squirtdad

FB..... I have to disagree

I am old enough to have seen the difference. the quality of my single speed coast to coast bike (Schwinn clone 26 in mid weight) I got when I as six (now 62 years ago) was way higher the the quality of this bike (based on ones I have worked on). That coast to coast had hard use for 8 years until I got a 3 speed, then my brother ran it for years pulling a trailer with his lawn mower.

sure the OP's bike can be ridden, but no money should be put into it IMHO

FBinNY 

So I have a few (10+) years on you. I agree that overall quality is non comparable in many ways, but I put countless miles on bikes with steel rims, pressed steel (highly flexy) side pull brakes, rubbrr or pressed steel riveted pedals, etc.

This isn't a bike I would spend dough to buy or put dough into, but the OP already owns it, and plans to use it as a beater. I truly don't see any reason why he can't.

If/when something breaks, the OP can revisit whether it's worth fixing. But there's no reason to worry about that now.

As I said earlier, I'd toss a decent seat on it because I'm fussy about comfort. Then when the time comes, keep the seat and toss the bike, or put the original back on and yard sale it for $50 or whatever.

Meanwhile, I'd have gotten a season's use of a beater for next to nothing.

Bill Kapaun

Ask them what they think about upgrading your frame. They deal with a lot of low end bikes.
Maybe they have a much better "foundation" (frame) to build on in their used stuff.

Duragrouch

OP: Saw your pic, hilarious, dirt cheap bike that looks like a track racer frame.

I haven't yet read all the replies.

You can true wheels without a truing stand, I've done it all my life. I just true on the bike. Take the tire and tube off for access to outside of rim to true radially. I attach a wood stick (like coffee stirrer) to frame or fork to check radial runout, and another stick to check lateral runout. I attach sticks with either tape, or binder clip or some other spring clamp.

Upgrading to more gears: Depends on the rear frame dropout spacing on the inside of the frame, aka Outer Locknut Distance (OLD). If 130 mm or 135 mm, you can easily find a suitable rear wheel that can do multiple cogs. Narrower, like 126 mm, you may be able to spring the frame apart to 130 mm, if the frame is steel, NOT aluminum. Narrower OLD than that, forget it. I'm sure there is no rear derailleur mount, not with horizontal dropouts, but you can use a claw mount rear derailleur, either buying a claw mount and using a separate derailleur, or using a derailler with claw mount built-in. I used the latter on my folding bike with no rear derailleur mount, works fabulous, $13. That setup will give you 7 or 8 speeds, and if you needed wide range gears, you can go modern and do a typical ultra-wide-range rear cassette (1X, or one-by setup), or install a double or triple crank in front and front derailleur and shifter.

Personally, I think it's best to leave the bike as-is, no investment, provided your commute is flat and you don't need more gears.

DVC45

Get the most of what you paid for. Aside from the tires, replace parts only when it breaks.

grumpus

An internal hub gear (IGH) would be ideal for this, you might get lucky and find a Sturmey Archer with a drum brake that will slot right in, and work even if the rim gets dented. All you need to true wheels is a good spoke key (this is important, a cheap key will lead to frustration and damage) a basic understanding of the task and some patience.

robcor2

I've listened to advice and have decided brakes and a bottom bracket are the things to upgrade. Getting a a used brake set from local co-op for cheap. Am doing a couple other upgrades, but things that will go to next bike with me, such as wheelset, shopping market place until I find one , and seat and post. Got some cheap fenders. It's surprisingly comfortable to ride. Since the bike was basically free, not too much money. I almost exclusively buy used and the co-op is a great resource. I'm probably also gonna replace pedals with good used, but, again they will go with next bike when and if it comes time

RoadWearier

If you want to be really cheap, try taking the pads off and scuffing them either with coarse sandpaper or I've even just scrubbed them on pavement. Then CLEAN OFF ALL GRIT. Then put them back on. The cheaper brake pads get hard and glazed over time but underneath that they might be ok. Something to try to relieve noise before you spend half the value of that bike on Kool Stops. Also Google toe in, toe out and bicycle brakes. Angle is important too.

Geepig

Getting things you can take to the next bike is the best, things that you cannot are probably not worth the money.

When this bike gets to the end of the road I would strip it down. That gives you a potential supply of bits that you can reuse, or use to help to fix your next bike or someone else's. Hang the bare frame and the fork on a nail at the back of the shed, job done.