lmike6453

I found a lot of posters in the Niner section of the mtbr forums mentioning QC issues with their carbon frames on that bike, with paint missing from the rear chainstay and chipping off. Maybe that's why it's so heavily discounted?

Same here, luckily I can store my bike indoors at work without any worries of theft.

Yes the story so far was I...
- Bought a $400 Diamondback Trace Sport Hybrid 32lb HT out of ignorance and still have it (for now).
- Bought a REI ADV 3.1 adventure touring bike and returned it after multiple rides (bar end shifters plus 3x drivetrain plus more).
- Bought a Salsa Fargo but returned it after realizing that it is a terrible choice in comparison to something more specialized for the use case scenarios for most of its mileage. Glad I was able to not be stuck with it.
- Check my next post for what I bought next, hopefully the last one...

lmike6453

I finally figured it out which bike and bought the...

2018 Niner RLT9 Steel 3 Star

RLT 9 STEEL 3-STAR RIVAL

I bought this bike and am unable to return it which is a good thing for me to simply be forced to ride it and enjoy it for a very long time. Somehow lady luck was on my side again and I was able to find an amazing deal.

I hope this thread helps others that may read it in the future and lessons learned throughout talking to many people, including you guys here are:

- Frame materials: Alu vs Carbon vs Steel. This helped me narrow it down to a steel bike for comfort / compliance / durability / can hold more weight.
- Geometry: is so important. I knew nothing, and now I know something about it. Start by learning head tube angles and reach.
- Handlebars: generally one wants drop bars only for multiple hand positioning on a long ride.
- Drivetrain: learn about what's on the market today, and put the info in gear-calculator.com to see the range. Front chain rings can easily be swapped out.
- Weight matters, kind of. Total bike weights seem to be 20-25lbs but more importantly, look at rotational mass (and weight) of the wheels and tire tread.
- Road bikes are too unstable (skinny tires) and not as durable as a gravel bike, and are limited to terrain. Gravel bikes seem to be more versatile since one can swap tires out.
- But gravel bike's trade off is a bit of speed if the terrain is all smooth paved roads / trails.

With that being said, I have chose the Niner RLT9 Steel 3 star because:

- Not just steel, but high quality Reynolds 853 steel.
- Not just good geometry, but amazing geometry.
- Mid range drivetrain SRAM Rival components.
- Great hydraulic disc brakes.
- 22.6lbs for an "adventure gravel bike" is in the great range for being steel.
- 35mm tires seem like a good starting point for the width and tread that is on them. Tubeless out of the box.
- Thru axles rather than quick release axles.
- Lots of cage mount / boss mount points for bikepacking / adventure. Including one for my top tube bag so it doesn't sway around anymore!

Again, thank you all for your help! I am actually exciting to receive this bike soon vs the others, and greatly appreciate your typing effort to assist me! I will update my OP.

-Mike

jsigone

awesome buy!!! those are supposed to be great bikes, enjoy it

jefnvk

Glad you found something. Get out and use it!

Are you planning on changing out the front chain ring for lower options? Looks like that bike has a low of 36x32, giving 31GI. Also are you worried at all that the Rival can only go to 32t on the rear?

DropBarFan

Impressive choice, IMO there should be more touring bikes with upgraded steel. RLT9's 853 tubing shows that steel frames can rival aluminum, titanium or even carbon fiber for low weight.

lmike6453

Thanks guys! Yeah I saw the gear range and was worried at first too. But then I put it in gear-calculator and saw this with a 90 cadence:
Bicycle Gear Calculator

Figured that I would give it a shot and see how it goes on the climbs. Worst case scenario is swapping out front chainring(s) to as low as a 34T maybe, which should be a minor setback.

jsigone

Ride it as it is, it already 32t cassette. If anything I'd swap the 46 front ring to a 50 to have more pavement speed.

If your fitness level or packed/loaded requirements are heavy then lighter gearing might be needed. I did a 1 week tour on 36x28 as my low, steepest grades were 14% with consistent 10% stuff

jefnvk

Yep, it is free to see how it works for you. Plus, if you decide to change it up, you have a clear idea on what you actually need.

You are far stronger than I.

DropBarFan

Bike is light & with short tour bikepacking stuff the gearing might work well enough. Myself I'd put in both an 11-34 cassette & that 34t chainring for those PA hills.

jimbo.

there is a lot to say for the "adventure bike/ sport bike" for light touring. Most places a 30 inch gear is enough, particularly packing light. 10 lbs lighter than traditional touring bikes is significant. The big question is what to do when you really need a 20 inch gear and can't/don't want to afford multiple bikes.
Changing chainrings often means changing cranksets, not cheap.
Somebody mentioned a road bike is less stable I assume compared to a touring bike. But that is a whole other discussion. Personally I don't want a tank. IMHO

saddlesores

but you'll probably find after doing some "light touring"
that you want more adventure.

want to get beyond easy rides on rail trailles or cruising
from hotel to guesthouse to warmshowers.

you'll want to go "expedition" and then you'll find
your 1*12 or 2*10 gravel bike is just too limiting.

and then you'll realize the best bike has just got
to be an LHT!

danmyersmn

Good choice. Hopefully it fills your expectations.

indyfabz

Especially if it has inadequate wheels like the Trek 920.

jimbo.

That's not what I've heard about those wheels.
Seems like the heavy expedition bikes have more limitations than the gravel bikes. Lower the gears a bit and go anywhere on a gravel bike. And easier than an expedition because of lighter bike wt. and lighter gear wt. More accurate handling also. A no-brainer really.

SANDBORNSTEVE

Good choice. That is one sweet bike.

saddlesores

you should read the online reviews.
so many reports of broken spokes after just a few hundred km
with only a light, or sometimes no, load.

28 spoke machine-made wheels using garbage bontrager rims?
add a poor gearing choice and super heavy duty looking racks..
and there's your no-brainer.

suitable only for outrunning zombies, the classic slow romero kind,
not the new-fangled athaletic ninja zombies nowadays.

indyfabz

Would they work for the Katy Trail?

mstateglfr 

jsigone

got pics of the new rig yet**********

lmike6453

Not yet but stay tuned. Should be getting it within 5 days.

lmike6453

Thanks all. I just picked it up today and love it so far. I tested it on a few steep hills and it climbs very easily without having to bring it all the way down the gears. Tomorrow will be the real test though commuting with it loaded.

It shifts very quickly and precisely with the SRAM Rival. The whole bike it just easy to get going, and keep it going. Here are pics of it naked after spending all day going crazy with helicopter tape , more pics tomorrow with it loaded:

J.Higgins 

Nice!

Patriot1

I am also seriously considering this bike in a 61cm model. Talked to my local Trek dealer and they told me mid May I would take delivery if I ordered this week.

Danny01

Sweet bike. This is pretty much the perfect bikepacking ride. One thing to note is that the higher end steels may not be the best choice for touring. The main benefit of higher end steels that they are stronger so they can be drawn thinner to save weight. You sacrifice some stiffness this way, which isn't ideal if one intends to load the bike up with gear. Another drawback is that it will be more prone to dents due to the thinner walls. Sure you can use the same wall thickness in a 853 frame, but then most of the benefits of using it in the first place would be gone. All else being equal, I would prefer thicker walled 631 tubes over thinner 853 in a touring/bikepacking application.

Lazyass

Question for the resident bikepackers who go off road. For trips of one or two nights camping, what types of rear bags would you recommend? Standard rack with panniers and rack pack, or something like the seat bag in the picture? Wondering if one or the other would be better off road when it gets rough. I ask because I'm not sure if there would be problems with side panniers slapping around (I've have no experience with them) and I'm not sure how stable the bag in the picture would be. It looks like it would probably wobble quite a bit.