Hybrid crankset and rear casette
12-16-20, 11:28 AM
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Hybrid crankset and rear casette
I just got a cannondale adventure. Someone stripped most all of the components from it. I知 building it back up.
It has 170 crank arms and I wanna upgrade crankset and get one with longer crank arms since I知 a big dude. How do I determine the right specs?
the crank on it now has 3 chain rings the largest chain ring has 48 teeth the smallest has 28. The tube measures 73mm across. What bottom bracket do I need? Can I use the bottom bracket I already have?
what specs do I need to buy new rear cassette? It痴 a 7speed.
what specs fo I need to order front derailleur? The tube is 32mm. Can I use a MTB derailleur?
Thought about replacing the rear derailleur too. Can I use a MTB derailleur?
It has 170 crank arms and I wanna upgrade crankset and get one with longer crank arms since I知 a big dude. How do I determine the right specs?
the crank on it now has 3 chain rings the largest chain ring has 48 teeth the smallest has 28. The tube measures 73mm across. What bottom bracket do I need? Can I use the bottom bracket I already have?
what specs do I need to buy new rear cassette? It痴 a 7speed.
what specs fo I need to order front derailleur? The tube is 32mm. Can I use a MTB derailleur?
Thought about replacing the rear derailleur too. Can I use a MTB derailleur?
12-18-20, 07:26 AM
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Hello, Robert. You have quite a list of items here.
Regarding the bottom bracket, a crankset will have a bottom bracket spindle length recommendation from the manufacturer. These are often not easy to find and you may need to call the manufacturer of the crankset to get this information. So your current bottom bracket may or may not be the right size (length) for your replacement crankset. You'll need to measure the spindle length and compare that to the specs for the crankset you intend to buy. Shimano and Suntour both have many crankset models with 175mm length crank arms...these are probably the two manufacturers that will have the most selection and also the most reasonable prices.
Regarding the cassette, if you're sure it's a cassette (and not a freewheel), then any 7-speed cassette will work. If the original cassette is still there, then match the sprocket tooth specs for a direct replacement (it's likely an 11-28, meaning the smallest sprocket has 11 teeth and the largest sprocket has 28 teeth). Other sprocket counts are available as well, but the most common configuration you'll find is 11-28. It may have a freewheel instead of a cassette. Freewheels are threaded to the hub instead of slide over a splined freehub body like cassettes are. Freewheels will commonly have a 14-tooth smallest sprocket -- if your existing rear cluster has a small sprocket with 14 teeth, it's likely a freewheel. In either case, a special socket tool is required to remove the part. If the original component is not there, then you will need the special socket tool to install if it's a cassette. If it's a freewheel, you don't need the special tool -- you can just thread it on by hand and the force of pedaling forward will work to tighten the freewheel to the hub. Just be sure to grease the freewheel threads first before installation.
Regarding the front derailleur, 31.8mm is a common front clamp size for front derailleurs, and that'll work for your seat tube. You can also make a 34.9mm clamp size work with some shims. If you buy the right combination of crankset and bottom bracket (see above), then your chainline should be "about right" for a MTB/hybrid setup and most MTB clamp-on front derailleurs will work fine. I'd recommend something like a Shimano FD-M3000 (though there is a slew of front derailleurs that will probably work). An FD-M3000 should be relatively easy to find (it's a current design) and it's not a high dollar part.
Regarding the rear derailleur, just about any current 7/8/9 speed rear derailleur should work well. Staying in the Shimano line, an RD-M360 or RD-T3000 would probably work nicely. Again, there's a whole shed-load of rear derailleurs that are appropriate for your configuration and it wouldn't be practical to list every one that should work well. But the M360 or T3000 will get you in the right direction.
Regarding the bottom bracket, a crankset will have a bottom bracket spindle length recommendation from the manufacturer. These are often not easy to find and you may need to call the manufacturer of the crankset to get this information. So your current bottom bracket may or may not be the right size (length) for your replacement crankset. You'll need to measure the spindle length and compare that to the specs for the crankset you intend to buy. Shimano and Suntour both have many crankset models with 175mm length crank arms...these are probably the two manufacturers that will have the most selection and also the most reasonable prices.
Regarding the cassette, if you're sure it's a cassette (and not a freewheel), then any 7-speed cassette will work. If the original cassette is still there, then match the sprocket tooth specs for a direct replacement (it's likely an 11-28, meaning the smallest sprocket has 11 teeth and the largest sprocket has 28 teeth). Other sprocket counts are available as well, but the most common configuration you'll find is 11-28. It may have a freewheel instead of a cassette. Freewheels are threaded to the hub instead of slide over a splined freehub body like cassettes are. Freewheels will commonly have a 14-tooth smallest sprocket -- if your existing rear cluster has a small sprocket with 14 teeth, it's likely a freewheel. In either case, a special socket tool is required to remove the part. If the original component is not there, then you will need the special socket tool to install if it's a cassette. If it's a freewheel, you don't need the special tool -- you can just thread it on by hand and the force of pedaling forward will work to tighten the freewheel to the hub. Just be sure to grease the freewheel threads first before installation.
Regarding the front derailleur, 31.8mm is a common front clamp size for front derailleurs, and that'll work for your seat tube. You can also make a 34.9mm clamp size work with some shims. If you buy the right combination of crankset and bottom bracket (see above), then your chainline should be "about right" for a MTB/hybrid setup and most MTB clamp-on front derailleurs will work fine. I'd recommend something like a Shimano FD-M3000 (though there is a slew of front derailleurs that will probably work). An FD-M3000 should be relatively easy to find (it's a current design) and it's not a high dollar part.
Regarding the rear derailleur, just about any current 7/8/9 speed rear derailleur should work well. Staying in the Shimano line, an RD-M360 or RD-T3000 would probably work nicely. Again, there's a whole shed-load of rear derailleurs that are appropriate for your configuration and it wouldn't be practical to list every one that should work well. But the M360 or T3000 will get you in the right direction.
