Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Rixe Single Cotter Crank?

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Rixe Single Cotter Crank?

Old 11-18-19, 07:37 PM
  #1  
hokiefyd 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hokiefyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,138

Bikes: More bikes than riders

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times in 568 Posts
Rixe Single Cotter Crank?

I'm working on a Rixe folding bike. The Sachs Torpedo Duomatic hub is a '69 model, and I presume it's original to the bike. It has a new-on-me crank -- this crankset has a cotter on the NDS and...nothing on the DS. The DS arm and ring seem to be swaged together and I can see what I presume is the end of the spindle protruding through, and ending flush with, the crank arm. There is nothing obvious that fastens the crank arm to the spindle. The NDS arm has a conventional cotter. But the end of the spindle has a strange triangular "hole" in the end. There's a large hex nut just inboard of the NDS crank arm.

I'm guessing that the NDS arm is fastened to the spindle with a conventional cotter. Once the NDS arm is removed, I'm guessing this nut is removed, and the DS arm and spindle assembly slide out from the DS? Sort of like a strange combination of an Ashtabula crank and a 3-piece crank?

I like to get the cranks off this bike frame, as I'd like to give it a deep clean and fresh paint. But I also don't want to fix something that's not broken, and I'm wondering If I shouldn't just leave this whole contraption in place. The bearings sound dry, but they're also smooth and seem to be adjusted well.

Thoughts? Ideas? Dark tales portending very bad things if I try to remove this crank?
hokiefyd is offline  
Likes For hokiefyd:
Old 11-18-19, 07:38 PM
  #2  
hokiefyd 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hokiefyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,138

Bikes: More bikes than riders

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times in 568 Posts
This is the DS:



And the NDS:

hokiefyd is offline  
Likes For hokiefyd:
Old 11-18-19, 08:44 PM
  #3  
clubman 
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,841

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2295 Post(s)
Liked 2,041 Times in 1,250 Posts
A bike that can't be serviced isn't worth riding for long so go for it. I'd measure the width of the cotter to make sure it's a standard available size, maybe 9.5 mm. Remove it carefully in case you do have to use it for some reason. The triangle is probably for a tool to help break it apart if needed
clubman is offline  
Likes For clubman:
Old 11-18-19, 11:26 PM
  #4  
Jeff Wills
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,825
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 694 Times in 371 Posts
This old thread has pictures of this type crank. You should be able to figure out how to disassemble it.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...tage-bike.html
__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline  
Likes For Jeff Wills:
Old 11-19-19, 06:45 AM
  #5  
hokiefyd 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hokiefyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,138

Bikes: More bikes than riders

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times in 568 Posts
Thanks to you both. The cotter is a 9.5mm cotter, so I should be able to get this back together, even if all I can do is remove the parts and grease the bearings. It does seem like this has to be similar to the example in that linked thread where the cups are pressed in or set in to the bottom bracket (the shell may not even be threaded) and the cones are on the outside of the cup, trapping the bearings between. (Backwards from a "conventional" crank spindle, where the "cone" is part of the spindle and the cup threads in from the outside and traps the bearings between.)

I put some penetrating oil in the cotter last night. I'll give it a try with a vice-and-socket today and see if I find success.
hokiefyd is offline  
Old 11-19-19, 06:49 AM
  #6  
hokiefyd 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hokiefyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,138

Bikes: More bikes than riders

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times in 568 Posts
With the name of the bottom bracket identified (a Thompson-Simplex design), I found a YouTube video of my exact bike and bottom bracket, so I should be good to go from here. I appreciate clubman, Jeff Wills, and @juvela from the other thread, for the info.

hokiefyd is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.