Set back (seat)
06-12-20, 11:45 AM
#1
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Set back (seat)
Is this ok? This is where I need to be to have my balance and knee cap over pedal that I want.
dangerous?
jag
dangerous?
jag
06-12-20, 12:15 PM
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What material is the seat rails? You do not want to be doing that with titanium. I did and it cost me a $120 seat and half a ride, (Didn't get hurt but could have.) With ti - you do not want to have the clamp at the bend n the rail OR have a shape edge to the front and back clamp edges. (You can round those edges with a fine round file or sandpaper.) Titanium is very strong but it doesn't like stress starters.
That post has "classic" setback. (Front of clamp in line with the seatpost centerline.) There are many posts out there with a bunch more. Nitto makes several. (Their lugged steel post is beautiful and a lot lighter than it looks and has a 2-bolt clamp that is a joy to use.. Take a look at your seatpost's diameter (should say below the minimum insertion line) and seek out a new post.
Ben
That post has "classic" setback. (Front of clamp in line with the seatpost centerline.) There are many posts out there with a bunch more. Nitto makes several. (Their lugged steel post is beautiful and a lot lighter than it looks and has a 2-bolt clamp that is a joy to use.. Take a look at your seatpost's diameter (should say below the minimum insertion line) and seek out a new post.
Ben
06-12-20, 12:20 PM
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1. The knee over pedal axle is overblown, don't get too hung up over it. There are upsides AND downsides to behind, over and forward positions. You can research it.
However...
2. You want about a .5 to 1 degree back tilt to your saddle. Such that when you sit lightly in the saddle, you feel just a modicum of backward bias when settling.
This makes certain that you are not dumping your weight forward into your wrists and hands at the bars. Wrist and hand pain is primarily cause by forward tilt saddle bias forcing your wrists and hands to support excess body weight.
=8-|
However...
2. You want about a .5 to 1 degree back tilt to your saddle. Such that when you sit lightly in the saddle, you feel just a modicum of backward bias when settling.
This makes certain that you are not dumping your weight forward into your wrists and hands at the bars. Wrist and hand pain is primarily cause by forward tilt saddle bias forcing your wrists and hands to support excess body weight.
=8-|
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
06-12-20, 12:21 PM
#4
Senior Member
It's not OK, but as long as the rails are aluminium, it's not going to break.
I'd ride it without worrying.
I'd ride it without worrying.
06-12-20, 12:22 PM
#5
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What material is the seat rails? You do not want to be doing that with titanium. I did and it cost me a $120 seat and half a ride, (Didn't get hurt but could have.) With ti - you do not want to have the clamp at the bend n the rail OR have a shape edge to the front and back clamp edges. (You can round those edges with a fine round file or sandpaper.) Titanium is very strong but it doesn't like stress starters.
That post has "classic" setback. (Front of clamp in line with the seatpost centerline.) There are many posts out there with a bunch more. Nitto makes several. (Their lugged steel post is beautiful and a lot lighter than it looks and has a 2-bolt clamp that is a joy to use.. Take a look at your seatpost's diameter (should say below the minimum insertion line) and seek out a new post.
Ben
That post has "classic" setback. (Front of clamp in line with the seatpost centerline.) There are many posts out there with a bunch more. Nitto makes several. (Their lugged steel post is beautiful and a lot lighter than it looks and has a 2-bolt clamp that is a joy to use.. Take a look at your seatpost's diameter (should say below the minimum insertion line) and seek out a new post.
Ben
06-12-20, 12:24 PM
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1. The knee over pedal axle is overblown, don't get too hung up over it. There are upsides AND downsides to behind, over and forward positions. You can research it.
However...
2. You want about a .5 to 1 degree back tilt to your saddle. Such that when you sit lightly in the saddle, you feel just a modicum of backward bias when settling.
This makes certain that you are not dumping your weight forward into your wrists and hands at the bars. Wrist and hand pain is primarily cause by forward tilt saddle bias forcing your wrists and hands to support excess body weight.
=8-|
However...
2. You want about a .5 to 1 degree back tilt to your saddle. Such that when you sit lightly in the saddle, you feel just a modicum of backward bias when settling.
This makes certain that you are not dumping your weight forward into your wrists and hands at the bars. Wrist and hand pain is primarily cause by forward tilt saddle bias forcing your wrists and hands to support excess body weight.
=8-|
I was just trying to get my ass far enough back that I can very lightly touch the bars and still maintain balance. In the drops. Or hoods.
06-12-20, 12:29 PM
#7
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You can see here I’m going with a more traditional saddle I’m up to 60 mile rides now and this thick gel cushion didn’t seem to be as comfortable as I thought when new.
I’ve used it the last 2 1/2 years and as my fitness increased I thought maybe it was time to switch.
black dots are sit bones. 120mm
I spend about 80% in drops
06-12-20, 01:08 PM
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I've been riding with my San Marco Rolls Ti rails saddle slammed back as far as it goes for decades. It tends to end up being the perfect position for me on most of the bikes I've owned. I weigh 200 lbs and no issues at all even hanging off the rear of the saddle on climbs. Ride and enjoy.
06-12-20, 01:16 PM
#9
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06-12-20, 04:40 PM
#14
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tried it or just took a picture?
consider buying a different seatpost then.
I hate those toothed Laprade types they slip angle once you hang yor butt on it when adjusted back
So .. what diameter is it?
....
consider buying a different seatpost then.
I hate those toothed Laprade types they slip angle once you hang yor butt on it when adjusted back
So .. what diameter is it?
....
06-12-20, 05:10 PM
#16
Banned
I mean the whole seat post ..the end that goes in the frame.. that diameter .. if its 27.2 choices are abundant
\
I might even try to sell you one of mine..
\
I might even try to sell you one of mine..
06-17-20, 05:00 AM
#17
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For me that is the reason for moving the saddle and my body back. It will mess up KOPS, but I think that is secondary. I found two saddle brands that have especially long rails: Specialized and Selle AnAtomica. There are also a few seat posts that have additional setback. To me the most important one is the Nitto S-84. It’s a little heavy and odd looking, but it does this job.
