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Tires for THIS gravel...

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Tires for THIS gravel...

Old 05-30-19, 07:05 AM
  #26  
indyfabz
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Fat bike? MTB with suspension? Srsly? I have tackled far worse (and far hillier) fully loaded on Conti Top Contact II 35c (which is actually 37c).
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Old 05-30-19, 07:09 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mixteup
I like this idea - I don't imagine you'd have one of those babies slide out from under you !
And just think of the workout
With 5-10 psi, 26x4" tires roll pretty nice.
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Old 05-30-19, 07:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by hadassah
Well, it's what I got around here. It's not always like this on every mile I ride but I do need something that might work better than my current tires for this. I rode it today with no problems, I just can't go fast and I'm okay with that. : )
What kind of bike, what size rims do you have? Biggest tire you can run width wise is the answer. My bike packing rig is a Surly Krampus, running 29 x 3" tires at 10-15 psi, great stuff.
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Old 05-30-19, 07:19 AM
  #29  
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I was kind of kidding about the fatbike workout - If the bike is a decent, fairly light one, they really do ride pretty nice.
But you have to buy a good bike to get that .......
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Old 05-30-19, 07:29 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Fat bike? MTB with suspension? Srsly? I have tackled far worse (and far hillier) fully loaded on Conti Top Contact II 35c (which is actually 37c).
it's clear the OP doesn't have the handling skills of an experienced rider, which is something that only comes with riding time. I have ridden on worse on 30mm tires, but I wouldn't say it was particularly confidence-inspiring, and I wouldn't recommend it. And I wondered if I was going down a couple of times. PA DCNR has been known to lay down some pretty thick gravel in places, it can be a bit scary at speed. I'm riding 38mm GravelKing small knob right now, and they are pretty stable at low pressures, 30-40psi. Descending on my mountain bike is better, 2 3/8" tires at low pressures.
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Old 05-30-19, 09:01 AM
  #31  
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Old 05-30-19, 09:07 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Fat bike? MTB with suspension? Srsly? I have tackled far worse (and far hillier) fully loaded on Conti Top Contact II 35c (which is actually 37c).
Seriously! I would expect to have no issues riding that on 40mm x'plor MSO or USH. Not going wicked fast and may not be as comfortable as 2+ inch tires, but would totally be OK.
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Old 05-30-19, 12:39 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by hadassah
WTB Riddler Maybe?
absolutely! love these tires, just gotta find the right pressure for the rider, bike & terrain. they respond well to subtle adjustments. on my 29er w/ tubes, I use the 2.25" size, w 21psi front 25psi rear. I'm 230 lbs & that feels right for just about everything







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Old 05-30-19, 04:55 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by autonomy
Seriously! I would expect to have no issues riding that on 40mm x'plor MSO or USH. Not going wicked fast and may not be as comfortable as 2+ inch tires, but would totally be OK.
I think the whole point though is I'd have no issues doing 2/3 miles on that surface with 35mm Vittoria Voyager Hypers if it was a small percentage of a much longer ride that takes in quite a bit of tarmac as well ... BUT .... he's doing 20 miles just on that every day (he didn't say he was doing any road at all) so as you say 2"+ tyres would be more comfortable and the right ones probably a lot more stable.

Anyway just my 2p's worth
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Old 06-03-19, 11:40 AM
  #35  
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For gravel that coarse and the kind of mileage you're doing on it, you're probably best off with either a plus-sized tire (3-4") or a true fat bike tire (4"+). Of course, that would mean a new bike, but if you're commuting, you can probably justify it. It's certainly possible to ride this stuff on a gravel bike with 35-40mm tires and I've done it many times, but only for relatively short sections. If I was doing it daily, I'd opt for either my hardtail MTB or my rigid fat bike. Suspension isn't going to make much difference on this type of surface and a wider tire at lower pressure will basically make the surface roughness disappear.
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Old 06-03-19, 11:41 AM
  #36  
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I always make do with hard skinny tires, but if that were my main road, I'd go wider and softer to keep from sinking in, if that is an issue, and more comfort. However, any loose surface will have some slip. You need the reflexes to compensate. In my car on gravel, I sometimes feel that the steering wheel only gets a minority vote on the steering committee.
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Old 06-03-19, 12:53 PM
  #37  
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google renehersecycles

These folks have been making low psi, low rolling resistance tires for a few years. They are made for them by Panaracer.
There is a blog associated with their site also. and if it matters, Ted King rode on their tires in the gravel race in KS last year--Dirty Kanza--or something like that
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Old 06-03-19, 12:55 PM
  #38  
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I was JUST thinking my hardtail with 2.8 tubeless tires around 15psi would be nice for this road But i'm so used to my gravel bike with tubeless 650bx47 these days... and 20 miles a day? i may prefer my drop-bar gravel bike.

Congrats on the weight loss!!!

-eric/fresno, ca.
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Old 06-03-19, 02:07 PM
  #39  
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Everyone says wide and low pressure. Yes. Now include a supple casing. And in gravel like that there will always be a bit of slip and slide, so keep the saddle down. The lower the saddle the easier the recovery. It might feel like you gave up some power at first, you will adjust.
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Old 06-03-19, 02:31 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Happy Feet
That's a great b/w pic. I may have to try that.
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Old 06-03-19, 02:40 PM
  #41  
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Tires

Originally Posted by hadassah


I hope this photo doesn't upload as big as it looks on my end. I broke my leg last June on my first ride out on my Trek Marlin... You all helped me realize it was too high of a PSI. I have recently got new tires... Hillbilly Grip. If you look them up, they are just knobby and pretty aggressive. I've read that they are great for mud but squirrely on gravel... yes, they are right. I'm considering getting some other tires instead as this is the type of gravel I ride on daily. I really need some stability, am willing to take some classes too as I know it's not all about tires, but am wondering what would be good on this type of gravel/rock. WTB Riddler Maybe? Anyone else ride on this stuff? Thanks a bunch. By the way I was 215 lbs last year from 245, when I broke my leg, now in the 160's and rode 34 miles one day a couple weeks ago. Average 20 miles on this gravel daily.


I've ridden some Missouri gravel. Most of what I've ridden can easily be ridden with a 700x32 tire, though I've hit sections with 2" loose, deep rock on steep descents where the 38 tire was big enough, it was just going to be squirrely as all get out. I see that you're riding a bike that takes 26" tires, but does have front suspension. I started off riding gravel on a Gary Fisher hard tail that also took 26" tires. After I blew out the sidewall on the mtb knobbies it had on it, I switched to Continental Town & Country. They aren't necessarily the bees knees, but did fine on gravel. They are a relatively inexpensive tire, little heavy, but OK. Had I kept the bike, I'd probably would have shod it in ReneHerse Rat Trap Pass in the 2x2.3 size. You don't actually need knobs for gravel, bike knobs seldom actually reach hard pack, unless it just a skiff of gravel dust anyway. These would be light, and fast on the roads, and deform nicely over the gravel you have pictured.


Around me, where we once had small diameter gravel that packed, they've over laid loose gravel "sand" that resists packing. I can manage sometimes on a tire that measure out 700x38, but it's not a lot of fun. So, just to avoid the frustration, I take out my fat bike when I want to ride a lot of road that is going to have a lot of sand, etc. Not really any faster, but certainly less stressful.


Congrats on the weight loss.
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Old 06-03-19, 03:04 PM
  #42  
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This site has tons of ties... I’d look for one with a very small center pattern, an decent side knobs....

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/sear...saAlc1EALw_wcB

Good of luck and Congrats!
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Old 06-03-19, 07:05 PM
  #43  
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Eroica tires?

Witterings commented on 5/30:
I wonder if you're thinking gravel bikes because of the name are ideal for that sort of surface and so tyres designed for them should be as well but a gravel bike is really a bike that's probably more road orientated and "can handle" some gravel as opposed to excelling at it (and ideally not as aggressive as that) in contrast to a road bike which would be unbearable on that.

I’m setting up a bike for the Eroica in October which requires me to do just that.

Reading through a lot of previous posts on this forum has made me aware that there are premium tires that are likely to provide better performance than the Gatorskins I have been accustomed to using. I’m seeking help here because both sets of tires I have purchased thus far haven’t fit properly and I’m hoping to minimize the number of additional purchase I’ll have to make to get this right.

For l’Eroica in Gaiole this October, I’ll need tires that

· are unlikely to puncture,
· will provide some grip on loose gravel,
· won’t create too much rolling resistance on pavement,
· will provide some grip on wet pavement,
· will fit in my frame, and
· won’t leave me weeping, cursing, and breaking fingernails as I attempt to deal with a flat while out on the course.

I’m setting up a 1985 Bianchi Stelvio for the event. The wheels are Mavic “Module E2” 700Cs. (I have not measured the rim width, but I’m assuming that it is a standard 23mm ID.) Thus far I have mounted a set of Gatorskin 32mm tires only to discover that the rear tire (predictably I suppose) won’t clear the brake bridge. The inflated Gatorskins measure out at 30mm, so I’m dealing with a pretty restricted clearance area. I replaced them with Panaracer 28mm tires which have a significantly lower profile and seem suitable but for two reservations. First, it took a bead jack and a fair amount of profanity to mount them. Secondly, the inflated tires measure out at just slightly over 26mm, leaving me with a smaller contact patch than I’d like to have. I don’t expect to have to deal with mud, so tire clearance is less an issue than grit on these roads. (The likelihood of rain and grit is the reason I’m building an event-specific beater instead of attempting to go the “concours” route.)

I’d appreciate the benefit of someone’s experience in selecting a tire that is likely to fit in my frame and has the characteristics listed above, in particular, one that I’m likely to be able to change on the road without too much agony.

Yes, I’m willing to carry a bead jack and a really large tire lever in my kit. And yes, I’m also willing to carry a spare folding tire as well. I have seen photos of event participants sporting small backpacks as well as musette bags, so I’m assuming that carrying emergency repair items that won’t fit under the seat will be permitted.
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Old 06-04-19, 09:41 AM
  #44  
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I like a 45-50mm tire that is supple. Small knobs are okay, but a supple smooth tire works fine on packed gravel and pavement too.

Where gravel gets tricky is when there is a hard packed track or two with progressively more loose gavel to the center and sides and often approaching a short bridge or other concrete section. Running off into the loose stuff can dump you if you aren't prepared.

I'm running WTB Horizon 650x47mm tires now and have a pair of WTB Resolute 650x42mm waiting for a 100+ mile gravel rail trail trip this summer.
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Old 06-04-19, 10:17 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert
Everyone says wide and low pressure. Yes. Now include a supple casing. And in gravel like that there will always be a bit of slip and slide, so keep the saddle down. The lower the saddle the easier the recovery. It might feel like you gave up some power at first, you will adjust.
I have genuinely never heard this about gravel riding. I havent done it and havent seen it done by others out on roads or at rides and races.
My gravel bike's saddle is the same height to BB as my road bikes. Thats because gravel roads are still roads. There isnt exactly much technical about it overall. And yes I get that gravel varies from state to state or even county to county.

I would think a 60mi ride with the saddle dropped with simply suck. No fun at all.
Perhaps I am not envisioning this correctly.
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Old 06-04-19, 10:42 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
I have genuinely never heard this about gravel riding. I havent done it and havent seen it done by others out on roads or at rides and races.
My gravel bike's saddle is the same height to BB as my road bikes. Thats because gravel roads are still roads. There isnt exactly much technical about it overall. And yes I get that gravel varies from state to state or even county to county.

I would think a 60mi ride with the saddle dropped with simply suck. No fun at all.
Perhaps I am not envisioning this correctly.
Lower saddle means lower center of gravity. Lower is more stable. Ever hear of a dropper post? There is a reason people are willing to pay money and endure complexity to have dropper posts. Perhaps you have noticed where trials riders or stunt riders put the saddle?

I don't own two bikes with same saddle height. And change saddle height from time to time just because. Bikes work fine with different saddle heights.

It gets technical the moment you start to slip and fall. Recovering from a slip is going to be mostly about rider technique. Having the technical aspects of the bike in easiest and most flexible starting position makes staying up much easier. OP broke a leg. Doesn't want to do it again.
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Old 06-04-19, 12:27 PM
  #47  
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Old 06-07-19, 09:41 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert
Lower saddle means lower center of gravity. Lower is more stable. Ever hear of a dropper post? There is a reason people are willing to pay money and endure complexity to have dropper posts. Perhaps you have noticed where trials riders or stunt riders put the saddle?

I don't own two bikes with same saddle height. And change saddle height from time to time just because. Bikes work fine with different saddle heights.

It gets technical the moment you start to slip and fall. Recovering from a slip is going to be mostly about rider technique. Having the technical aspects of the bike in easiest and most flexible starting position makes staying up much easier. OP broke a leg. Doesn't want to do it again.
Just came across this- i forgot you responded a couple days because I read it, laughed, and dismissed it as completely absurd.

Lower is more stable, sure. A bike with a lower bottom bracket is more stable than one with a higher bottom bracket. Agreed there.
And yes I have heard of a dropper post. I know what they are and have experience with them.
Oh, and many of my bikes have different saddle heights. This is due to the bottom bracket drop being different from frame to frame. But my saddle height isnt different just for the hell of it...that would be absurd.

I disagree that riding gravel requires, or even benefits from, a lower saddle height. Doing so will create fit issues for most(you apparently being the exception). Why anyone would ride 60, 30, or even 15mi of gravel roads with a saddle in the dropped position is beyond me. That sounds like a grueling exercise and completely unnecessary.

Gravel roads are simply roads that arent paved. A bike with endurance road bike angles and room for wider tires is really all thats needed. There is nothing technical about a gravel road compared to the activities you mention- technical downhill MTB or stunt riding.

I have honestly never seen someone riding gravel roads with their saddle dropped. I havent seen in in person, I havent seen it in magazines, and I havent seen pics on the internet. A dropped saddle could be beneficial for short segments of very steep gravel descents that are twisty or loose. That is entirely different from what you are suggesting though.

You do you and ride an ill-fitting bike for miles and miles of gravel.
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Old 06-07-19, 09:58 AM
  #49  
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The Trek Marlin is a 29-er MTB, yet many are recommending narrower 700c gravel bike tires.

I love riding gravel on a more road-style drop bar gravel bike, but in this case I would stay wide MTB tire.
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Old 06-07-19, 03:58 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Oh, and many of my bikes have different saddle heights. This is due to the bottom bracket drop being different from frame to frame. But my saddle height isnt different just for the hell of it...that would be absurd.
Why would you're saddle height be different because of a different bottom bracket drop .... saddle height is measured from the center of the bottom bracket as opposed to from the floor .... unless I and an awful lot of people have been getting it wrong for a long time???
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