non-fixie 

Well, it seems my first reply ' from the hip' was premature. I just had a closer look, and I don't think it's an EKLA, not a "D" anyway. It doesn't have the "arty" cutouts. More likely a Vagner No 11.

I checked my pre-champion mondial Gazelle racer, and found what looks like the same crown:

juvela

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Grazie Mille Don non-fixie.

Judging by the headlugs on the non-Thompson's it may be one of Mrs. non-fixie's steeds.

That TOP 63 set must be worth a house payment.

"Woe be unto he who doth not make tight eno' the nut on his Top 63 mounting bolt!"

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alexnagui

I also checked my fork and the crown is not an Ekla crown, as far as I can see.
Still have to clean the fork and everything else

alexnagui

Those are more like proper bike stores, I suppose. Will check them out as well
Dancing lessons! Me and my girlfriend are starting Lindy Hop next week. Which dance are you doing?

juvela

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OMG!

Took lessons for the Lindy..........exactly sixty years ago.

Well, we did have automobiles with electric starting.

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JaccoW

Zwaan is a classic bike shop but specializes in Bromptons and SimpleBikeStore is more of a higher end fixie, gravel and commuter bike store. They have some drool worthy bikes.

Argentine tango. I did a lot of dancing when I was younger, mostly disco, street dance and lots of different things when I was in theatre (some ballroom, tap and modern jazz) but tango is the first one I took up with my girlfriend.

verktyg 

Tango Foxtrot Charlie

verktyg

non-fixie 

You, sir, are a true uomo universale.

alexnagui

Do you still remember the moves?

You seem like a complete pro!

juvela

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That's a good one!

Went to a regular professional dance studio with fellow students from my junior high school (middle school in modern U.S. parlance).

We learned waltz, foxtrot, lindy & cha cha. Foxtrot and Lindy seemed "passe" even then!

Recall very little. Never used the training after about age fourteen.

Placed second in the class's waltz contest.*

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* but then I had a wonderful partner.

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Bad Lag

My comment about "BONDO!" was meant as a bit of a joke.

Can that dent be rolled/squeezed out? I don't see a crease.

alexnagui

Do you mean something like this? I don't think that it's gonna work for me because the dent is quite small

Bad Lag

Yes, that was the method I was thinking of. I've never done it, so it was just a guess/suggestion.

If you put too much grease on the blocks and tube, it will fill in the dent and prevent popping the dent out. All that excess grease has to go somewhere.

That it is small pushes me towards "do nothing". If it is really small, Bondo might work but I fear there would be a hairline crack in your paint around the patch's perimeter at the steel-Bondo interface.

alexnagui

A small update on the project. I've been cleaning/overhauling some of the parts like brakes, derailleurs, etc. lately.
The rear wheel which came with the bike is not original and quite heavy (steel rim) so I was looking for a replacement.

I got this wheelset this week. It's a pair of Pelissier 1001 Competition high flange hubs laced in Weinmann aluminium rims. They are not high-end wheels but most importantly they are French with a front hub with OLD of 96mm. The fork of Olympia Sport I own is also meant for French hubs. Many old Dutch bikes are built in this way, I believe. I am gonna keep looking for a Normandy high flange rear hub in case I want to make this Gazelle all original.



Spent some time cleaning the wheels


The hubs are pretty shiny now



Weinmann rims

gvalcarcel

Nice machine!!!

alexnagui

I finally cleaned the frame and the fork yesterday. While cleaning the fork, I noticed that there is a layer of blue paint underneath. It's not primer, is it? Does this suggest that it might be not original ot the frame? The frame doesn't seem to have that..

I used SKS Wash Your Bike on the frameset which is not that agressive, I believe. But sadly enough, the fork 531 decals couldn't handle that. The paint was litteraly washed away almost immediately. Does this mean that there was no clear coat applied on them? This could also suggest the respay of the fork, I guess..



Bits of blue paint are visible here and there



Reynolds decals look quite saddish now

JaccoW

That's a shame. Your paint shoulnd't be washing off like that but perhaps the SKS wash was too aggressive for the bike. I usually just use car shampoo.
As for the decals, fortunately you can get new ones fairly easily: UnlimitedColors

alexnagui

Thanks for the link, Jacco. I didn't know about that website.

Only the decals have been affected by the washing, the paint of the fork is intact. I might look for some other washing stuff though

alexnagui

Finally, I started re-assembling everything yesterday but came across of a problem with the headset. I just couldn't get the adjustment right, it seemed to be alright with the steerer pointed straight ahead and turning it all the way to the right. However there was noticeable amount of play already at 10-15 degrees to the left from the straight position.

The crown race is not perfect and has some pitting but it doesn't seem to be the main problem. After reading this thread, I suspect that the cups (head races) haven't been installed properly and fear that the head tube hasn't been faced properly. I still have to remove the cups to check that but with the cups installed it looks like there hasn't been done any facing at all.




Upper head race



Upper head race. Front view



Bottom head race

juvela

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would begin by milling ends of head tube

use of a chamfer cutter will allow head races to seat more deeply and produce a more finished look with all together

milling of head tube will likely solve problem

if it does not then you will need to move to fork crown milling

very nice work being done there!

look forward to following along

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alexnagui

Thanks for advice, juvela! I will try to do milling of the head tube once I get the proper tool for it . Will post an update here

juvela

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VAR Nr. 03 flat head tube mill [new nr. CD-03220-45]-



Visit page nr. 4 here -

Mise en page 1https://vartools.com/fr/download.php?l=EN

Park Tool Illustrated Guide -

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...ing-and-facing

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alexnagui

VAR are quality tools but unfortunately they cost a fortune. Cyclus Tools makes integrated reamer/facers which should work as well, I believe. I read that reaming should be performed separately from facing but also read positive feedbacks about using Cyclus Tools head tube reamer/facer's. Do you have any experience with those?

juvela

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no experience of Cyclus

purchased me cutters decades ago, probably long prior to their launch

see from current VAR catalogue that they seem to have discontinued the chamfer cutter i was thinking for use with regular headsets

would think you would come out far ahead to have it done by a framebuilde, or use the cutters at a co-op if you are fortunate enough to have one within a reasonable distance equipped with the tools...

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non-fixie 

Cyclus is pretty big. I own a pair of dropout adjusters made by them. Reviews are mixed, but my experience so far is not bad. YMMV.