Converting MTB to Road
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Converting MTB to Road
I have an old GT Talera MTB, steel frame, no suspension, all old parts (Tourney, 200GS) that I'd like to convert to a cheap road bike if possible, since its a stiff frame, I wonder if that would be possible. I have a budget of $250 to buy new parts.
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Put the thinnest tires you can on the bike. Lower the stem as far as you can go and maybe add bar ends so you can get lower. Add some clipless pedals.
Other than that. I wouldn't spend much money on it. For $250 you may be able to find a cheap used road bike that will be much faster than a modified mountain bike.
Other than that. I wouldn't spend much money on it. For $250 you may be able to find a cheap used road bike that will be much faster than a modified mountain bike.
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I would sell the MTB for what you can on craigslist, and use that money plus the $250 to find a good entry to mid-level used road bike on craigslist.
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I converted my old Specialized Rockhopper to a quazi road bike with 1 1/8" tires and clipless road pedals. When I put the seat up as high as I needed it for the road my bars were about 10cm below the saddle so I didn't need to change the stem. I am going to add bar ends for better hand position options. I am pretty happy with it, even though it tips the scale at 32.5#.
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Originally Posted by Plte
Put the thinnest tires you can on the bike. Lower the stem as far as you can go and maybe add bar ends so you can get lower. Add some clipless pedals.
Other than that. I wouldn't spend much money on it. For $250 you may be able to find a cheap used road bike that will be much faster than a modified mountain bike.
Other than that. I wouldn't spend much money on it. For $250 you may be able to find a cheap used road bike that will be much faster than a modified mountain bike.
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Switching to 700c means new wheels, tires, cassette, chain (if the brakes even reach)
Drop bars mean new brake levers & shifter levers too.
Compatibility is an issue when switching drivetrain components, so you have to plan that ahead of time (7 speed, 8 speed, cassette, freewheel, indexing ....)
If you want a road bike, buy a road bike.
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Put the skinniest tires you can find that will fit on your rims. So if your current tires are 26 x 1.75 knobbies, maybe you can find 26 x 1.25 slicks. Just tires & tubes and you're ready to go.
Switching to 700c means new wheels, tires, cassette, chain (if the brakes even reach)
Drop bars mean new brake levers & shifter levers too.
Compatibility is an issue when switching drivetrain components, so you have to plan that ahead of time (7 speed, 8 speed, cassette, freewheel, indexing ....)
Switching to 700c means new wheels, tires, cassette, chain (if the brakes even reach)
Drop bars mean new brake levers & shifter levers too.
Compatibility is an issue when switching drivetrain components, so you have to plan that ahead of time (7 speed, 8 speed, cassette, freewheel, indexing ....)
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You can only fit 26" wheels on your bike... unless it's a 29er mountain bike.
And yes you can put drop bars on a mountain bike, but you would probably want to get new brake levers/shifters and redo your cables and housing.
And yes you can put drop bars on a mountain bike, but you would probably want to get new brake levers/shifters and redo your cables and housing.
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+1
MTB's are much heavier than a road bike. With conversion, they will never be as light or fast as a racing bike.
For $250 ($350 with selling MTB) you can get a mid-high end racing bike in the 10-20 year range off craigslist or ebay, or much less at garage sales or thrift stores.
For example, I recently got a 21 lb. steel racing bike with full Ultegra in near mint condition off craigslist. 21 lb. is fairly heavy compared to new CF bikes, but much lighter than a 30+ lb converted MTB.