Setting the same reach on different bikes
#2
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,535
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3889 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
I go by knees and elbows. With my hands in drops or on hoods, your preference, and forearms horizontal, I level my pedals and see the relationship between knees and elbows. Hopefully I have one bike on which I like the reach, so then I make that relationship the same on other bikes.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
Likes For Carbonfiberboy:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1109 Post(s)
Liked 1,200 Times
in
760 Posts
Since I use the same saddle on all my bikes, it's pretty easy to get the reach and drop right.
I set my saddle angle (about 1/2 bubble nose up), setback and height relative to the pedals first.
I then setup the brake levers on the bars, and the angle of the drops as identically as I can (different bars, different levers, but I can get it close).
I then pick my stem length and angle (and/or spacers) to duplicate the reach and drop to the bar that I like. Since the saddles are identical, and they are set up over the pedals exactly the same, I can just use the nose of the saddle for the reach and drop measurements.
If a person uses different saddles on different bikes, it might be a little trickier. But once I found a saddle I liked I can't think of any reason to have different ones on different bikes.
I set my saddle angle (about 1/2 bubble nose up), setback and height relative to the pedals first.
I then setup the brake levers on the bars, and the angle of the drops as identically as I can (different bars, different levers, but I can get it close).
I then pick my stem length and angle (and/or spacers) to duplicate the reach and drop to the bar that I like. Since the saddles are identical, and they are set up over the pedals exactly the same, I can just use the nose of the saddle for the reach and drop measurements.
If a person uses different saddles on different bikes, it might be a little trickier. But once I found a saddle I liked I can't think of any reason to have different ones on different bikes.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
I run a string or thin electrical cable across the saddle. Tack it down with a length of tape. Move it back & forth until it feels like it’s centered under the sit bones.
That gives me a reference to get any pedal lengthwise correct WRT the BB, and the bars right to the saddle.
That gives me a reference to get any pedal lengthwise correct WRT the BB, and the bars right to the saddle.
#5
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,503
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7348 Post(s)
Liked 2,474 Times
in
1,437 Posts
Very good ideas. I must try them, because I have a couple of bikes that need adjustment, and I don't know which way to go.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.