Thoughts/Experience with Handsome Cycles XOXO an X0-1 homage All-Rounder
#301
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Sorry, pictures are difficult to show the actual angles or distances, but I’m glad to help. I hope the pics help some. I show the right stay to brake surface as .980”
I show left stay to brake surface as .880”
There is a one-hundred thousandths difference.
If this helps any, my chain line seems
straightest between fourth gear and fifth gear. There is a slight cant to the right at the rear in four
A sight left cant in fifth.
4th
5th
While the wheel shows a bit of left offset by stay to rim measurements where you indicated, I don’t know that it’s not proper, in order to account for the gear cluster and wheel dish or tire to chain clearance. On mine it doesn’t seem to mess with the actual tread being centered.
Eyeing this up now, I wonder if the wider rtp might rub chain in 11.I haven’t looked down at chain alignment while riding yet. I’ll get this on the stand after a follow up and doctors approval to be more active.
These rear alignment issues, and wheel building aren’t areas that I have had to delve into before, but I am eager and willing.
Judging by the tire alone, the center of tread still seems to align with the center of the seat post, the bolt in the chain stay brace, the center of the bolt in the seat stay cross brace/brake hanger, the brake cable housing stop/hanger and the center of roller hanger on the straddle cable.
How large of a difference have you noticed? Iirc you had one set of wheels redone? Do you still have a greater offset than the .100” I’m seeing, or thereabouts?
Seems centered to frame center.
I’m using a tamper marker for two reasons: To show what I’ve gone over so far To monitor for any loosening or shifting.
When more mobile, I’ll check the seat stay distances to rim. What I may be picking up is .050” difference in the cross sections/widths of the two chain stays…the chain sode being seemingly a touch flatter inboard. So take that into account as part of the 1/10” diff here, perhaps.
I show left stay to brake surface as .880”
There is a one-hundred thousandths difference.
If this helps any, my chain line seems
straightest between fourth gear and fifth gear. There is a slight cant to the right at the rear in four
A sight left cant in fifth.
4th
5th
While the wheel shows a bit of left offset by stay to rim measurements where you indicated, I don’t know that it’s not proper, in order to account for the gear cluster and wheel dish or tire to chain clearance. On mine it doesn’t seem to mess with the actual tread being centered.
Eyeing this up now, I wonder if the wider rtp might rub chain in 11.I haven’t looked down at chain alignment while riding yet. I’ll get this on the stand after a follow up and doctors approval to be more active.
These rear alignment issues, and wheel building aren’t areas that I have had to delve into before, but I am eager and willing.
Judging by the tire alone, the center of tread still seems to align with the center of the seat post, the bolt in the chain stay brace, the center of the bolt in the seat stay cross brace/brake hanger, the brake cable housing stop/hanger and the center of roller hanger on the straddle cable.
How large of a difference have you noticed? Iirc you had one set of wheels redone? Do you still have a greater offset than the .100” I’m seeing, or thereabouts?
Seems centered to frame center.
I’m using a tamper marker for two reasons: To show what I’ve gone over so far To monitor for any loosening or shifting.
When more mobile, I’ll check the seat stay distances to rim. What I may be picking up is .050” difference in the cross sections/widths of the two chain stays…the chain sode being seemingly a touch flatter inboard. So take that into account as part of the 1/10” diff here, perhaps.
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#302
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scored a deal on a couple of Naches pass tires...2 for the price of 1 could not pass them up. also probably going to look dorky but picked up some BTP bar tape in orange and white. The tape it came with is starting to look a bit long in the tooth. I am on the look out for a different stem so probably wait until I find one before re-tapeing the bars. looking for a 90° or 100° maybe up to 110° stem. would love to find an xo1 ritchey stem or nitto cr-52
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#303
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scored a deal on a couple of Naches pass tires...2 for the price of 1 could not pass them up. also probably going to look dorky but picked up some BTP bar tape in orange and white. The tape it came with is starting to look a bit long in the tooth. I am on the look out for a different stem so probably wait until I find one before re-tapeing the bars. looking for a 90° or 100° maybe up to 110° stem. would love to find an xo1 ritchey stem or nitto cr-52
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#306
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I have not. I have been looking for a different stem. I will probably move mine a little closer together when I retape. I know Grant Peterson recommended 12-13cm apart at the tips so I will probably try that. I picked up some of the dummy diacompe levers so will try those as well. I am having a hard time finding the stem I want.
Last edited by jadmt; 12-24-22 at 08:54 AM.
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I am glad this thread popped back up - love those XOs
If there's any XO riders here who switched to a threadless stem and want a Nitto RM-016 Mustache handlebar in the hard-to-find 31.8mm
Not that I'm trying to sell one here but I might could point you in the direction of a new one at less than MSRP
Happy Holidays - ride safe...
If there's any XO riders here who switched to a threadless stem and want a Nitto RM-016 Mustache handlebar in the hard-to-find 31.8mm
Not that I'm trying to sell one here but I might could point you in the direction of a new one at less than MSRP
Happy Holidays - ride safe...
#309
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Been looking for something to do that and love the blue lug brass boss covers but shipping is over $50 from japan for a $9 part. I will have to look at the problem solver one.
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Fenders installed in my down time. I used Rene Herse “smoothed” hardware for fastening the stays to V/O fenders. RTP on the rear and NP front.
Not the best job as it was done one armed. Put a scratch in the rear fender at it’s crimp on bridge hanger, which I was hesitant to use. I didn’t have a long enough duramel for the front to work as desired, so used an L bracket there too, reluctantly.
Then put a dive strap along the chain stay for protection. Working on a more appealing fastening of it with perhaps waxed cord or ribbon/twill tape. Kamisori style. Not sure if chain slap will be a thing on this.
Not the best job as it was done one armed. Put a scratch in the rear fender at it’s crimp on bridge hanger, which I was hesitant to use. I didn’t have a long enough duramel for the front to work as desired, so used an L bracket there too, reluctantly.
Then put a dive strap along the chain stay for protection. Working on a more appealing fastening of it with perhaps waxed cord or ribbon/twill tape. Kamisori style. Not sure if chain slap will be a thing on this.
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Fenders installed in my down time. I used Rene Herse “smoothed” hardware for fastening the stays to V/O fenders. RTP on the rear and NP front.
Not the best job as it was done one armed. Put a scratch in the rear fender at it’s crimp on bridge hanger, which I was hesitant to use. I didn’t have a long enough duramel for the front to work as desired, so used an L bracket there too, reluctantly.
Then put a dive strap along the chain stay for protection. Working on a more appealing fastening of it with perhaps waxed cord or ribbon/twill tape. Kamisori style. Not sure if chain slap will be a thing on this.
Not the best job as it was done one armed. Put a scratch in the rear fender at it’s crimp on bridge hanger, which I was hesitant to use. I didn’t have a long enough duramel for the front to work as desired, so used an L bracket there too, reluctantly.
Then put a dive strap along the chain stay for protection. Working on a more appealing fastening of it with perhaps waxed cord or ribbon/twill tape. Kamisori style. Not sure if chain slap will be a thing on this.
Last edited by jadmt; 01-06-23 at 08:40 AM.
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#320
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Looks great! I assume RTP fits in the back with fenders but the front doesn't clear hence the smaller tire in front - the fork crown design is the limiting factor on tire clearance there. Honestly, if you hadn't mentioned the tire sizes I probably wouldn't have noticed, though now that I know I can see it but it doesn't scream out at you.
Regarding chain slap, my 2012 has chips on the stays from riding off-road with older non-clutch derailleurs but your modern derailleur should have more tension. On another bike I recently used some 3/8" clear plastic tubing, slit lengthwise, around the top of the stay and held with twine at the ends (similar to what you've done on that strip). It's visually low profile and offers the desired protection and sound dampening.
Regarding chain slap, my 2012 has chips on the stays from riding off-road with older non-clutch derailleurs but your modern derailleur should have more tension. On another bike I recently used some 3/8" clear plastic tubing, slit lengthwise, around the top of the stay and held with twine at the ends (similar to what you've done on that strip). It's visually low profile and offers the desired protection and sound dampening.
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I screwed up should have went with the chrome, not sure what i was thinking lol. need to find a different screw too. the one they sent doesn't fit.
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It’d be chrome screw for me. I dont mind the brass.
Thanks each of you, for the info on lack of chain slack. Looking at it I can see the greater tension and take up. Will probably forego the strap then. I hadn't really looked into the drivetrain much, though I’d seen some vids on newer clutched derailleurs. last new bike was in 2014 or so.
Thanks each of you, for the info on lack of chain slack. Looking at it I can see the greater tension and take up. Will probably forego the strap then. I hadn't really looked into the drivetrain much, though I’d seen some vids on newer clutched derailleurs. last new bike was in 2014 or so.
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The tires
The RTP would fit on the front fine under this fender. I should say I believe it would.
I had looks in mind (sort of supermoto/dirt bike oriented) along with wanting to see if the wider rear might be softer off-road and a narrower front providing quicker steering. I ordered one of each thinking I’d choose between which I thought I liked best, if I didn't like the staggered set up, then get the second one of choice.
I had looks in mind (sort of supermoto/dirt bike oriented) along with wanting to see if the wider rear might be softer off-road and a narrower front providing quicker steering. I ordered one of each thinking I’d choose between which I thought I liked best, if I didn't like the staggered set up, then get the second one of choice.
Last edited by streetsurfer; 01-09-23 at 09:19 PM.