Quick questions and answers
#1426
Super-duper Genius
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I have the been in the school of thought that if you are riding clipless and your knees hurt, there is either a cleat issue or the saddle height is off. What kind of pedals are you running? And with the cleats, if you are running an mtb style pedal like EggBeaters or SPD's, even a slight adjustment of the cleat angle can make all the difference in the world.
klhada, I hope you get it figured out. There's nothing wrong with toe straps, but clipless is so much better overall.
#1427
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Salsa Cutthroat Carbon 1x or Warbird Carbon Ultegra?
I'd go Warbird if you were just looking for a gravel bike for fireroads, light touring, less gnarly trails.
The Cutthroat looks like you could throw flat bars on it and ride it like a mtb if you wanted to, but turning those huge tires on light gravel or bike trails would get old fast and I'd want something speedier.
#1429
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Both the smooth hoods from the 10-speed generation (originally supplied) and the newer 22 hoods (with the textured top webbing) will fit.
#1430
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Can anyone attest to whether a 55 or 58 cm Bianchi San Jose is a better fit for a 6'-tall, shorter legged, longer torso person? I swear that bike has the most perplexing geometry on the planet.
#1434
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Sugino 75 bb race
I'm missing a race for the sugino 75bb...can I pack the bb with loose ball bearings without the race? Would that mess up the spindle?
Worst case scenario I buy the tange bb or sugino 75 sealed bb....but this would save me money if I can pack without the race.
Worst case scenario I buy the tange bb or sugino 75 sealed bb....but this would save me money if I can pack without the race.
#1435
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You can install a loose ball bottom bracket without cages, no problem. You just need to use plenty of grease to hold the balls in place in the cup during installation. The only catch is that you have to add extra balls (I think two*, in the case of the Sugino) to make up for the extra space left over since the cage fingers are no longer taking up space between the balls. The good news is that you can buy top of the line grade 25 balls cheaply and easily, for example here. Go ahead and replace all the balls at once instead of adding to the old balls; otherwise you risk uneven rolling/wear with a mixed set.
*You want about one ball's width left over when the balls are packed around the cup race.
Last edited by scoho; 02-18-17 at 02:19 AM.
#1436
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You're missing a cage, not a race. The race is the grooved surface (in the case of loose bearings: one in the cup, one on the cone) that the balls roll against.
You can install a loose ball bottom bracket without cages, no problem. You just need to use plenty of grease to hold the balls in place in the cup during installation. The only catch is that you have to add extra balls (I think two*, in the case of the Sugino) to make up for the extra space left over since the cage fingers are no longer taking up space between the balls. The good news is that you can buy top of the line grade 25 balls cheaply and easily, for example here. Go ahead and replace all the balls at once instead of adding to the old balls; otherwise you risk uneven rolling/wear with a mixed set.
*You want about one ball's width left over when the balls are packed around the cup race.
You can install a loose ball bottom bracket without cages, no problem. You just need to use plenty of grease to hold the balls in place in the cup during installation. The only catch is that you have to add extra balls (I think two*, in the case of the Sugino) to make up for the extra space left over since the cage fingers are no longer taking up space between the balls. The good news is that you can buy top of the line grade 25 balls cheaply and easily, for example here. Go ahead and replace all the balls at once instead of adding to the old balls; otherwise you risk uneven rolling/wear with a mixed set.
*You want about one ball's width left over when the balls are packed around the cup race.
Is white lighting grease okay to pack the bearings in the bb?
#1437
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Ah, I thought you still had the balls from the missing race (dunno why I thought that), so I meant to totally replace them instead of just adding to them on that side. It's not strictly necessary to replace the balls on the other side, but I probably would. In fact, I'd probably go cageless on that side too, to keep things balanced.
You just want a good, waterproof grease, so White Lightning will work well. Good luck!
You just want a good, waterproof grease, so White Lightning will work well. Good luck!
#1438
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Ah, I thought you still had the balls from the missing race (dunno why I thought that), so I meant to totally replace them instead of just adding to them on that side. It's not strictly necessary to replace the balls on the other side, but I probably would. In fact, I'd probably go cageless on that side too, to keep things balanced.
You just want a good, waterproof grease, so White Lightning will work well. Good luck!
You just want a good, waterproof grease, so White Lightning will work well. Good luck!
#1439
bill nyecycles
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what are the tools I need to buy in order to take apart and service an older threaded headset? I tried a quick google search and even parktool's site but it wasn't explicit plus they basically ignored the "threaded" word in my search.
#1440
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Depends on how fancy you want to get. You can buy headset wrenches in the specific size of you top lock nut, or you can get away with using a large crescent (adjustable) wrench. Some of the top races have wrench flats of a different size than the lock nut so you need a wrench to hold that as well (during assembly). But some top races have knurled edges instead of wrench flats, and those can be held with a big pair of channel locks.
#1441
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Most likely you will need a 32mm spanner for the upper adjustable cup, such as the Park HCW-15, which also has a 36mm at the other end. As squid said, just use a large crescent wrench for the top lock nut.
#1442
bill nyecycles
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Hmm, when I brought my bike in to the shop to get the headset inspected and replaced, i coulda swore i saw him use some sort of hook shaped tool with a notch on the end to loosen something (lockring of some sort?)
Was also thinking of getting this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG
which should be helpful for pretty much everything, yes? Or is having a individual blue handled one of each more elegant?
Was also thinking of getting this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG
which should be helpful for pretty much everything, yes? Or is having a individual blue handled one of each more elegant?
#1443
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Those wrenches are for working on your hubs and are way too small for your headset. Did you read my post ?
#1444
bill nyecycles
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I did but wasn't looking at numbers apparently. Duly noted. (we still need the small wrenches for both mine and my wife's wheels though heh)
#1445
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Hmm, when I brought my bike in to the shop to get the headset inspected and replaced, i coulda swore i saw him use some sort of hook shaped tool with a notch on the end to loosen something (lockring of some sort?)
Was also thinking of getting this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG
which should be helpful for pretty much everything, yes? Or is having a individual blue handled one of each more elegant?
Was also thinking of getting this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG
which should be helpful for pretty much everything, yes? Or is having a individual blue handled one of each more elegant?
Yeah those are for your hub cones. They are made very thin for that purpose. They don't hold up well to being cranked on, so don't use those for regular nuts.
#1446
bill nyecycles
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need a new SS freewheel. 17t i think. i only have experience with my ACS crossfire that the LBS got for me. what other brands are out there and readily avialable? amazon prime is helpful.
#1447
Fresh Garbage
Can we get a picture? There are many different kinds of old threaded headsets and not all of them use the 32mm. As you have seen, your mechanic had to use a lockring wrench on it. And as Squidpuppet said, some don't even have wrench flats. But you say you want to replace it, so this may mean nothing because a new headset will take the 32mm wrench.
#1448
bill nyecycles
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Can we get a picture? There are many different kinds of old threaded headsets and not all of them use the 32mm. As you have seen, your mechanic had to use a lockring wrench on it. And as Squidpuppet said, some don't even have wrench flats. But you say you want to replace it, so this may mean nothing because a new headset will take the 32mm wrench.
#1449
THE STUFFED
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This reminds me of Shimano's headsets with scalloped locknuts which I had to deal with recently.
You can actually do this with the 32mm end of either the HCW-7/-15, no need to buy the obscure specific tool. Just don't hamfist it.
You can actually do this with the 32mm end of either the HCW-7/-15, no need to buy the obscure specific tool. Just don't hamfist it.
#1450
Warehouse Monkey
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Since I'm upgrading my entire drivetrain, what would make a good, servicable 1/8" chain with a quicklink?
(time to stop talking about this and place the order already!)
(time to stop talking about this and place the order already!)
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