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Campy peeps....crankset question

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Old 08-02-16, 08:57 PM
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BigPoser
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Campy peeps....crankset question

I have 2014 11s Chorus with a 5 bolt crank.

My question is if a new Chorus crank that has 4 bolt/arms will be a direct fit in my Ultra Torque BB and be compatible with the rest of my group?

I'm thinking it would, but want to be sure.

I currently have a compact crank and want to find a 52/36.

Thanks in advance.

Brandon
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Old 08-02-16, 09:02 PM
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Cheaper option would be to buy the 52/36 rings for the five bolt compact crankset. You can find them on ebay.
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Old 08-02-16, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sbxx1985
Cheaper option would be to buy the 52/36 rings for the five bolt compact crankset. You can find them on ebay.
I didn't think that was possible. Aren't the BCD's different between the compact, mid-compact, and standard cranks?
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Old 08-02-16, 09:30 PM
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You can get 52/36 rings for the 110mm BCD cranks.
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Old 08-02-16, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BigPoser
I didn't think that was possible. Aren't the BCD's different between the compact, mid-compact, and standard cranks?
Campy mid-compact is available in 110 BCD/Campagnolo CT.

2014 campagnolo 36 52 chainring | eBay
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Old 08-03-16, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rjones28
Campy mid-compact is available in 110 BCD/Campagnolo CT.

2014 campagnolo 36 52 chainring | eBay

Ah very cool! Thank you.

Think it'll be okay to have a 34/52? Also, how do you remove the bolt behind the crank arm?

Last edited by BigPoser; 08-03-16 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 08-03-16, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BigPoser
I have 2014 11s Chorus with a 5 bolt crank.

My question is if a new Chorus crank that has 4 bolt/arms will be a direct fit in my Ultra Torque BB and be compatible with the rest of my group?

I'm thinking it would, but want to be sure.

I currently have a compact crank and want to find a 52/36.

Thanks in advance.

Brandon

50/34 FWIW but here you go...

NEW Campagnolo Chorus CT UT Carbon Crankset: Compact 50/34T, 172.5mm, 11 Speed - Bike Recyclery

Maybe they have a mid crank for you if you browse around. I have purchased from them with no problems at all. They are very helpful over the phone.


-Tim-
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Old 08-03-16, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BigPoser
Ah very cool! Thank you.

Think it'll be okay to have a 34/52? Also, how do you remove the bolt behind the crank arm?
On the 110mm BCD, you have to run the 52 with the 36.
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Old 08-03-16, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sbxx1985
On the 110mm BCD, you have to run the 52 with the 36.

Hmm so that's kind of a bummer. I might as well get a new crank.

So to be certain, Campy compact crank is 110BCD? And if I want to replace one chainring, I have to replace both?

Thanks.

Brandon
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Old 08-03-16, 10:41 AM
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The older, better looking cranks were 110mm BCD for the compact and 135mm BCD for the standard. For the 110, the 50 goes with the 34 and the 52 goes with the 36.
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Old 08-03-16, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sbxx1985
The older, better looking cranks were 110mm BCD for the compact and 135mm BCD for the standard. For the 110, the 50 goes with the 34 and the 52 goes with the 36.

Got it. Well then if the BCD is the same, why can't you interchange the chainrings? Thanks, and sorry the questions, I just want to understand.

Brandon
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Old 08-03-16, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BigPoser
Got it. Well then if the BCD is the same, why can't you interchange the chainrings? Thanks, and sorry the questions, I just want to understand.
No clue. I wanted to do the same thing - run the 52 with a 34. I was told it won't work. When I bought the rings, the description said they had to be used together. I switched both my bikes from compact to mid compact.
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Old 08-03-16, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BigPoser
Got it. Well then if the BCD is the same, why can't you interchange the chainrings? Thanks, and sorry the questions, I just want to understand.

Brandon
the jump between rings is too big and the shaping and ramps on the big ring are positioned for the respective small rings. Why do you want 52/34? If you need a 34, then you probably don't need a 52.
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Old 08-03-16, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by redlude97
the jump between rings is too big and the shaping and ramps on the big ring are positioned for the respective small rings. Why do you want 52/34? If you need a 34, then you probably don't need a 52.
Not to speculate too much, but perhaps his cassette is a 12-25, 12-27 or 12-29, and now wishes he had opted for the 11-25, 11-27 or 11-29. A 52 ring instead of 50 might be considered somewhat approximately accomplishing his goal, without necessitating a cassette change?

EDIT: I should say I've wondered the same thing. Since I've gotten a bit better at flats/rolling hill riding average speeds, my 50 with 12-29 while OK, might be better with a 52 and 12-29, meaning that without cross chaining, I could more often just stay in the big ring before having to transition to the 34 ring when presented with greater hill degrees. At the same time, once in a while you still want the bailout gears a 34/29 combo can provide. Ie.. it's maybe why there're lots of Shimano riders with 11-32 cassettes.

Last edited by Sy Reene; 08-03-16 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 08-03-16, 04:41 PM
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Campy compact chainsets are 110mm* BCD. Meaning the pin is lined up with a hole and that one hole is 113mm because Campy.
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Old 08-03-16, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
Not to speculate too much, but perhaps his cassette is a 12-25, 12-27 or 12-29, and now wishes he had opted for the 11-25, 11-27 or 11-29. A 52 ring instead of 50 might be considered somewhat approximately accomplishing his goal, without necessitating a cassette change?

There is some truth to that for sure. I have a 12-27 cassette now and thought it might be cheaper just to get a chainring, but I'm discovering that that isn't the case.

Maybe I'll just put on an 11-28 Ultegra cassette and call it good. Probably still want the 52 up front though.

Last edited by BigPoser; 08-03-16 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 08-03-16, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
Not to speculate too much, but perhaps his cassette is a 12-25, 12-27 or 12-29, and now wishes he had opted for the 11-25, 11-27 or 11-29. A 52 ring instead of 50 might be considered somewhat approximately accomplishing his goal, without necessitating a cassette change?
Cassettes are cheaper and easier to replace.

Originally Posted by Sy Reene
EDIT: my 50 with 12-29 while OK, might be better with a 52 and 12-29, meaning that without cross chaining, I could more often just stay in the big ring before having to transition to the 34 ring when presented with greater hill degrees.
Huh? Moving to a 52 would mean the 52 would be less useful and you'd have to shift sooner compared to a 50.
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Old 08-03-16, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BigPoser
There is some truth to that for sure. I have a 12-27 cassette now and thought it might be cheaper just to get a chainring, but I'm discovering that that isn't the case.

Maybe I'll just put on an 11-28 Ultegra cassette and call it good. Probably still want the 52 up front though.
You can't use an ultegra cassette on a campy splined freehub. Also, why do you think you need a 52x11 gear?
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Old 08-03-16, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Huh? Moving to a 52 would mean the 52 would be less useful and you'd have to shift sooner compared to a 50.
Agreed. That was added after I posted, but this is why I run a 48/34 instead of the more standard 50/34. The only thing a 52 gives you is a higher high end. At the same time it does that, it also makes the low end and the closely spaced range of the big ring higher as well.

I have never understood the people that say 52/36 lets them shift less up front, unless what they're really saying is they ride around more in the small ring, in which case older compacts like 50/36 would have served the same purpose just as well. With a modern cassette, usually bringing a chainring closer to 39-42t will mean you won't have to shift the front as much. You diverge from this to get lower climbing gears and higher downhill/tailwind/sprinting gears.

Last edited by 2lo8; 08-03-16 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 08-03-16, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Also, why do you think you need a 52x11 gear?
Because it's more awesome than a 50x11 and I live in Colorado.
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Old 08-03-16, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 2lo8
Agreed. That was added after I posted, but this is why I run a 48/34 instead of the more standard 50/34. The only thing a 52 gives you is a higher high end. At the same time it does that, it also makes the low end and the closely spaced range of the big ring higher as well.

I have never understood the people that say 52/36 lets them shift less up front, unless what they're really saying is they ride around more in the small ring, in which case older compacts like 50/36 would have served the same purpose just as well.
I used 50/36 for a number of years and switched to 52/36 this spring when I changed cranksets, paired with 12x27. The 52 gets me a higher high end since I don't like any of the 10 speed 11x* cassettes but it requires more front shifting than 50/36 for sure, more similar to 50/34 11x28 combos. If I had to do it again I'd probably go back to 50/36 and sacrifice a bit on the top end
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Old 08-03-16, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by redlude97
You can't use an ultegra cassette on a campy splined freehub. Also, why do you think you need a 52x11 gear?
I most certainly can if I change out my freehub with one for Shimano/SRAM.

I want to go faster. With my group I'm often times spun out on my 50x12.
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Old 08-03-16, 05:31 PM
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50x11 is a higher gear than 52x12, and for first generation 10-speed 11t cogs were not standard and basically only came with 11-23 cassettes. 11t became standard when compacts hit the scene. If you're strong enough that you break 40mph on a regular basis, then just swap your cassette. If that's just downhill, you might want to try refining your tuck.
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Old 08-03-16, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BigPoser
I most certainly can if I change out my freehub with one for Shimano/SRAM.

I want to go faster. With my group I'm often times spun out on my 50x12.
You are getting dropped at 43mph? Maybe try tucking more and stop pedaling
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Old 08-03-16, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 2lo8
50x11 is a higher gear than 52x12, and for first generation 10-speed 11t cogs were not standard and basically only came with 11-23 cassettes. 11t became standard when compacts hit the scene. If you're strong enough that you break 40mph on a regular basis, then just swap your cassette. If that's just downhill, you might want to try refining your tuck.
Haha its like we have the same mind
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