Band brake sux & convert to caliper
03-01-20, 04:37 AM
#1
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Band brake sux & convert to caliper
Replaced the old rusty band brake with a new one.
it stopping power is good....but it has a smalle bit of drag.
if I adjust it so there's no drag, then the hand lever hit the handlebar.
if I adjust so lever DOnt hit handlebar, then there's constant tiny bit of drag on the beake drum.
I want to install caliper brake instead...but theres no brake bridge.
it stopping power is good....but it has a smalle bit of drag.
if I adjust it so there's no drag, then the hand lever hit the handlebar.
if I adjust so lever DOnt hit handlebar, then there's constant tiny bit of drag on the beake drum.
I want to install caliper brake instead...but theres no brake bridge.
Last edited by mtb_addict; 03-01-20 at 04:51 AM.
03-01-20, 05:10 AM
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If you are creative you could work out something. For example, you could look for a brake lever where the cable is further from the pivot, so the cable moves further.
You may be better off investing the money in another bike.
You may be better off investing the money in another bike.
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03-01-20, 07:38 AM
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You may be on to something; since the stopping power is good, trade force for cable pull.
03-01-20, 09:33 PM
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03-02-20, 03:45 AM
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An Arai drum brake from a vintage tandem has the same thread pitch/diameter as that band brake you are using. I converted a tricycle once. Super easy, worked well. I don't remember what the brake lever pull ratio though, so there is that to think through. Whichever it was, it was the "other" ratio than that of the band brake.
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03-02-20, 12:03 PM
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If he does, it'll be another POS with its own issues...
03-02-20, 09:18 PM
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Have you adjusted the band positioning screws? One is visible in the last photo sticking straight up (the 12:00 position on the band's housing).
Back in the late 1970s we saw a number of these band brakes on Fujis. We would set the band as close to the drum at the points the screws controlled. This lessened the amount of band to drum gap that had to be closed up with cable/lever pull. But in general these types of band brakes have a lower "performance" then most all other types of brakes. Band rub/lever pull amount/stopping "power" all are moving targets and are balanced against each other. I also have augmented the release spring with another on the cable between the anchor bolt and the housing stop, much like some drum brakes that don't release fully these band brakes don't have a strong spring. Andy
I will say that in the few dozen of these I've worked on I have never even considered the replacement of the band. It has a very long life. Andy
Back in the late 1970s we saw a number of these band brakes on Fujis. We would set the band as close to the drum at the points the screws controlled. This lessened the amount of band to drum gap that had to be closed up with cable/lever pull. But in general these types of band brakes have a lower "performance" then most all other types of brakes. Band rub/lever pull amount/stopping "power" all are moving targets and are balanced against each other. I also have augmented the release spring with another on the cable between the anchor bolt and the housing stop, much like some drum brakes that don't release fully these band brakes don't have a strong spring. Andy
I will say that in the few dozen of these I've worked on I have never even considered the replacement of the band. It has a very long life. Andy
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