RubeRad

Thinking a little more, it seems like a really cool idea, but it won't work on all kinds of bike racks (so you still need to carry a separate lock); and even those that it does work on, once the triangle is locked into the rack or around the street sign or whatever, it will be hard to lean the bike so it stays upright. Maybe include a bungee/strap to lash the top tube so it won't fall over?

Papa Tom

...about what? The rear rack lock, or the handlebar lock?

RubeRad

coupler-frame lock

Rear-rack-lock or handlebar-lock would come off the bike completely and give you a lot of freedom how to position the bike and lock and what you could lock to.

coupler-frame lock you could not use on a low-to-the-ground rack like this:



Come to think of it any kind of U-lock variant doesn't work well there, only cables/chains.

Papa Tom

Bike racks of any kind are almost non-existent where I travel in the Northeast US, so that wouldn't be an issue. Anytime I lock up my bike, it's to a sign post or something like that.

noglider 

@RubeRad, that kind of bike rack ticks me off, and so does the grid kind. Anyone who installs one of those hasn't installed a bike rack in my estimation.

RubeRad

Yeah, I guess for any product you have to be content that there is a subset of your desired market that won't find it useful.

Now I'm thinking of getting just regular S&S couplers in my bike, and carrying around the unique coupler-spanner. In my low-crime suburb, that would be enough to protect my bike. Would cost a coupla hundo though.

RubeRad

Yeah notice how even in that picture (which comes from the manufacturer's website), there is no pretense that it is practical for locking up

cyccommute 

I would agree. And I will add that having had to tell the one millionth customer at my local co-op that his wheel is toast because it bent in a rack, no one should use a rack like that (or even a taller one) on the front wheel. Put the back wheel in or suffer a taco.

Bryan88

Was looking for the posts regarding locks. I wish some whizzkid would come up with a quick, simple way to lock up a bicycle. For me it's the biggest PITA when it comes to using a bike for short errands. Something along the lines of a motorcycle steering lock ( I do appreciate that a motorcycle doesn't weigh 15Kg's).

noglider 

Here in NYC, a fairly common method is locking skewers such as Pitlock and Pinheads. Then a U-lock around frame and rack is quick and simple. I don't use this method because those skewers are expensive. I run a cheap cable through one of my wheels, and it's easy to cut, but I've never had a wheel stolen that was locked up that way.

RubeRad

I think what you want is a Frame Lock. They're pretty common Europe, less so in the U.S. But as you note, bikes weigh a lot less, so it's pretty easy to pick up the bike and toss it in a pickup truck or something. There are versions of frame locks with retractable cable locks, maybe that offers the convenience you're looking for?

Bryan88

That frame lock does look pretty cool, you would have to live in a very crime free place though. Surprisingly, although crime is rife in SA, wheels or accessories don't really get stolen much (I think). I bike left unchained will definitely walk though. I guess I am just a bit lazy, also my 48yr old eyes are now struggling to read the combination on my lock

srestrepo

Hey, i'm in the outer parts of springfield towards rte 20.... wish i had some of those pants i've been wanting today - wasn't fun getting my legs wet.

corn on the cog 

cccorlew

After my commuter bike was totaled by a truck (I came out pretty well) I thought "If I'm going to get smacked on the road I'd rather have it happen on a nice bike."
Plus, considering how many miles I put in on my commute, I might as well maximize the fun of riding.
I got a nice Ti frame.
What I wish I could have found was a similar bike with the rack designed into it from the start. Maybe the fenders too. I've seen some at NAHBS shows, but they were custom and crazy money.
Here's my commuter. I don't usually use the trailer, but I had boxes to mail.



Motobecane Century Ti Disc by curtis corlew, on Flickr

base2 

What would I really like is a modern Shimano 8-9-10-11 freehub that is solid axle and bolts on with 14mm nuts.

Horizontal top tube, 70 degree head tube & long 18 inch (460mm) or greater chain stays.

Internal gear hubs of a decent range (450% is a good place to start.) I cant think of a single bike shop locally that sells an IGH bike. Failing being able to achieve a wide range an OEM IGH, how about a bike that has a derailleur hanger so a chain tensioner and front double could be an option for wider range than a Nexus 7 or 8.

Road bike brifters for an IGH that goes on "road" bike handlebars. Like the kind Microshift makes, but also a right shifter that shifts to support the use of a front derailleur.

Dynamo hubs and decent 90+ lux lights. Intigrated like a Vanmoof.

A fork that has eyelets above & below the drop outs, & mid fork.

North road style handle bars. I'd settle for them just being available at a bike shop. Those goofy 3 foot wide beach cruiser bars gotta go. Seriously, when is the last time you saw North roads on a bike OEM at a bike shop?

26 inch disc brake wheels. Built with decent double wall rims and double butted spokes. (Disc brake IGH & disc brake dynamo? Hellz yeah!)

All sealed bearings.

Powder coated for durability.

That Dutch bike lock that goes at the rear wheel. It immobilizes the bike for quick stops by sliding a rod through the spokes.

A chain guard/case.

All in one package.




Fantasy:
A Nuvinci N380 mated to a Schlumph drive. Anyone?

CliffordK

Are you talking about a 10mm solid axle with 14mm nuts? Why not 15mm nuts?

Or a 14mm solid axle?

12mm solid axle?

There are 12mm thru axles available. 11s? Or you can at least use the 11s 42T cassette on a 10s freehub.

I think the 105 5800 rear hub could be converted to a 10mm solid axle relatively easily.

The 6800/8000 rear hub might be able to support a 12mm axle. Larger? But they've changed the cone configuration so it would be more complex to convert to a solid axle, but still theoretically would be possible.

Daniel4

I'd like to have a helmet light and a handlebar light that flashes blue and white.

base2 

I've had bikes that use 14mm nuts. I've had bikes that use 15mm nuts. Either way, a wheel with a nutted axle isn't going to get stolen as easily and can be tightened in a horizontal drop out better than a quick release. There is less risk of the wheel moving in the drop out if you give a hard effort on a sprint or a climb as has happened to me before.

Just a thing I want available but can't find anywhere. Of course, a 7 speed freewheel with nutted axle can be had on any Wal-mart bike. But who would want that?

CliffordK

For the front, the track and fixie market seems to be pushing bolt on axles (as well as the low end market). And at least Ultegra 6700 could be easily converted to bolt on.

For the rear, 105 - 5800 should be able to be converted to bolt on, or cross-graded with 6700 and converted to bolt on. Likewise related wheels like WH-RS11 should be similar.

I could probably convert 6800 or WH-6800 to bolt on. It would create a super-strong axle, but it would require somewhat more work.

It would be interesting whether the market would support a small shop doing conversions.

dabac

base2 

I think your target demographic would be people who wants a freehub who also want to do a 700c conversion of horizontal dropout bike boom bikes. Anyone concerned with theft &/or wheel slippage or upgrading wheels on a cheap BSO would also fit the bill.

It might be worth 1 or 2 just to see what demand would be like. Shifters fit the same on vintage the same as they do on modern bikes. Lots of people like to keep vintage up & running for various reasons. The option of a modern drive train with it's ramps, pins, fancy machined cogs, & the butteriest smoothest shifting 2018 has to offer certainly couldn't hurt.

I wonder what the take would be on derailleur situation. It would depend if the bike has a claw style derailleur that has a nut that would interfere with the 11 tooth cog or not...But theres gotta be plenty of bikes that have a hanger that would pose no issue right?

CliffordK

One can buy threaded claws that will fit all but the "direct mount" derailleurs. And, one could imagine making a direct mount claw if there was demand.

I had wanted the ability to purchase Shimano parts for modification for niche markets, but Shimano refuses to sell to home businesses, and paying double markup is not practical.

I believe that a small business should be able to do well with several niche products that might sell say 100 each per year while a large manufacturer can't make it work.

Perhaps I'll try to revisit that again shortly.

As far as derailleurs, I've experimented a bit with friction shifters and M8000 MTB derailleurs. The added cable pull of the M8000 works well for shifting 11s, but I ran into issues with my shifters not pulling enough cable. More work on that later. I need to test the Microshift bar end shifters, but that is likely the answer.

I presume the 5800/6800/R8000 derailleurs would likely work with my Suntour shifters, perhaps with minor mods.

base2 

On my most recent project (1979 Centurion) I currently have a vintage Suntour downtube friction shifters operating a Claris rear derailleur, with HG50(0?) 11-34 10 speed cassette, An Ultegra triple front derailleur with 105 triple crankset. Works just fine with room to spare at either end of the limit screws.

The trick was the derailleur pull ratio. The Claris and many older Shimano derailleurs pull ratio is 1.7:1. The newer derailleurs are something like 1.1 or 1.2:1 (depending road/mtn & off the top of my head) This means that newer 11 speed derailleurs need more cable pull for the same amount of cage movement. Once I discovered where I was going wrong I knew I had to get an older derailleur wits a 41 capacity. The Claris fell into my lap and voilà!

I hope my experience points you in the right direction as far as compatibility.

Good luck.

RubeRad

That's a lovely setup. I've also thought that Motobecane Ti bikes are a great deal, might get one myself someday.

I've also wondered why rear racks with integrated fenders are not common. One attachment point near the BB, and the fender could be strut-free.