Replacement Spokes
#1
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Thread Starter
Replacement Spokes
I’ve experienced quite the misfortune with spokes lately. My LBS re-laced a pair of DT Swiss R460 wheels with the 350 hubs and I’ve snapped 2 spokes on the rear in less than 500 miles. Since this appears to be an issue for me, I’d like to order a pack of spokes and nipples so that I can replace them myself. I’m trying to determine what type and length I need. I’m pretty sure mine are the steel round 2mm. The spokes on the cassette side of the hub cross while the other side is direct pull. Not sure if that matters for length.
#3
Clark W. Griswold
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So if you are continuously breaking spokes that is a sign that wheel is failing and has issues that will be chased until you decide to give up. If you are regularly breaking spokes that could be a sign of a poorly built wheel or a wheel that just can't handle your weight or power or both and you might want to have someone competent build something stronger or relace this one as a 2x wheel at least if it has enough spokes. Radial lacing on a rear wheel even on the NDS is not ideal. It can be done for a really lightweight rider who is gentle on equipment but it doesn't sound like that is working well for you.
You can certainly just measure your spokes and order more and go around the wheel replacing spokes all the time but I wouldn't let a customer do that it is just silly unless it were some super rare rim and hub that you cannot find anywhere and you are dead set on keeping it for some reason I would just have it rebuilt with at least 2x using brass Secure Lock or Pro Lock nipples (or whatever locking nipples your favorite spoke maker has or drop some spoke freeze in while building) and double or triple butted spokes. I would go to Sugar Wheelworks or Peter White or Bill Mould or some well respected wheel builder who really knows their stuff and have them build it and maybe also make suggestions giving them all the info you have given here.
You can certainly just measure your spokes and order more and go around the wheel replacing spokes all the time but I wouldn't let a customer do that it is just silly unless it were some super rare rim and hub that you cannot find anywhere and you are dead set on keeping it for some reason I would just have it rebuilt with at least 2x using brass Secure Lock or Pro Lock nipples (or whatever locking nipples your favorite spoke maker has or drop some spoke freeze in while building) and double or triple butted spokes. I would go to Sugar Wheelworks or Peter White or Bill Mould or some well respected wheel builder who really knows their stuff and have them build it and maybe also make suggestions giving them all the info you have given here.
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#4
Senior Member
If you've had problems that early in a wheel build, possibly your wheels aren't tensioned properly. Either they weren't stress relieved or something moved if they were built with proper tension. Have a pro retrue and tension when the new spokes are installed.
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I'd go to the prowheelbuilder site. They have a calculator full of various hub models, rims etc, Plug in the models and most times, it will give you the correct spoke lengths.
I have had local bike shops jack me by giving me incorrect spoke lengths. When you're a newb, you don't realize it till the spokes keep breaking, I've found spokes that shop has put in where half the threads are showing. Other times, they have substituted the DT Swiss I ordered with a few no name spokes I couldn't even identify after breaking. MIGHT even be the reason the spokes are breaking immediately after the shop re laced the wheels with new spokes. Happen to me and like the OP, I gave it a try and never looked back. 20,000+ miles vs 500? No brainer. I have actually had one wheel built at the shop that didn't last the first 20 miles of a 40 mile ride.
I have had local bike shops jack me by giving me incorrect spoke lengths. When you're a newb, you don't realize it till the spokes keep breaking, I've found spokes that shop has put in where half the threads are showing. Other times, they have substituted the DT Swiss I ordered with a few no name spokes I couldn't even identify after breaking. MIGHT even be the reason the spokes are breaking immediately after the shop re laced the wheels with new spokes. Happen to me and like the OP, I gave it a try and never looked back. 20,000+ miles vs 500? No brainer. I have actually had one wheel built at the shop that didn't last the first 20 miles of a 40 mile ride.
#6
Senior Member
I've been riding some 40+ years since I've broken a spoke. Even back in the old days 45+ years ago, it was usually either crash damage or more often it was the spoke that my odometer 'clicker' pin was attached to...
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#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I buy my spokes here when I build my wheels. There is an online calculator and I believe the peeps will help you if you need parts and advice. I ended up buying spokes here a few times seeing the local bike shops don't have much in the way of stock and they want to "order" spokes for me for a fee.
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#8
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On my short lunch ride today, I broke yet another; this time on the front wheel. I was coasting when it snapped. Something is fundamentally wrong with that.
I took the opportunity to measure the spoke and got 270mm. It appears to have snapped right at the first thread. So, should I assume that they are actually 274mm?
I was incorrect with my terminology in my OP. The rear wheel is 2x on the DS and radial on the NDS with 24 spokes total.
I've been considering the SuperTeam 50mm carbon wheels for a while. A friend of mine bought them less than a year ago and loves them and they seem like a solid buy.
In the meantime, is it worth buying a pricey set of the DT Swiss Champion 2.0 to replace on my current wheels?
#9
Junior Member
I agree with the comments above that something is wrong with those wheels or their build if you are breaking spokes that frequently.
A few years ago I got my first good (for me) road bike in many years. The bike was used and has H plus Son rims with Sapim CX Ray spokes. After riding less than 1000 miles I noticed a broken spoke on the front wheel - broken at the first thread. As I looked closer at the wheel I realized that a number of spokes must have been previously replaced since they were straight gage round or butted spokes (rather than CXRays). Further investigation revealed that the rims are drilled with the spoke holes at a slight angle so the spoke has a straight path to the hub flange. However, the wheel was laced with the hole “pointing” to the opposite hub flange. This puts the spoke in bending as the spoke tension attempts to straighten out the misalignment and sets up a classic fatigue case for failure at the first thread (Kt) stress riser. Since all the spokes likely had fatigue damage, I replaces all the spokes and re-laced the wheel properly. Nearly 10,000 miles later the wheel has required no additional attention.
This may not be your problem but might be worth checking.
A few years ago I got my first good (for me) road bike in many years. The bike was used and has H plus Son rims with Sapim CX Ray spokes. After riding less than 1000 miles I noticed a broken spoke on the front wheel - broken at the first thread. As I looked closer at the wheel I realized that a number of spokes must have been previously replaced since they were straight gage round or butted spokes (rather than CXRays). Further investigation revealed that the rims are drilled with the spoke holes at a slight angle so the spoke has a straight path to the hub flange. However, the wheel was laced with the hole “pointing” to the opposite hub flange. This puts the spoke in bending as the spoke tension attempts to straighten out the misalignment and sets up a classic fatigue case for failure at the first thread (Kt) stress riser. Since all the spokes likely had fatigue damage, I replaces all the spokes and re-laced the wheel properly. Nearly 10,000 miles later the wheel has required no additional attention.
This may not be your problem but might be worth checking.
Last edited by Hank195; 04-23-21 at 07:31 AM.
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#10
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Thread Starter
Further investigation revealed that the rims are drilled with the spoke holes at a slight angle so the spoke has a straight path to the hub flange. However, the wheel was laced with the hole “pointing” to the opposite hub flange. This puts the spoke in bending as the spoke tension attempts to straighten out the misalignment and sets up a classic fatigue case for failure
Last edited by croebuck; 04-25-21 at 02:11 PM.
#11
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Different wheels, same problem, one thing in common=the shop. I'm hoping the spoke you just replaced lasts a long time just to prove a point (and for your riding pleasure). Good luck,
#12
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I hate to draw that conclusion because I trust my LBS and I enjoy supporting their business but hopefully I have better luck with these. I need to buy a truing stand and learn how to do it myself.
#13
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I made me a hoky truing stand out of a couple of 2x4's, some metal strapping to hold the wheel, and stiff wire for a flexible gauge to run along side the rim. I measure for offsetting and so far I've had really good luck. Of course, I've always been able to use an old spoke for measurements before ordering a set of spokes and the thought of building a wheel from scratch with a new hub and new spokes scares the bejeebies out of me. I just know that no matter how much research I do I'll get the wrong length spokes. Good luck,