheel with a Shimano hub, might be the same one you are getting. I did not like the rim on that wheel, I switched to a Velocity Dyad. That is on my light touring bike.

For riding around home I put dyno powered lights on the bike. But for touring the primary use of the hub is for charging up batteries for my GPS, taillights, etc.

Around home, I have bikes with several different different lights, the low budget one that I do like is an B&M IQ-XS. It is pretty robust and has a nice headlight beam. Initially I was using battery powered taillights exclusively, now I mostly rely on battery lights but have some dyno powered taillights too. If you are unaware of this, dyno powered tailights do not have a flashing mode and in daytime I often have a flashing taillight on. Dyno powered taillights are designed to conform to German law and they do not allow flashing taillights on bikes.

Charging batteries on tour, I use a Sinewave Revolution which cost almost as much as your new wheel. That works well to charge up power banks, but it does not have a built in pass through cache battery, so it does not work that well to directly charge some devices.

I have some other stuff too, I am only hitting the high points here.

What you might want to do is just wait a while on the lights and maybe a USB charger, you can ride with that wheel without it plugged into anything. That would give you time to complete the bike and focus on your new re-build. Then add the other stuff when you have more time to focus on that.

Dynohubs do not come with skewers, so your new wheel might or might not have a skewer. I usually use a bolt on skewer that uses a 5mm allen wrench to open instead of a quick release on my dynohub wheels. My thinking is that a thief is an opportunist and is unlikely to have a 5mm allen wrench in their pocket. There are skewers that use a special key but I do not want one that has a key I might lose, instead I want something simple that my multi-tool will open. I keep a 5mm allen wrench with my spare tube to make sure I can change a flat if I have to.

I run a wide variety of tires, I have dynohubs on my rando bike and two touring bikes, and on those bikes I use different tires for different situations. The Schwalbe Marathon is a series of tires, there is the plain Marathon (with Greenguard) but many of their tires have the word Marathon. I think they are all good. For example, in winter I have some Schwalbe Marathon Winters that are studded tires, so using the work Marathon can be a bit ambiguous. If I am talking about the plain Marathon, I always add (with Greenguard) to specify which of their Marathons I mean.
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Old 05-14-20, 07:58 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Cpn_Crank View Post
Just curious as to which dynohub you run and what youíve got hooked to it. Bonus points if you include your tires (what kind, size, etc).
I've been running a Shimano dyno hub (DH3N72 or 80) for eight or nine years now, paired up with a B&M IQ-X, upgraded from an earlier B&M. I've also got a Schmidt SON (previous version) running with an eDelux light, about a year newer. Both are still working quite well.

Tires? Gatorskin and Panaracer, at the moment. Or is one a Grand Prix 5000? I'll have to check sometime...
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Old 05-14-20, 02:39 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by pdlamb View Post
I've been running a Shimano dyno hub (DH3N72 or 80) for eight or nine years now, paired up with a B&M IQ-X, upgraded from an earlier B&M. I've also got a Schmidt SON (previous version) running with an eDelux light, about a year newer. Both are still working quite well.

Tires? Gatorskin and Panaracer, at the moment. Or is one a Grand Prix 5000? I'll have to check sometime...
ahh good to know! As I (we?) live in North America, I find it difficult to obtain info about these Dynos. Itís opened a whole new (positive) can of worms for me and has captured my interest. 8 or 9 years!!?? Thatís a long time! Do you find the bearings to be easily serviced? And do they come well adjusted and greased from the factory or will I need to open it up/adjust the preload before use? I feel like I have a pretty good, detailed eye for setting bearing preload.

I had no idea that dynos were actually a standard thing on older bikes until this thread was created. It makes sense, because obviously, there was no solid battery tech to power lights back in the day. I canít believe in my 10 years of serious cycling, These hubs were not on my radar.

this brings a question: where the HECK can I find a well performing, relatively affordable dynamo lighting/ charging system (vendors) in the United States?
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Old 05-15-20, 07:44 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Cpn_Crank View Post
Do you find the bearings to be easily serviced? And do they come well adjusted and greased from the factory or will I need to open it up/adjust the preload before use? I feel like I have a pretty good, detailed eye for setting bearing preload.
Don't touch that dial! You don't need to open up a dyno hub, and you don't want to, either! A dyno may feel a bit "notchy" when you first ride one -- mine had what felt like a resonance at 15-17 mph, and the other around 17-18 mph -- but that's not a maladjusted hub, that's the effects of the magnetic poles in the hubs. It's been suggested these are actually resonances in the lightweight forks (although, how you call the beefy touring fork on my bike lightweight, I don't understand).

There's a bunch of fiddly connections that are easy to break if you open up a dyno hub. The best (and sometimes, only) way to fix that is to send it back to the manufacturer for rebuild or replacement.

But both my wheels came ready to run, and I haven't touched anything (except tightening loose spokes) since I got them. The Shimano has some 40,000 trouble-free miles on it, the SON over 20,000 miles (I had to look those up).

this brings a question: where the HECK can I find a well performing, relatively affordable dynamo lighting/ charging system (vendors) in the United States?
Keep your eyes open. Peter White Cycles is the U.S. importer for Schmidt, and is probably the definitive source for all things dyno in this country. I lucked out, twice. Velo-Orange had dyno wheels already built up with the Shimano, and I bought one on clearance. I found a small builder with a stock of the older Schmidt hubs when they came out with newer models, and bought a wheel for about the price of the SON hub alone. Early spring is the best time to look for deals. You can also order pretty inexpensive wheels from Europe, but I hear shipping is an issue right now.
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Old 05-15-20, 11:03 AM
  #11  
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I agree with everything that PDLamb said. Peter White has a ton of very good information on his website. He also is the distributor for B&M and possibly other brands for USA.

The hub when you first pick it up, you can't turn the axle with your fingers because of the magnets. That does not mean it is a bad hub. On SP, they have cartridge bearings, I suspect the same for Son. Shimano I think has cartridge on one side. I would never consider openning up a hub on my own until after warranty expired.

I bought a few items on-line in USA and one light in a local store, but most of what I bought for dyno lighting I bought from Germany. Shipping was expensive, but the prices were great. I bought from Bike24 and I might have also bought from Starbike. But if you do not know exactly what you want, you might be best off buying from a USA seller for better support. I pretty much knew what I wanted and what I was going to get. I had a warranty issue and Peter White wanted to see my reciept to make sure it was in the warranty period and possilby to verify it was from a USA seller where he was the distributor, fortunately that was on a taillight that I bought at a local shop that bought it from Peter White, so I had the receipt.

Shipping right now from Europe could be slow. A lot of stuff is shipped on passenger air craft and a lot of passenger aircraft are not flying right now. I ordered something from Europe in March, received it about a week ago.

My Sinewave Revolution I bought from Sinewave.

More on why you do not want to try to open up a dyno hub here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/electroni...placement.html

Dynohubs have been around for many decades. I worked in a bike shop in the 70s, we had one model of Raleigh that had a Sturmey Archer hub. I have heard that dynohub is trademarked to only Sturmey Archer, but everybody uses that term for all such hubs.

But, I did not decide to get a dynohub until I decided I wanted it for battery charging. For lighting, I would have stayed with batteries. But when I built up another touring bike in 2013, by then I had a couple devices that were charged by USB so it made sense to me then.

If you are in a community where a lot of people commute by bike, you might be lucky to find a local store sells this stuff too. I live in Madison WI, there is one store that stocks some dyno powered lighting stuff, but the other stores pretty much are clueless about it. The store that stocks it sells a lot of stuff to commuters.
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Old 05-15-20, 11:09 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by pdlamb View Post
Don't touch that dial! You don't need to open up a dyno hub, and you don't want to, either! A dyno may feel a bit "notchy" when you first ride one -- mine had what felt like a resonance at 15-17 mph, and the other around 17-18 mph -- but that's not a maladjusted hub, that's the effects of the magnetic poles in the hubs. It's been suggested these are actually resonances in the lightweight forks (although, how you call the beefy touring fork on my bike lightweight, I don't understand).

There's a bunch of fiddly connections that are easy to break if you open up a dyno hub. The best (and sometimes, only) way to fix that is to send it back to the manufacturer for rebuild or replacement.

But both my wheels came ready to run, and I haven't touched anything (except tightening loose spokes) since I got them. The Shimano has some 40,000 trouble-free miles on it, the SON over 20,000 miles (I had to look those up).



Keep your eyes open. Peter White Cycles is the U.S. importer for Schmidt, and is probably the definitive source for all things dyno in this country. I lucked out, twice. Velo-Orange had dyno wheels already built up with the Shimano, and I bought one on clearance. I found a small builder with a stock of the older Schmidt hubs when they came out with newer models, and bought a wheel for about the price of the SON hub alone. Early spring is the best time to look for deals. You can also order pretty inexpensive wheels from Europe, but I hear shipping is an issue right now.
ahh thank you for the sound advice! Without that info, I would have tinkered for sure since I am used to Having standard hubs arrive underpacked and maladjusted. I was looking at Peter white, they seem to have the best explanation of compatibility and seem to specialize in setting up the whole system the way you want it.

im excited! The wheel I ordered online on ďbikeinnĒ was a Mavic A319, marked ambiguously on their website as 28Ē-700 (130 usd). Although Iím fairly certain that this means it is what I know as a 700c: if it isnít, Iíll just take the hub (which costs about 100 dollars by itself), and just lace it to a correctly sized Mavic a319 with better spokes. Itís really a win-win, the way I see it, as many comparable wheels run well above the 200usd range. This more than Iíd be paying to recieve this wheel and lace that hub to a new, correctly sized rim myself.
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Old 05-15-20, 11:28 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Cpn_Crank View Post
...
im excited! The wheel I ordered online on ďbikeinnĒ was a Mavic A319, marked ambiguously on their website as 28Ē-700 (130 usd). Although Iím fairly certain that this means it is what I know as a 700c: if it isnít, Iíll just take the hub (which costs about 100 dollars by itself), and just lace it to a correctly sized Mavic a319 with better spokes. Itís really a win-win, the way I see it, as many comparable wheels run well above the 200usd range. This more than Iíd be paying to recieve this wheel and lace that hub to a new, correctly sized rim myself.
I mentioned above that shipping from Europe can be slow right now, the package I cited where I ordered it in March and received it in May was from Bike Inn. Hopefully they will have figured out a better way to ship when a lot of passenger aircraft are grounded.
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Old 05-15-20, 11:43 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
I mentioned above that shipping from Europe can be slow right now, the package I cited where I ordered it in March and received it in May was from Bike Inn. Hopefully they will have figured out a better way to ship when a lot of passenger aircraft are grounded.
good to know, misleading info is the worst info. Until then, I have another front wheel to hold me over.
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Old 05-19-20, 12:08 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Cpn_Crank View Post
update: I have been looking for a matching a319 Mavic to put on the front. Thanks to your advice, my scope was broadened, resulting in FINDING THE WHEEL (from a legit vendor, at that). Not only that, but it is built with a shimano DH3N72 Dynamo hub!

The best part- ONLY 135 dollars! Less than it costs for the standard Deore Lx hub, less than what I paid for my rear wheel in 2014!

I didnít even really think to incorporate that into my build and never thought of using one. So when browsing wheels previously, it would have never caught my attention.

and with new wheels comes... NEW TIRES. I went with the Schwalbe marathon over the gator hard-skins. After much research and deliberation.

Just curious as to which dynohub you run and what youíve got hooked to it. Bonus points if you include your tires (what kind, size, etc).

The first dynamo hub I got was a Shutter Precision for my Single Speed/Fixed Gear RandoCross FunTime Machine running Supernova front and rear lights. Then for my touring bike I got a SON hub because I wasn't going to accept anything less and that is running Busch and MŁller lights and a Sinewave top cap charger. I got into it by saying "f it I gotta just do it" I had briefly considered it in the past and said "naw too much weight" even on my new touring bike I said that (which obviously I later reneged on) but I guess I had seen some Randonuerring bikes and though that it is pretty cool maybe I should try it and within one ride I was hooked.

I have a Kasai hub for my hybrid/commuter bike (at the time I got it they were out of SP and when I talked with them they were like this is the same quality and price and I said okey doke) and am planning on getting another SON hub for my upcoming gravel build and then will have 4 dynamo bikes. Honestly I would happily go SON on all the bikes but the SP was a me wanting to try it and being able to order through our normal distributors and the hub for my hybrid was simply to hit a lower price point because even though the bike has some top end parts it is a budget build as a lot of those parts are from the bin or given to me. Though I will say I haven't yet had issues with my SP hub.

The touring and SS/FG RCFTM are both running Challenge Gravel Grinder tires with the touring going with the vulcanized version 700x38 and the SS/FG RCFTM getting the pro version which is an open tubular design in 700x36.

If I you haven't gathered yet, dynamos are awesome and a lot more people should have them. I was hesitant at first because I am dumb but you shouldn't make those mistakes.
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Old 06-06-20, 02:16 AM
  #16  
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Updates on some stuff!

Originally Posted by Cpn_Crank View Post
Iím rebuilding my Fuji touring and just wrote the final spec chart. I want any and all opinions of this build if you wish to share. I also have reasons for why Iíve chosen every part. Some I recycled, others I bought new.

Note that the surly fork was accquired because of a crash repair a couple of years back. It was an amazing addition to the ride quality, and a well- deserved upgrade.

below details the specifications of the build:


Fuji touring rebuild specs

Frame&fork

Frame: 2016 Fuji touring Reynolds 520 chromoly (refinish by West Coast powder coating)
Fork: Surly Cross-check Reynolds 520 chromoly (1 1/8Ē steerer tube)
Braze-on bolts M5 x 18mm Hex
Frame protection All-Mountain Style honeycomb frame guard

Cockpit

Shifter/brake levers Gevenalle CX long pull 10 Speed Rear Indexed or friction 2/3 speed Front Friction Shimano road
Handlebar tape and plugs Supacaz Super Sticky Kush Classic
Headset Cane Creek 40 series w/ Interlok spacers
Bars 2016 Fuji touring 44cm drop
Faceplate bolts M5x 18mm tapered Hex (Blue)
Stem pinch bolts M6 x 20mm tapered hex (silv)

Drivetrain and brakes

Bottom Bracket Deore XT BB MT800
Crankset Deore M591 Hollowtech II Triple 48/36/26
Cassette 11-36 CS-HG500 - 10 speed
Front Derailleur Alivio triple
Rear Derailleur Deore RD M592 Shadow SGS
Pedals PD EH500

Wheel set

Rims (700c) Mavic A319 (rear) A119 (front)
Rear hub Shimano Deore LX
Front hub Shimano HB M525a
Tires Continental Gator hardshell 700c x 35mm
Tubes Continental


thanks for checking this out! Should be done by June, due to some delays in shipping and production. putting it together is the easy part, waiting, not so much Iíll post pics when itís all built

i hope for this thread to generate helpful discussion to aide people who might be doing the same thing

visit the Fuji website to see the stock version.
Quite a bit has changed here. Below are the things Iíve changed:



Selle Italia saddle

Dual compound brakes with shimano br t4000 v brakes up front, and deore v brakes in the rear.

Sine wave dynamo lights and B&M taillight with brake light. Hooked it up to the wheel for a little test, and they work fantastically!

First wheel Iíve built. Laced a Mavic a319 (to match my rear wheel. finally, a matching wheel set) to a shimano DH 3N72 Dynamo hub, using wheelsmith double butted spokes and brass nipples soaked in boiled linseed oil.

Just wanted to see it on two wheels. So I threw on the old front wheel (before I built the new wheel). Instead of conti gatorskin hardshells, Iím using Schwalbe Marathon GG 700c x 37 mm

just waiting on a pair of delayed Gevenalle Shifters to finish this thing up! See anything wrong so far that I should have my attention on?

Last edited by Cpn_Crank; 06-06-20 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 06-06-20, 05:17 AM
  #17  
Tourist in MSN
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Have you thought about fenders? I am not familiar with your frame, thus i do not know if fenders would work with your tire size.
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Old 06-06-20, 09:13 AM
  #18  
Cpn_Crank
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
Have you thought about fenders? I am not familiar with your frame, thus i do not know if fenders would work with your tire size.
yes! Iíve thought about fenders. The clearance would be tight, but they will fit. I do like the idea of a clean drivetrain. If I were to get some, Iíd get something plastic and full coverage. ( I thing sks longboard comes to mind first and they make the most sense) any suggestions or do you have any specific ones in mind?
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Old 06-06-20, 12:31 PM
  #19  
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No specific ones in mind, have Bontrager, SKS, Zefal and Planet Bike ones on several of my bikes.

I do not use them if I think the clearance is tight however. I use some clip on Race Blade XL ones on my road bike.
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Old 06-06-20, 03:07 PM
  #20  
Cpn_Crank
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
No specific ones in mind, have Bontrager, SKS, Zefal and Planet Bike ones on several of my bikes.

I do not use them if I think the clearance is tight however. I use some clip on Race Blade XL ones on my road bike.
ahh so they are pretty much all effective to some degree and there arenít many choices. But you make a point. My clearance is pretty tight on this one, actually. Thereís been toe overlap since day one. Perhaps Iíll use SKS Velo 47 trekking clip on ones.
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Old 06-06-20, 05:32 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Cpn_Crank View Post
ahh so they are pretty much all effective to some degree and there arenít many choices. But you make a point. My clearance is pretty tight on this one, actually. Thereís been toe overlap since day one. Perhaps Iíll use SKS Velo 47 trekking clip on ones.
All of my 700c bikes have toe overlap with fenders, but not without fenders. I think that bike frame designers never use fenders and therefore don't design or plan for them. But all of my 26 inch bikes do not have toe overlap, even when I use fenders.
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Old 06-06-20, 08:52 PM
  #22  
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The powder coat looks nice! I haven't tried dyno hubs but reviews are so good it seems totally logical to include with a new build. For the fenders, why not try the full-coverage ones & see how it goes? Many folks say it's not a big problem to live with a bit of toe-fender overlap.
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Old 06-06-20, 09:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DropBarFan View Post
The powder coat looks nice! I haven't tried dyno hubs but reviews are so good it seems totally logical to include with a new build. For the fenders, why not try the full-coverage ones & see how it goes? Many folks say it's not a big problem to live with a bit of toe-fender overlap.
yeah Iím thinking of going that way. The overlap doesnít bug me all that much and Iíll live with that if it means a clean drivetrain and not-so-soggy nuts.
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Old 06-07-20, 08:50 PM
  #24  
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I have gotten used to toe overlap to some degree. It bothers me more when touring because when I start out from a stop, with a heavier bike that has weight on the front rack, my steering is slow and so is my acceleration. But it has never caused me to fall or anything like that. Just an irritant.
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Old 06-08-20, 01:44 PM
  #25  
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I now have 3 bikes with Schmidt dynamo hubs the spade lug power connections are much more solid than the folded over wire type, plug.

Like SP & Shimano.. do..
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