Rumpled

I'm starting to think about getting another wheelset for my Fuji Cross Comp. Even though I have been racing CX; my main motivation for a new wheelset is to avoid the constant changing of tires from road to CX, not a pit set. As I am a beginning, DFL back of the pack racer - if I flat, well it's a DNF day for me. As this is my only road bike; I'd like to use this bike to try some centuries and road riding that will involve more hills. I am a clyde; so weak wheels won't do it for me. Also, I'm a clincher guy for now, so no tubular suggestions please.

My current wheels have Fuji hubs, unknown spokes and nipples and Alex DC-19, 32-hole rims. They are assumed to be heavy in relation to most other wheels by me. I found weights online of 530g for the rims.

I'm assuming whatever new wheelset I get will be better/lighter; even with a budget on the lower side.

I'd like to have one road set and one CX set. Given what I currently have, and a lighter/better set; which set would be better for road riding and which for CX? I think the answer is that the lighter/better new set would be best for both. Given that, any thoughts on a strategy to use these two wheelsets?

I also think I might like different cassettes (like a 12-25 and a 12-27) on the wheelsets - is that even possible without completely adjusting the derailleur every time?

RT

I have this exact bike and have been pondering the same. I used to own some Vuelta Corsa HD's at Nashbar, and while heavy (2400g), they spun like crazy and were very solid. You can get them for about $150 on sale. Bonktown has some Fulcrum Racing 7's for $175 or so from time to time, but I think your best bet may be to spend a little more and contact Psimet.

moralleper

I picked up a set of Mavic Open Pros laced to Ultegra hubs from performance and they were $175 after coupons, $225 before.

also I think the weight is somewhere around 1800g for the set.

mr.smith.pdx

I picked up a mismatched set of wheels on craigslist locally for $85. The front is some old Mavic wheel with the Start shaped plastic looking hub and straight pull spokes, the rear is Mavic OP with Ultegra hub. I am also a clyde. I've raced them in short track mtb races on the cx bike 2005 Fuji Cros Pro) and 3 other cross races. Some trueness issue, but nothing major. Solid wheels.

I have a Forte Titan rear back-up wheel cheap on sale after I screwed up a different wheel while it was off my bike. Wait for a sale. Buy sturdy wheels. Don;t sweat the weight. If you want less weight, eat a few salads and ride your heavy wheels more and lose the weight from "the engine." I bet you could shave more weight off your belly than you could off your wheels. I know I could.

black_box 

I went through this last year with my fuji cross bike and went the Psimet route. A little more money, but hand-built and nicely tensioned... Easy transaction and I'm happy with the wheels. I probably should have gotten two sets (and I'm debating a 2nd) because swapping between wheels with different rim widths (19mm vs. 21ish?) probably means you have to adjust the brakes (my stock wheels were alex ace-19). You will probably want the stronger wheels for the rough stuff and it's just a bonus that they're lighter.

I run different cassettes too, 12-25 and 11-28. I may have twisted the adjustment barrel slightly but nothing major.

Rumpled

Thanks for the suggestions. It is correct that the motor could drop an entire bike weight or two.
I'll have to try and get the same width to minimize interchange problems.

flargle

Money spent on good wheels is not wasted.

I recommend Velocity Aerohead rims (OC rear) laced 32x3 (DT Comp) to Shimano hubs (105 or better) by a good builder (either local or online).

Using different cassettes isn't bad as long as your rear der and chain length cover the bigger size.

scattered73

I have a second set of wheels on my cross bike for this exact reason the only bummer is that the rims are different widths. Which causes the pads to hit lower or higher and to be to tight or to loose, depending on which wheels I am switching from. So with wheel changes I have to readjust the brakes which seems to be as much a pain a switching tires. If you buy locally see if they will let you slide the wheel in to see how it fits since you are trying make things quicker and easier. When I switch between my 11-23 cassette and 12-27 it only needs a slight tension adjustment to get things perfect so slight that I only bother half the time.

gfactor

Have you considered going tubular? I did and for cross, that has been a fantastic upgrade.