DropBarFan

LHT's have long top tube & are usually ridden w/drop bars--so how much does testing an LHT apply to your choice in custom upright tourer? Yes, it's good to try different bikes just for reference. I'm a bit confused on the switch from looking at custom upright bike to value-priced production model. I have nothing against cheaper bikes--if I was going to get an upright tourer I might go for an older hardtail MTB frame. My old Specialized Rockhopper has a very smooth ride, double-eyelets on front & rear dropouts etc. Room (obviously) for wide tires. Combining used/new components such a setup would be thrifty, strong & comfortable IMO. Lot's of folks tour on such rigs.

rawklobster

It was just a test ride.... No commitment. I think it was because of the numerous posts by those who swear by drops, and even a fellow colleague who has toured and suggested drops, adding, "I know what I'm talking about." I originally rode a 54cm which was awful, and I immediately felt mor pressure on my hands that I knew could be sustained for more than 10 minutes let alone 100km. I was already at the shop testing the Raleigh, so I thought, why not? Maybe I *could* discover that the Surly's less upright position would be compatible. Now, I hardly gave it a chance, but between the two, for a couple slow round the block test rides, I found that I definitely like the more upright position.

Also, I am hoping to provide measurements of a bike or two I have ridden to Independent Fabrication and telling them what I like and what I didn't like. The Raleigh was proof enough for me that I do need to have a little bit of pressure on my hands, but will manage on long tours. My Pashley and Brompton are so far from the geometry I will end up with, so they aren't the best candidates, but I'll send them that info too. Ultimately, I thought I would buy the Raleigh, but, while I enjoyed riding it (it was *fun* to ride) I didn't feel I had to buy it and put some serious time on it to know that a bike with similar geometry will work for me. I'll try a couple of long distance rides with the Pashley and Brompton just to see, and share what I like and didn't like with the frame builder as well. but I have a feeling they will simply take my measurements, ride feel preferences, and design it from there. They also consider riding style. I've chosen; Long Recreational; Short-Mid Distance; Long distance tours; Mile/day = 60; Miles/week = 400; Coast through corners; Usually clime seated; Prefer Soft Ride; Toe Overlap = No. Steering Neutral. Drivetrain Neutral between compliance and rigid. Comfort all the way Compliant between compliant and rigid.

So, I have never deviated from the custom upright... Just contemplating buying a "test" bike on the end-of-the-season-cheap and the selling it after putting in some miles. But as I've mentioned... I've decided not to do that.

I almost bought a Specialized Stump Jumper in the mid-90s. I ended up getting a much steeper geometry KHS Comp which I regretted buying. I think the Stump Jumper was way more comfortable. A regret that has had me cautious ever since!

DropBarFan

It's almost kinda funny how much folks are more comfortable with either drops or uprights. I guess it's mostly due to what one has become used to over years of biking. Ideally we'd see more production touring bikes with front/rear elastomer so that handlebar/frame/tire choice would not be dictated by comfort needs.

fietsbob

Trekking bars are a fine alternate to straight bars with bar ends , and drop bars..

Plus they are compatible with my Rohloff grip shifters..

And MTB brakes.. FWIW a picture ..











....

Mikarad

I use a Salsa Marrakesh 57cm, I have a 31" inseam length. so the frame is a bit big for me. Can still stand over the top tube. This allows me to lower the seat a bit and have a higher bar height. I need this because I have arthritis in my neck and shoulder. As well as old injury issues with my shoulder. Can't ride in an aggressive position anymore. I currently use an adjustable stem to tweak the height and reach of the bar. I have ridden this set up now since Nov/17, 2000Km, with no significant issues. I'm planning on some long tours in the near future. Doing a 7 day this June to figure out any issues, for longer tours.
I have come across a unique handle bar by Jones bikes. The H-bar. I am very curious to try it. pricey bar though.

Trevtassie

Yeah, they are good. Recommend using them with the Ergon GC1 grips and a wide ass leather saddle like one of the Brooks ones... Like riding a lounge chair, but with the option to stretch out and get a bit aero.

nickw

Keep in mind, playing around on a bike in a parking lot on a test ride does nothing to indicate long-distant comfort. In my experience if a bike is instantly comfortable, even while commuting 10 miles, it’s generally not that comfortable after 3-4 hours +, particular not comfortable after 2-3 consecutive days. I’ve always found a lower position (bars just below saddle) is about right for long term comfort and a balanced fit. It takes me a couple hours for my body to loosen up a bit and meld with the bike, but am good to go after that.

I used Jones bars for an 8 day tour down the PCH, worked great for commuting, good the first couple days on the tour but then my wrists and hand started killing me. This was on a LHT.

It can also highly depend on where you are touring. For a lot of climbs a lower setup tends to work better since you can get lower over the front and have a more balanced setup. Most bike ‘fits’ are done in a level setup, raise up the front of the bike during a long climb and your fit is compromised.

skookum

I have a Jones Plus, set up for off pavement touring. The Jones bar works really well on this bike. It is a more upright position, comfortable for old guys like me. The more erect position is a handicap in a head wind, you need to be able to get down out of the wind.

The Jones bar doesn't have a position for the hands that leaves the wrists vertical, I find that a bit of a problem.
It works well for an upright riding position, less well for a lower, against the wind position. It also lacks some hand positions, so I wouldn't recommend it for anybody without trying it first.

nickw

Yeah exactly, moving wrists 90 degrees is a welcome relief.

skookum

I would give the Jones bar (on a Jones bike) 80%. You might be able to add some bar ends or something to give you a better hand position. And there is always the Jones gnarwal for a more aerodynamic position. I have not tried it.

The VO crazy bar might be better, I have one on my Thorn, it looks goofy but works well.

stringsonbikes

Also look at surly Moloko bars. Similar to the crazy bars but with more room for the controls. I have been wanting to try them out but don’t have a bike they would work on.

siltsunrise

You could save a lot of pain and research by simply getting a recumbent, ya know?
A short wheel base, small front wheel, above-seat-steering bent like my bacchetta giro 20 steel is a perfect machine for touring, unless you need to get onto pretty gnarly trails. I can ride moderate trails with no problem. It's no pansy.
I switched to bents 20 years ago after serious pain and locked up shoulders lockups on my touring/commuting mt bike (with very upright-allowing backwards bar ends).
A bent is hugely more comfortable for butt, neck, shoulders, wrists, and arms. My giro is slower than a regular bike though, though I only notice because people on regular bikes push by me pretty easily. I'm fit and tour a ton. It's the bike, not me. I can feel it as soon as I hop on a mt bike again. The legs are just able to do their thing much better in that position.
I find riding my bent a much more open, fun, relaxed experience. Chest and face open to the wind and word. Another plus: you catch less wind, which helps make up for that horizontal leg induced inefficiency.
I honestly think a lot of people would move to bents if they'd try them out.