What's the weak link in my new brake setup?
#1
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
What's the weak link in my new brake setup?
My previous brake (a feeble old Dia-Compe that came on my bike new in 87) didn't do jack to stop me and would barely slow me down, even with new pads. Today I upgraded to a Tektro R536 hoping that it would give me the stopping power I desire. I think I have it all dialed in right (centered, ~2mm gap, fully on the braking surface) but it still won't stop me fast enough to go over the handlebars. Not that that's the point but IMO a good brake should be capable of it.
So I ask you, BFSSFG, what is the weak link in my brake setup that I should adjust/upgrade?
-Specialized Cross lever
-Tektro R536 brake
-Whatever pads came on it
-Braking surface is an Eighthinch Amelia rim.
Yes, I know my brake lever shim is ugly.
So I ask you, BFSSFG, what is the weak link in my brake setup that I should adjust/upgrade?
-Specialized Cross lever
-Tektro R536 brake
-Whatever pads came on it
-Braking surface is an Eighthinch Amelia rim.
Yes, I know my brake lever shim is ugly.
#3
Still kicking.
Cable is wayyyyy too short.
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#5
Senior Member
The cable is loose in your picture, there is too much play. I can see the end sticking out at the brake handle end. It should be all the way in the hole.
#6
Still kicking.
If that was capped, it's fine, but if he needs to disengage the caliper, he could be in for a rude awakening and there is not enough cable showing for an end plug.
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#8
Your cog is slipping.
Also check that the inner cable is moving through the housing smoothly and the ends aren't crushed where you cut them.
#9
Goes to 11.
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wichita, KS, USA
Posts: 2,547
Bikes: 2015 Soma Double Cross
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If the cable is new, it may be stretching. You'll probably need to pull the cable again after some miles. In fact, pull it again now, and fix whatever's causing the end to bind up in the lever like that. If you give yourself a couple inches of length, the cable's a lot easier to pull as well.
#10
THE STUFFED
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 12,671
Bikes: R. Sachs Road; EAI Bareknuckle; S-Works Enduro
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
17 Posts
In your case, the pads; tektro pads do not have enough stopping power in my opinion; get kool stop salmon inserts and you can stop on a dime or go over the bars if you want.
Other than that, the weakest link in any decent brake setup would be the cable, if it snaps when you need the stopping power of a physical brake, bad things happen. Just putting it out there, even through you ride fixed.
EDIT: if you do decide to go for the pad upgrade, grab the "ultegra/ shimano" version; tektro is basically the generic copy of shimano.
Other than that, the weakest link in any decent brake setup would be the cable, if it snaps when you need the stopping power of a physical brake, bad things happen. Just putting it out there, even through you ride fixed.
EDIT: if you do decide to go for the pad upgrade, grab the "ultegra/ shimano" version; tektro is basically the generic copy of shimano.
__________________
¿pɐǝɹ oʇ sᴉ sᴉɥʇ ƃuᴉʎouuɐ ʍoɥ ǝǝs
¿pɐǝɹ oʇ sᴉ sᴉɥʇ ƃuᴉʎouuɐ ʍoɥ ǝǝs
Last edited by Leukybear; 07-19-11 at 09:18 PM.
#11
Your cog is slipping.
Jeez...now that I look again, I see what you mean. I thought you were talking about the whole cable/housing between the lever and caliper.
#12
Still kicking.
Yeah the only thing worse than diacomp pads are tektro brake pads. Definitely get something more competent.
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#13
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,757
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1331 Post(s)
Liked 764 Times
in
431 Posts
The cable end is too large to sit flush in the lever. A different cable with a smaller barrel would work better with that lever.
#14
sɹɐʇsɟoןןnɟsʇıbɟɯo
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: seattle, too many links
Posts: 3,986
Bikes: fixed gear recumbent trike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
i never had "flip over the bars" braking power until i got dura ace brake(s)
******** expensive just to be able to endo, but still
but the kool stops are close (have them on my tektros on other bike(s))
******** expensive just to be able to endo, but still
but the kool stops are close (have them on my tektros on other bike(s))
#16
Still kicking.
Also, why does that look like a deraillieur cable?
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#17
surly old man
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 3,392
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 42 Times
in
18 Posts
I think that "shim" might be contributing to the problem. Hard to tell from the picture but it seems like the lever is not completely square to the bar. I wonder if the lever has enough room, at that angle, to be pulled as far as it should.
But more likely is simply that the clamp is rocking back and forth a bit on that shim when you use the lever. Even moving a degree or two there will steal considerable leverage. Put a hard shim under it and clamp it down tight.
jim
But more likely is simply that the clamp is rocking back and forth a bit on that shim when you use the lever. Even moving a degree or two there will steal considerable leverage. Put a hard shim under it and clamp it down tight.
jim
__________________
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
#18
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Sorry for big pics. I'm a very visual learner...
This. The lever was meant to be used in tandem with a regular drop bar lever so the hole won't fit a barrel (even the small kind)
And dan - Here's a pic of how much cable I have past the pinch point. So I should get a new cable and make sure there's a good 2-3 inches extra? The quick release slackens it up enough to get the front wheel off.
And here's the pad gap. Is this really too much slack?
I'll try to pick up some koolstops after work tomorrow.
And dan - Here's a pic of how much cable I have past the pinch point. So I should get a new cable and make sure there's a good 2-3 inches extra? The quick release slackens it up enough to get the front wheel off.
And here's the pad gap. Is this really too much slack?
I'll try to pick up some koolstops after work tomorrow.
Last edited by EpicSchwinn; 07-19-11 at 09:34 PM.
#19
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I think that "shim" might be contributing to the problem. Hard to tell from the picture but it seems like the lever is not completely square to the bar. I wonder if the lever has enough room, at that angle, to be pulled as far as it should.
But more likely is simply that the clamp is rocking back and forth a bit on that shim when you use the lever. Even moving a degree or two there will steal considerable leverage. Put a hard shim under it and clamp it down tight.
jim
But more likely is simply that the clamp is rocking back and forth a bit on that shim when you use the lever. Even moving a degree or two there will steal considerable leverage. Put a hard shim under it and clamp it down tight.
jim
#20
Still kicking.
This. The lever was meant to be used in tandem with a regular drop bar lever so the hole won't fit a barrel (even the small kind)
And dan - Here's a pic of how much cable I have past the pinch point. So I should get a new cable and make sure there's a good 2-3 inches extra? The quick release slackens it up enough to get the front wheel off.
And here's the pad gap. Is this really too much slack?
I'll try to pick up some koolstops after work tomorrow.
And dan - Here's a pic of how much cable I have past the pinch point. So I should get a new cable and make sure there's a good 2-3 inches extra? The quick release slackens it up enough to get the front wheel off.
And here's the pad gap. Is this really too much slack?
I'll try to pick up some koolstops after work tomorrow.
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#21
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I'll go see what kind of cables I have lying around. I may just bore out the hole in the lever ever so slightly. The hole is only a hair too thin and since most cables have a pretty standard sized barrel on them it might be difficult to find one that's unusually small.
#22
Still kicking.
Get new, never reuse used cable. Standard shimano brake cable will work and the head will fit.
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#23
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Got it.
I'll just work on the lever shim for now then.
Thanks for the help!
I'll just work on the lever shim for now then.
Thanks for the help!
#24
Goes to 11.
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wichita, KS, USA
Posts: 2,547
Bikes: 2015 Soma Double Cross
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#25
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,757
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1331 Post(s)
Liked 764 Times
in
431 Posts
Calipers flex, cable housings deform, brake pad material compresses, brake levers flex, cable ends seat into the levers etc. But steel cable does not stretch. If it did it would break. It is also so stiff that it stretches elastically so little as to have no impact on the firmness of the braking.