euclidean plane

I've had my bike for 4 years, the tires are so thin, or something about it, that every time I ride it in my city I end up getting a headache because I feel like every vibration, it also hurts my wrists sometimes too when I haven't ridden it for a long time.


I need help picking a new bike, I know almost nothing about bikes.

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/sear...spx?id=3045409

That is my current bike that's causing me problems...

I'd really like to get a bike that can support a rack, something to travel long distances with...


please help please please I have no one else to turn to..

Maelochs

it looks like a pretty decent bike ... a couple hundred for one of those would be a good deal, even with the 4600 instead of 4700 Tiagra.

I have to assume the bike doesn't fit you, it isn't set up to fit you, or you don't put enough weight on your legs, or all three.

The only other thing would be nothing but terrible pavement .... but then you would feel the difference, I think.

Headache and sore wrists bespeak too much weight on the bars, tense upper body (tired and stiff from trying to hold too much weight) and resulting neck and headache problems.) bars too low would aggravate all of that and add neck strain from trying to look up all the time.

I ride a lower price, lower spec Dawes built up to about that spec ... and it is fine for exactly what you want to do. Rack on the back, snacks and liquids, lights and a light jacket and go however long I want.

CrankyOne

What do you consider long distances? Are you thinking 20 miles each way to work or 100 miles per day for several days touring the country? Makes a huge difference in what bike you choose.

The bike you linked to appears all aluminum which is about as uncomfortable as they come. A good steel frame road or touring bike would be much better.

Part of your wrist problem (and headaches) could be from leaning forward. There's a reason why most people outside of the U.S. ride upright Dutch bikes for anything but racing or off-road.

More: City Bikes | LocalMile

Maelochs

Lol at that. A Lot of people ride Road Bikes on the Road, and often for long distances and don't die or even suffer.

Opafiets are great on the flatland and carrying loads. There is a reason no one rides them in the Alps.

There are any number of styles of bikes which can be ridden long distances in comfort. And any one of them will cause pain and even injury if set up wrong for the particular rider ... even an Opafiets.

If he wants to import an expensive original Dutch bike to ride .... I hope he really likes it. Whatever he rides, I hope he really likes it.

But if he never learns to set up a bike to fit him ... he wont like it.

The symptoms he lists are not generic to all road bikes ... but they are generic to all poorly adjusted bikes or bikes ridden with incorrect technique. just thought I would address his issues instead of promoting my personal solutions.

If he got a flat-bar road bike and had the bars too low he would have the same issues. Same with an Opafiets or any bike---you can't ride on your hands.

euclidean plane

like 20+ miles a day, perhaps 100+ later on when I travel

any bike suggestions would be wonderful :<

I used to have a friend who did bike stuff and he helped me set up my current bike, and buy it, I think it's set up right, I think it's just the thin tires and pavement.

I just want a bike that's like designed for long trips, and easier on vibrations

CliffordK

You might look at your current bike.

Make sure the seat is adjusted right (height, and forward/back)

What sizes of tires are you using? 700c X 25mm? How much tire clearance do you have? If you mounted a 700c X 28mm tire, or a 700c X 32mm tire, you would be able to run it at much lower pressure, and that would help a lot with the vibrations.

Possibly thicker bar tape.

I also like the winged bars. They just seem more comfortable when riding on the tops of the bars. Or, if you're careful with your cable routing, you can route them near the tops of the bars to make them seem a little flatter.

Why don't you post a photo of your actual bike. Also the bike size, and your height. Even a photo of you riding the bike.

berner

A big part of comfort on a bike is having a good fit. Is it possible your bike does not fir you well. Many posters with problems relating to fir will post photos or a video of how they look on the bike. Another part of comfort is tires properly inflated. Too high a pressure will will be harsh riding. https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/...ure-take-home/ There are a number of tire pressure charts available on the web. The link is to one such chart. Notice that the recommendations are for maximum pressure.

Another part of comfort is tire size itself. A very thin tire, such as would be used on a high performance or racing bike would require high pressure. Many such bikes will not be able to fit wider tires. Thin tires would be in the range of 22mm to about 26 mm. My bike will fit tires up to 29mm but the ride is harsh if inflated to maximum recommendation. So for a comfortable it is necessary to find the a tire size inflated to an appropriate amount for your purpose.

I would also suggest to you that a part of comfort is related to how much time one has spent on a bike because there is a certain amount of adapting that takes place.

Don't be shy about coming back with plenty more questions. That what this website is about.
Bern

Crawdaddy

Sounds like the symptoms of new bike fever. Best visit the doctors at your local bike shop right away.

euclidean plane

Basically wondering if you guys could suggest to me a nice road bike with mounts for a front / back rack and wider tires then that podium one I have, I'm certain wider tired would help...

euclidean plane

actually i don't know what a road bike is, i mean a bike I could take long distances.

Crawdaddy

Many options out there. Trek 520 a good choice

mcmoose

I think what folks are telling you is that pretty much all the major bike manufacturers (Trek, Specialized, Giant, Cannonade, etc.) offer Endurance and Touring bikes that should offer comfortable, long-distance rides.

Comfort is increased by going with carbon (or quality steel) frames, wider tires (well, really, the lower tire pressure you can run them with), padded bar tape, and (if you want to spend the bucks) carbon seat posts and/or handlebars.

But what folks are also saying is that the bike you have shouldn't be that uncomfortable, so there may be other issues at play. One is that you and your bike aren't fitted properly for one another; another is that you're running your tires at too high a pressure (and/or could go to a slightly wider tire if you have the clearance).

A third thing to consider is your posture on the bike (which is related to fitting, but riders can "defeat" a proper fit). In addition to forward/aft position, ensure that you're NOT locking your elbows... If you do, your arm will transmit the vibrations right up to your neck and head (which, yes, can cause headaches). Don't keep your wrists locked back; again, this stresses them and transmits more vibration.

You might also check the rest of your kit. Ill-fitting helmets can cause headaches, and non-padded gloves transmit more vibration.

Basically, I think folks are saying that the right bike can do a lot for a comfortable ride... but so can the right fit, kit, and riding posture. Hope you sort things out (and, yes, new bikes are more comfortable... and if they're red, they're faster too)!

euclidean plane

My tire pressure is at 80psi

I've experienced it at less then that and I know it's easier, but it still effects me even when it's at a lower pressure.

I've wrapped cotton towels around my handle bars, they've been permanently attached to the bike for over 3 years, and it still hurts my wrists.

I ride hands free often when my hands hurt, and I still gear a headache from the bumps in the road.

I ordered the bike appropriate for my height, and I had a friend who knows bikes very well set up the bike for me, so i think it's adjusted for me quite well...

I think my body is just sensitive to this stuff, and my roads suck, I need a bike with better tires in my opinion.

That Trek one looks nice I suppose, are there any other suggestions? those tires look about as thin as mine but i can't really tell.

euclidean plane

I don't use a helmet.

KemE

My friend, you should write all the specs of the bike here. Only we can help you. Otherwise, all comments made are beyond speculation.

mcmoose

I don't know a lot about touring bikes. Among the road bikes, the Trek Domane series and the Specialized Roubaix are considered very comfortable endurance bikes. Both can accommodate 28 mm tires. I'm not sure how they are for mounting racks... when you test ride them, you can ask.

Good luck on your hunt... hope you find a comfortable ride!

BlazingPedals

Based on the picture, you've got room for wider tires. wider tires at lower pressure will do a lot to absorb road vibrations. Padded gloves would help, too.

JonathanGennick 

Look into so-called "gravel bikes". Here is a drop-bar example from Specialized that comes with 45mm wide tires:

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...re/awol/115623

Kona offers a flat-bar bike with wide tires, and it looks like with fender and rack mounts:

KONA BIKES | ROAD | ROVE | Big Rove AL

Salsa dominates the gravel scene. They have numerous drop-bar bikes that take wide tires.

Also be aware of the "road plus" trend:

WTB introduces more dirt-worthy tire for Road Plus | Bicycle Retailer and Industry News

What WTB is doing is fantastic. I mounted a set of the WTB Horizon's on my bike last fall, taking it from 32mm tires to 47mm tires:

Priority Bicycles Eight and the Road Plus Revolution ? Jonathan Gennick Living in the 906

The difference is amazing. Pavement is rough, potholed, and patches upon patches where I live. The wider tires at a lower pressure smooth out a lot of the roughness. I'm ordering a set of the new Byway tires this week along with rims and new hub so that I can fully convert the bike and run it geared.

FWIW, I run the 32mm tires at 60 - 80 psi. Whereas I can easily run the Horizons at 30 psi, and I've taken them down as low a 20 psi.

Good luck w/everything. Hope you find a solution.

p.s., If Diamondback is your preferred brand, then maybe look at the Hanjo Tero. It ships with 40mm tires: https://www.diamondback.com/haanjo-tero

daviddavieboy

Like many have said, if you have no underlying health concerns then there is no reason your current should be uncomfortable with A PROPER BIKE FIT from a reputable bike shop. The best touring bicycle in the world will still feel horrible if it is not set up correctly. As far as comfort level, I don't notice much different between a touring bike and a regular road bike but obviously a touring bike can carry more.

I recently bought a Surly Cross check that might fit the bill for you. They are a good price and I find it very comfy on long rides. It can carry any rack or fenders you want to put on it. I can change tires from 25mm road tires to take it on a group rides or the 41mm off road tires for singletrack and gravel. On the downside I changed out the seat right away(it was crap) and STI road levers and brakes to make it safer for off road IMO.

Maelochs

Sorry to keep harping, but if you have that much pain, either you have unhealed and very serious stress fractures or nerve damage in your wrists ... or YOUR BIKE DOES NOT FIT.

If I came to you with huge bleeding blisters on my heels and all of my toe tips bruised and bloodied with the nails torn lose, but Assured you that my shoes fit perfectly and I just needed a pair of a different brand in the same size ...

No matter how many people here ride similar or more aggressive bikes much longer distances over much worse pavement with harder tires in comfort, you have decided that the tires are the problem and a new bike will solve everything.

Cool. Buy a new bike. Everyone here loves buying new bikes.

If you set up the new bike like the old one, .... it will be the same as forcing your feet into another pair of two sizes too small shoes.

You keep insisting that your bike fits perfectly .... but the whole of this thread is you providing evidence that it does not.

xodondum

a few suggested a steel frame, is it more comfy than alloy?

if the ride is too harsh for OP, he could use a mountain bike with full suspension (or even with just fork suspension) & road tires. it's not ideal for road riding, but it will absorb almost all road irregularities, much moreso than a rigid frame (all road bikes).

1989Pre 

A longer stem usually helps any wrist discomfort. That, combined with gel gloves, fake cork handlebar tape and 28mm tires should do the trick. Don't waste your money on a new bike.
RockBros makes a rear rack that goes seatpost-to-seatstays. You don't need eyelets or mounts.

Crawdaddy

The Trek 520 has 700x32 tires. Much better ride than your DB 700x23s. 520 has a long wheelbase and steel frame for better road vibration dampening. 520 has a higher stem angle to equalize weight distribution between handlebars and seat lessening pressure on your hands. 3 water bottle set up for long rides. Set up for racks and fenders. Its the Cadillac of road bikes thats been around the world at a fair price. Surly Trucker same pedigree. Double rap handlebar tape and your set to go.

mstateglfr 

Not even a bike shop?


As mentioned- gravel bike or touring bike. Both allow for wider tires and will have more relaxed geometry. The major and minor brands have a ton of options in these categories and they vary greatly. Google gravel bikes. Google touring bikes.

Sell your bike, get a new bike. Your bike may be set up to fit you, but it clearly doesnt(based on your comments). Not sure what more there is than to figure out a better fit for what you want.

WizardOfBoz

Ok.
What you are riding is a road bike: lightweight, fairly skinny tires, drop handlebars, and multiple speeds. If you want help, you have to be willing do a bit of work on your own to learn. Google "Road bike". Read stuff on the interweb. Other categories are track bikes (single speed lightweights with no brakes and drop bars - not appropriate for your stated goals) and mountain bikes (heavier, thicker tires, sometimes suspension, much lower gearing for climbing, usually straight bars, probably not appropriate). There's way more ways to categorize bikes. But you probably want to stick with a road bike.

There's a whole chain of events that leads to your head and wrist absorbing vibration. First, as others have mentioned, is the fit. This will get the proper weight distribution between tuchus and hands, and can have a profound effect on your efficiency. Get your current bike fit to you.

You are correct: tires and tire pressures are critical. That said, 80psi is pretty low and should be absorbing energy pretty well. The trend in tires has been to be less skinny than years ago. When I was younger, we used 21mm and 23mm wide tubular tires. Now I use 26mm wide tires (and probably should use 28mm). Wider tires allow lower pressures which absorb more road vibration, especially the higher frequency vibration. Read Jan Heine's excellent article on tire pressure here. You may be able to replace your tires with wider ones than you currently have, and run at a lower pressure. This could make your ride much more comfortable. I'd try this first, before shelling out for a new bike (the bike you have is a decent one).

The next point is wheel stiffness. Ideally you want a pretty stiff wheel - leave that for a later discussion. Next is your frame. As others here have pointed out, you have an aluminum frame. In order for aluminum frames to have the fatigue resistance necessary (that is, the strength to avoid failure due to repeated vibrations), they have to be thicker material than steel frames. This makes them stiffer. Many riders feel that a good lightweight steel frame is more comfortable. If you do get a new bike, it may be worth finding one in steel that matches your needs.

Last is handlebars and tape. If your bike is set up properly, the weight on your hands should be optimal. Towels aren't very absorptive of energy. But you can buy thicker tape that is more rubbery or "foamy" that also makes the bars a bit thicker and easier to grab onto. Some folks (me included) feel that carbon fiber handlebars absorb vibration better and are easier on your hands and aluminum bars, but they are expensive. Depending upon your seriousness, it may be worth it.

For long distances (and you should be more specific - is this doing 100 mile rides in a day, or is this 4 miles back and forth to school or work?) On good roads and trails, you probably don't want a mountain bike. The frame is heavier, and the suspension isn't really necessary and adds weight and absorbs pedaling energy. So the bike design you have is probably the right one, you may want a frame that is less stiff. Your current bike may have the proper threaded eyelets to allow mounting a rack.

My wife works in a rehab hospital that treats patients with traumatic brain injury. If you plan on riding long distances, get a helmet. On the other hand, if you plan on riding shorter distances, like quick trips to the store, then still get a helmet. And use it. Or.... you can serve as an example of Darwinian thinning. "You see that guy there in the wheelchair that can only move his thumb? And who can't talk and can only make gurgling sounds? That's what happens when you ride a bike without a helmet". Your parents, and every person that's ever loved you or helped you (including the folks on this forum) did not do so for the purpose of you leaking all that love and care out your ears and onto the pavement, dissolved in brain matter. Get a helmet and use it, or the headaches now will pale in comparison to the pain you experience later.

So:
1. Get a helmet and use it
2. Get your current bike fit to you
3. Ensure you are using the right tire pressure.
4. Assuming your "skinny" tires are 23 or 25 mm, and larger tires will fit on your bike, get larger tires and run them a lower pressures.
5. If the above measures appear to be helping, you may wish to try some thicker synthetic cork or foam tape on your bars.
6. If nothing else works, you may wish to consider straight bars and a more vertical riding position. Perhaps with bar extenders (look up Ergon bar ends to allow you a comfortable hand position.

If, after all this, you are still not happy with the vibration, you should be a more knowledgeable consumer of bikes (assuming you followed recommendation 1 and the knowledge hasn't leaked out of your brain from a traumatic brain injury). At that point, you may find a steel framed bike suits your needs better. Or, possibly, a road bike designed for better road vibration absorption, like the Trek Domane. As has been suggested above, in the extreme case you may wish to consider a mountain bike with suspension, but with road wheels. If your roads are truly horrible, this may be the most appropriate approach.