davidad

I have had this one for 20 years and only used it as a guide. When it dropped through I then starting using a ruler and replaced after 1/16" wear. I now have the Pedro's and trust it.

noglider 

Cheap chains are as good as expensive chains.

Alzerbster

So I ordered the Wipperman chain. All their 6-7-8 speed chains had 114 links except a couple chains for Ebikes and they had 124 and 136 links, and were 80 plus dollars. I just assumed the 114 links would be enough, but I found out the chain on my bike has 116 links. It works except on the large chain ring and the large cog on the rear. Guess I'll send it back and get a Shimano, which I see they sell a 116 link 8 speed chain. Or I will just never use the large chain ring and large gear on the rear, which I have not yet. What would you guys do? Does anyone know if the Wipperman connex link will work with a Shimano chain?

Comparing the new chain to my old one. The chain definitely needed replaced.

Novalite

In case singlespeed a 1/8" wide chain has 50% more mechanical contact (outer surface pin - inner surface plate hole) than a 3/32" chain. That means less pressure and thus less wear. Same applies to a 1/8" ersus a 3/32" wide sprocket/chainring. Since I changed drivetrain to 1/8" the replacement frequency halved.
Later on I mounted a 1/8" chain with 3/16" plates. This chain did its job for 30000 km (18 months). I then replaced all 3 parts the same time (it wasn't needed yet but I didn't take the risk, the rear cogs teeth were seriously hollowed out), and the second same one sits now at half the first ones life with the tensioner below half its range.
This with the mudguards and the lubrication regime I described.

zacster

When in doubt throw it out. Just replace a chain you suspect is worn, they don't cost that much money, at least not the KMC. It isn't worth the precision measurements.

The next time you put on a new chain, check it with whatever tool you have and go from there. If the tool falls through on a new chain, toss the tool. Check again every 500 miles and see where it goes. At some point you'll have a feel for accuracy.

If you ride a commuter bike for half your miles and a road bike or other more serious bike for the other half, your chains will last a long time.

noglider 

@Alzerbster, it is dangerous to ride a chain that is too short. You might promise yourself you'll never use that combo, but one day, you will by accident, and you'll cause damage.

Ronsonic 

Chains are cheap, Cassettes used to be, but not anymore. Chainrings have never been cheap.

Replace the chain.

Don't know where you live, but here in Florida the lime and shell "gravel" roads will chew up a chain and drivetrain very quickly.

Mixed in with the lime and sand is microscopic silt that just gets everywhere, turns your bike gray and sticks to your chain lube.

I've gone to dry lube for the off-road and gravel-road bikes and it seems to help. I avoid riding off-road in the wet so it isn't a problem. Dry lube requires more frequent use but does the job when you keep up with it.

Alzerbster

Yes I thought it best to Return the Wipperman chain, and I ordered a KMC 116 link chain. Should have counted links before I ordered, but assumed since the only 6-7-8 speed chain Wipperman sells is a 114 link, and it would work. Live and learn.

Ronsonic: I live in PA. and always wondered what the gritty limestone was doing to my drive train. I also have avoided riding in any kind of wet weather. So that didn't contribute to my quick chain wear, and I really doubt that de greasing and lubing to often had much to do with it either. Even if I did use water to rinse once in a while. I have planned on changing to a dry lube like White lighting, and maybe seeing if a fender will fit on my bike, so that I can attach a mud flap to it. As you say chains are cheap, and if I could get one to last even a 1000 miles. I would be okay with that.

zacster

Try a wax based lube like Squirt. The good thing about it is that nothing sticks to it, the bad is that you need to apply it more often. I've been using it for 1-2 years now and one thing I really like is that it doesn't leave chain tattoos because it just doesn't get dirty. It also leaves a very quiet running chain. I don't think I'd use it though in wet conditions as it washes off easily.

mpetry912 

yes, a mud flap and fender will definitely reduce the amount of crud that is flung up on the chain from the front tire. I have made very effective mud flaps by cutting up an old waterbottle !

the limestone chip material is a very good abrasive and will probably wear your chain out quickly.

I've had very good luck with "Muc-Off" chain lube. I do not like white lightning, it builds up goo that is hard to clean off.

Chain cleaning tip that you have not heard before: Scrubbing bubbles bathroom cleaner ! Spray on, toothbrush chain and freewheel / cassette, hose off, blow with compressed air, WD40 to displace water, and then apply your lube. Wipe off. Squeaky clean.

Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

Ronsonic 

I'm using Squirt, too. Got a few bottles on sale. I do the wipe and re-apply every ride, unlike the oily lubes which hang on better.

DaveSSS 

A chain that's only scrubbed externally while on the bike will never be clean where it really matters - around the inside of the rollers and the pin/inner plate. WD-40 contains plenty of oil and will remain on the chain to foul up your intended chain lube.

noglider 

Maybe and maybe not. If I use a sufficient quantity of lube and it sufficiently flushes the crap to the external surfaces, that could work. I don't know if I can do that, but my current chain is doing well having had lots of time in rainy grit. I've been lubing and wiping it after those dirty rides. I'm not proving anything, at least not yet, but so far, so good. I really hate cleaning chains the "normal" way and would sooner replace one than soak it in solvent.

63rickert

Either you have some unique abrasive mixed into the local limestone or that chain was a defective part, long when new. Or you are King Kong and wear chains out faster than any other living human. Cleanliness is next to Godliness but the chain cleaning rituals in online forums are peculiar to less than 1% of those who ride bikes. Bikes would just not be a common device if all that was necessary. As long as you don't let the chain run dry you should get twice 700 miles and will more likely get four or five times 700 miles. I would have asked Cannondale for a fresh chain.

Keep measuring. Replace them early. Lots of plausible advice above, most of it not wrong, bicycles work just fine with lower levels of maintenance. By measuring as soon as 700 miles OP has already demonstrated basic mechanical sense not shared by average users. And should expect better than average results.

mpetry912 

Dave said and I do agree with that. Your chain cleaning routine should take into account riding conditions and even how many bikes you have !

I spread my riding across 5 or 6 bikes and the summer weather is dry and not dusty. I give the chain a quick wipe before I put the bike away.

Each bike gets a wash and wipe down 2-3 times / season. I use wash water with Dawn Ultra dishwashing detergent (cuts grease) and a splash of kerosene (special secret from Brian Baylis) in the wash water.

I use Scrubbing Bubbles spray bathroom cleanser on the chain and derailleur pulleys with some toothbrushing action. Disposable toothbrushes intended for weapons cleaning - they are great ! Hose off and spray with compressed air, then use WD40 to displace water, and then lube.

I run a Sachs PC-850 chain with the removable link on most bikes, so removing the chain is easy. Once a year or so the chain comes off and gets a real cleaning with degreaser (which gets into the rollers) and then, again, Scrubbing Bubbles, water rinse, and compressed air spray followed by WD40 and then lube. I find that I get pretty good life on chains - but then, I'm not riding in really adverse conditions.

as always, your mileage may vary. Take everything I said under advisement.

Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

davidad

If you don't want to maintain the chain it's your money. The only way to clean the chain is off the bike. It will last considerably longer.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

DaveSSS 

WD-40 applied before lubing is a bad idea. It contains a substantial amount of oil and the solvent does not evaporate quickly. Whatever chain lube applied will contaminated with oil and not wprkvas expected - especially a dry lube.

Alzerbster

I can't believe how many different ways there are to clean and lube a chain, and the discussion it brings about. I certainly found out i was using the wrong lube for the conditions I ride in. The lube I was using is a good lube it just made things worse for riding on crushed limestone. I have decided I'm going to get some Paraffin, paraffin lamp oil, and wax my chains. I bought two new chains so i can have a spare ready to go. I cleaned them in mineral spirits, and then washed them in alcohol. Hopefully I'll get more than 700 miles out of these chains.
















t

noglider 

It's a good article, and I read it many years ago. I don't know why my method works for me, but I can tell you it does, and I'm not saying it will work for anyone else. My chain has been on my bike for a long time, and I wish I recorded the date. Next time I change it, I'll keep a record. I've had chains last a short time, and I don't know why, either, but I think I might be doing something right for the time being. This winter might be a good test, though, with the increase in salt and grit.

Novalite

I also don't take the chain off - too much hassle / work.
For me this maintenance works: a small drop oil on every roller.
Oil (and water) makes the grit/dirt mobile and centrifugal force moves it to the outside of the links.
Every day I wipe the outside until clean.
When too dry, and clean, I repeat.
I measure "works for me" as the chain runs silently.

davidad

Only if you are using Al. cogs. That is what that side of the gauge is used on. The S is for steel cogs.

Alzerbster

So I bought a wiperman chain, which is definitely a higher quality chain compared to the KMC. the problem was Wipperman only makes a 114 link chain in an 8 speed chain, and I needed 116 links. Didn't know that until I put it on my bike. They do make a 124 link chain, but I didn't want to sped $55 for the chain to knock out 8 links. I could buy 3 KMC chains for that much. Anyway I put a new chain on, and went for a little test ride. The 4, 5, and 6 cogs on the cassette the chain would slip when I applied a load to them. they are the three gears I used most of the time during the 700 miles I had on the bike. The cassette didn't look that worn to me. So I bought a new cassette, put it on, and everything works fine now. So I not only wore a chain out in 700 miles, but also a cassette. I am now going to use nothing but wax for a lubricant, and see how that works for chain and cassette wear.
One of the people that I ride with has around 1000 miles on their bike. I lent them the park tool and asked them to check their chain for wear. The .5 end of the tool would not drop into their chain. They rode their bike on the same limestone trails I did. My brother has a bike that is 10 years old. About the only place he has ridden his bike is on crushed limestone rail trails, and he had never changed his chain, although he doesn't have a lot of miles on it. I'm sure he has at least a 1000 miles on it. I asked him to measure his chain. He said it was exactly 12 inches pin to pin. So I have no idea what would have caused the excessive wear on my bike parts. I probably cleaned and lubed my chain with an oil based lube much more often than anyone else does. The only thing I can think of is the lube was collecting the limestone dust, and making a grinding past. The chain I removed from the bike was a KMC chain, and the cassette was a Shimano.

rydabent

Using Mobil 1 oil I have regularly been getting over 8000 miles on both my recumbent and trike chains. I only ride on hard surface streets and bike paths. I take extraordinary care of the chain by wiping it down before every ride.

700 miles seems really bad to me. The limestone trails is not helping. Was there a brand name stamped on the links?

Alzerbster

Yes, the original chain was a KMC.

SHBR

Limestone is quite abrasive no?

Combine that with an OEM chain (which can be lower quality than a retail version) and it sounds about right.