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Hybrid to road bike or new road bike

Old 07-24-19, 07:38 AM
  #26  
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I'm not sure why you don't want two or more bikes? A bike that does everything is probably just mediocre at most things.
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Old 07-26-19, 12:10 AM
  #27  
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Need your help guys found the bike a diamondback Century one basically brand new never been ridden for a really good price it's a 54cm frame or size. Basically it says 5 ft 6 in to 5 foot 9 inch or 5 ft 10 in.

Mine Diamondback hybrid is a large frame when I stand over the drop bar my crotch touches the bar already I've had people in bike shops tell me that it's too big for me.

So the century one I looked up the specs it measures 31 inches from the ground to the drop bar that drops down that you would stand over to check yourself my inseam is 32 in I believe because I've been in a few Bike Shop they've told me your crotch should not touch that bar you should be able to lift that bike up about an inch well the century one that I'm looking at buying is 31 and I'm 32 so that would leave an inch of clearance so I'm wondering if that would work I mean I can't see the bike I have to buy it online from somebody so it's kind of a a Gamble.

What I'm asking what's the most important thing how can I kind of size myself to the bike that I'm trying to buy without actually seeing it.
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Old 07-26-19, 08:08 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Califmike2003
What I'm asking what's the most important thing how can I kind of size myself to the bike that I'm trying to buy without actually seeing it.
Inseam and overall height can get you pretty close. How tall are you?
Also, do you want to sit a little more upright, or more stretched out?

The stand-over measurement is good for getting close, but it's not everything. Remember, you need the bike to fit right when you're riding it, not when you're standing on it.
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Old 07-26-19, 08:30 AM
  #29  
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I'm 6ft tall. Checking on the tube length of the bike that I want to buy the century one it has the exact same tube length the top the downtube as my current Diamondback mountain bike exactly the same length which is 21 and a quarter inches. The height from the ground to the tube down tube that you stand over is basically the same as my current Diamondback mountain bike..

No bike shops and told me that my current Diamondback mountain bike is too big for me that I'm reaching too far forward to stretched out and when I stand over my current mountain bike I can't lift the bike up off the ground it's like in my crotch already when I stand over it the the new bike that I want to buy the century one is about an inch lower than my current mountain bike everything seems like it would fit me.

I was in a local bike shop here looking at a road bike and the guy had me on it and it was a 54 they said it fit me fine.

I don't know what to do because no local bike shops have this bike that I can go sit on I can only go based on measurements on the website and my current bike that I have but it's a mountain bike I'm guessing that's completely different than trying to fit a road bike.

And I can get this new bike for a really good deal I would hate to order it and doesn't fit but it sounds awfully close.

I think the century one is made to sit a little bit more upright it's way the bikes designed.
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Old 07-26-19, 09:09 AM
  #30  
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MTB sizes (S, M, L) don't translate very well in to road bike 'mm' sizes. That, and the geometry is way different, especially 'modern' ('00s and later) MTBs.

The DB Century is a pretty relaxed road bike, even when compared to an Endurance bike like the Cannondale Synapse, or a racer like the Specialized Allez.

However, at 6-0 with a 32 inseam, i'd think a 54cm would be pretty small. I'm 5-10 with a 30, and I typically ride 56's. (and a vintage 57) 54's are too small front-to-back, regardless of how high the seat is.
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Old 07-26-19, 09:11 AM
  #31  
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You're probably right I'm probably just pass on it it's kind of risky.
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Old 07-26-19, 10:46 AM
  #32  
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I also think 54 would be too small, 56 or 58 seem right

diamond back says: MD 54cm - 5'7" - 5'9" LG 56cm - 5'9" - 5'11" XL 58cm - 5'11" - 6'1"


I can't vouch for this store just popped up on a search and but it may be of interest even if just for the specs

$739 for 2018 century 2 https://aventuron.com/products/diamo...29246197596262

the century 3 is more money (unless you can find a 2018) but it s huge jump up in components 105 vs sora., I personally would look for a century 3 over a 2 and just wait and save more if i had to

but also check this out at REI https://www.rei.com/product/106343/c...es-ard-12-bike rei brand bike with 105 at 1100 and you have REI support (and get a member ship and get 10% back at the endof the year

est Use

Road CyclingFrame

Co-op Cycles 6061 double-butted aluminum frameFork

One-piece carbon fork, tapered carbon steerer for flat mount disc, includes fender mountsBike Suspension

No SuspensionCrankset

Shimano RS500, 50X34TBottom Bracket

ShimanoShifters

Shimano 105Front Derailleur

Shimano 105, band typeRear Derailleur

Shimano 105Rear Cogs

Shimano 105, 11-32, 11 speedNumber of Gears

22Brake Type

Mechanical Disc BrakeBrakes

TRP Spyre-C flat mount dual piston mechanical disc brakeBrake Levers

Shimano 105Rims

Co-op Cycles, 32 holeFront Hub

Co-op Cycles 12mm thru-axleRear Hub

Co-op Cycles QRWheel Size

700cTires

DONNELLY Strada LGG 700 x 28mmTire Width

28 millimetersHandlebar Shape

Drop BarHandlebar

Co-op Cycles aero-ergo design; 31.8mm; 12 degree flareStem

Co-op Cycles 6061 aluminum, 31.8, 6 degreeSeat Post

Co-op Cycles 6016, 31.6Saddle

Co-op Cycles, chromoly railPedals

Sold separatelyHeadset

Integrated headset - 1.18 upper/1.5 lowerChain

Shimano 105, 11-speedWeight

22 lbs. 0.3 oz.Bike Weight

Bike weight is based on median size, as sold, or the average of two median sizes.Gender
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Old 07-26-19, 11:43 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
I also think 54 would be too small, 56 or 58 seem right

diamond back says: MD 54cm - 5'7" - 5'9" LG 56cm - 5'9" - 5'11" XL 58cm - 5'11" - 6'1"


I can't vouch for this store just popped up on a search and but it may be of interest even if just for the specs

$739 for 2018 century 2 https://aventuron.com/products/diamo...29246197596262

the century 3 is more money (unless you can find a 2018) but it s huge jump up in components 105 vs sora., I personally would look for a century 3 over a 2 and just wait and save more if i had to

but also check this out at REI https://www.rei.com/product/106343/c...es-ard-12-bike rei brand bike with 105 at 1100 and you have REI support (and get a member ship and get 10% back at the endof the year

est Use

Road CyclingFrame

Co-op Cycles 6061 double-butted aluminum frameFork

One-piece carbon fork, tapered carbon steerer for flat mount disc, includes fender mountsBike Suspension

No SuspensionCrankset

Shimano RS500, 50X34TBottom Bracket

ShimanoShifters

Shimano 105Front Derailleur

Shimano 105, band typeRear Derailleur

Shimano 105Rear Cogs

Shimano 105, 11-32, 11 speedNumber of Gears

22Brake Type

Mechanical Disc BrakeBrakes

TRP Spyre-C flat mount dual piston mechanical disc brakeBrake Levers

Shimano 105Rims

Co-op Cycles, 32 holeFront Hub

Co-op Cycles 12mm thru-axleRear Hub

Co-op Cycles QRWheel Size

700cTires

DONNELLY Strada LGG 700 x 28mmTire Width

28 millimetersHandlebar Shape

Drop BarHandlebar

Co-op Cycles aero-ergo design; 31.8mm; 12 degree flareStem

Co-op Cycles 6061 aluminum, 31.8, 6 degreeSeat Post

Co-op Cycles 6016, 31.6Saddle

Co-op Cycles, chromoly railPedals

Sold separatelyHeadset

Integrated headset - 1.18 upper/1.5 lowerChain

Shimano 105, 11-speedWeight

22 lbs. 0.3 oz.Bike Weight

Bike weight is based on median size, as sold, or the average of two median sizes.Gender

Thanks man yeah I think it would have been too small I'll definitely yeah I like the look of that Century II and I'm going to go check out REI.
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Old 07-26-19, 11:50 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Califmike2003
Thanks man yeah I think it would have been too small I'll definitely yeah I like the look of that Century II and I'm going to go check out REI.
I think that REI bike looks like a good value and they should be able to get one your size no problem. Also it is a huge jump in quality going from 2x9 sora to 2x11 105........ imho worth it to save more and get better. 105 has been the sweet sport for price/quality/function/lightness for years I put a full 105 group on my de rosa

weekend it coming....time to go bike shopping rei is in tustin and and Huntington beach at a minimum
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Old 07-27-19, 08:08 PM
  #35  
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I'm going to go tomorrow and take a look at the REI bike basically I'm in the saving money mode until I've got about 1,200 or $1,300 to spend on a bike.

I went and put 700 x 32c tires on my Diamondback hybrid from those fat mountain bike tires that were on it night and day difference the thing just rolls and rides so much better.

Talking to a guy in a bike shop today and he said he gave me some advice he said if you're commuting 5 or 6 miles to work you don't need a road bike for that amount in bike or hybrid bike is going to be way more comfortable of a ride for that short of a run. He says you don't you run out of sidewalk you run out of places you want to be going off curbs and riding through junk are road bike road bikes are for 15 20 30 mile rides.

He told me I should keep my Diamondback hybrid use that to go to work and then get a road bike if I want to go on seriously long rides fast rides with groups of people and stuff like that and I think I agree with them I'm actually going to keep my hybrid bike and buy a road bike once I save up the money.

32c tires made an enormous difference totally different handling totally different speed it's like a new bike I think I'm going to throw a better seat on it maybe a seat post that has a little suspension in the seat post I'm going to throw away the front suspension forks and throw on a aluminum Fork get some different handlebars that are positioned better the way I want and I'm done that'll be my commuting bike.

And I put away a little each paycheck for a couple of months by myself a road bike.

I put Continental GP 4 season 700x32c tires. From what I read sound like very good tires very popular Tire.

I want to change my front fork I know I talked about this before somebody told me to put a steel Fork I want to get rid of the suspension Fork it sucks it's dead weight every time I put on the front brakes and flexes a lot I want to get rid of it.

Why would I put a steel Fork on? Again not going off road going to be all on road Street pavement riding I'm thinking either carbon fiber or aluminum this is the bike mechanic section so I need a little advice.

From what I understand the fork needs to be the same from the axle to the crown of my current Fork what does that hold true even though it's a suspension Fork that I'm majoring off of.

I'm coming up with like 492 millimeters on my current Fork the fork at I'm looking at buying is 497 mmmm so it's fairly close. Do I need a Straight Fork or do I need an offset Fork how do I tell if my current Fork is offset?

Last edited by Califmike2003; 07-27-19 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 07-28-19, 08:31 PM
  #36  
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So I have my tires put on my Diamondback mountain bike and it's like I bought a whole new bicycle I mean the thing rolls and pedals so much better with the new tires it's unbelievable great investment.

I was having trouble with my gears so I took it in and I found out that my rear cassette is wore out in my chain is stretched which means the guy I bought the bike from lied to me about only writing it a hundred miles maybe he only wrote it a hundred miles but the guy before him wrote it more than that those don't wear out so now I have to buy a new cassette new chain.

Is there more Street friendly gearing that I can get I'm thinking at this changing the whole thing out getting a full set new derailleur everything can you guys recommend me a good one that's more Street friendly than Mountain .
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Old 07-29-19, 05:06 PM
  #37  
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No replies okay thanks for all your help everybody
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Old 07-29-19, 06:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Califmike2003
No replies okay thanks for all your help everybody
been working for once....... sound like a plan, ride what you have and save then you have 2 bikes (N+1 rules). (who was the brilliant person who said putting skinnier tires on was the best bang for the buck) I would not worry about the forks. Lock em out and live with them....
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Old 07-29-19, 09:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
been working for once....... sound like a plan, ride what you have and save then you have 2 bikes (N+1 rules). (who was the brilliant person who said putting skinnier tires on was the best bang for the buck) I would not worry about the forks. Lock em out and live with them....

Thanks man I believe that was you that told me to put the skinny tires on made a huge difference definition for two bikes.
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Old 07-31-19, 02:21 PM
  #40  
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New problem with the Diamondback I have found out the change stretched out the rear cassette swore out and some of my gears on the chainring or wore out the guy that I bought it from obviously lied to me how long he wrote it for I taking it to two shops we both agree with the same thing.

Already ordered a rear cassette and chain should I just replace the chainring gears or should I get a whole new crank and gears?
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Old 07-31-19, 04:37 PM
  #41  
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You’re likely fine just changing the cassette in the back and keep the cranks you have. If you’re riding mostly roads and not steep hills, you might consider getting smaller cogs on the new cassette than what you have now. That will give you higher gears to go faster on pavement.

Also, smart move with the new tires. Most mountain bikes make perfectly good street bikes if you put narrow street tires on them. Huge improvement for relatively low investment.
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Old 07-31-19, 04:47 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Califmike2003
New problem with the Diamondback I have found out the change stretched out the rear cassette swore out and some of my gears on the chainring or wore out the guy that I bought it from obviously lied to me how long he wrote it for I taking it to two shops we both agree with the same thing.

Already ordered a rear cassette and chain should I just replace the chainring gears or should I get a whole new crank and gears?
no need to replace the crank...just check to see if the chain rings are worn enough to need changing and change those out if needed.

remember you are saving for a new bike.

also time to start thinking about doing some of this work your self.... park tool has a good site and lots of videos on you tube https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
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Old 08-09-19, 02:12 PM
  #43  
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Looking for some feed I think I'm going to buy a trek 2.1 wsd 2010 frame it's all aluminum it has a carbon fiber Fork it's $130 on eBay brand new never been used in the packaging and build my own bike.

Then I'm going to either add tiagra or Sora as my groupset and then buy some carbon fiber wheels from China some that I've read good reviews on I think I'll end up about $1,000 and I should have a pretty damn good road bike.
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Old 08-09-19, 02:28 PM
  #44  
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Well, I believe that WSD stood for Woman Specific Design. If the frame fits you and you like the way it looks it probably doesn't matter (I'm guessing that Mike indicates a guy, but if not, then WSD should really be fine for you). Note that two elements of WSD were a "comfy saddle" and narrower handlebars. But if you're getting the frame only, it doesn't matter! In fact, if this fits you, you may be getting a real deal because others will wring their hands over "WSD" and won't buy it. Cuz it's the same as the mainline frame with different paint (and slighly different geometry).

Make sure you use the Trek sizing guide so that the bike fits.

Building a bike from components is pretty fun, and satisfying. I build up an 1999 LeMond 853 frame with Ultegra R8000 components and a Bontrager wheelset. It's pretty spiffy. I will point out, though, that buying a bike by parts can be a little or a lot more expensive than just finding the bike you want on eBay or CL.

Good luck, I hope you enjoy the process and end up with a nice bike to ride.
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Old 08-09-19, 03:32 PM
  #45  
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Imho you would be better off with the rei which is down to 1118 https://www.rei.com/product/106343/c...es-ard-12-bike with vs a 9 year old frame that is likely to have no warranty, tiagra and chinese wheels

it will be pretty hard to build a bike for a 1000

but if you are tiagra is 325 to350 to 525 (rim, mechanical disk, hydralic disk https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/compo...Shimano+Tiagra)

so you are at (assume middle tiagra) you are at $480 for frame and componets....add wheels, tires, seatpost saddle stem and bars and tape

I get doing if for the experience, but don't think you will end up with as better, cheaper bike by doing your own build

have fun
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Old 08-09-19, 05:06 PM
  #46  
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I had no idea it was a girl's bike the wsd that kind of kills it.
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Old 08-09-19, 05:08 PM
  #47  
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The fact that it is a woman's frame does it really matter ? I think it's a pretty cool looking frame actually I kind of like the color scheme on it.
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Old 08-09-19, 05:31 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Califmike2003
The fact that it is a woman's frame does it really matter ? I think it's a pretty cool looking frame actually I kind of like the color scheme on it.
depends....but per trek they build these with different geometries than mens bike so i could not work..... issue is you are buying off of ebay and wont know until you are done...and could have spend a fair amount of time in

cool looking frame is important.....after fit fit fit fit fit fit

I gave you my ideas a post or two above. Over the years I have learned it cost's me a lot less money over time to get what I want instead of trying to make do, or be too cheap. (and I am cheap and have a large DIY inclination)

here is what trek says https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/w...pecificdesign/
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Old 08-09-19, 09:38 PM
  #49  
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Thank you for that link it sounds like the geometries different it's made more to fit a woman I think I'm going to pass on it I thought when a woman's road bike was filled with more handlebar with crank stuff like that it sounds like this Frame was built specifically to fit a woman better so it's probably a good idea to just pass.

For the REI bike goes for the other poster I don't like it I looked at it I just don't like the way it looks aesthetically it's not getting it done for me but I appreciate you putting that up and showing me that.

I really want to build one myself I'm considering at Chinese carbon fiber frame and I'm building it up been doing a lot of research on it some of them are actually pretty good to come out of China you just got to know which ones are good and which ones aren't.
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Old 08-10-19, 11:44 AM
  #50  
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After a lot of research a lot of reading I found the bike I'm buying.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F282384924460

Very good guy is 100% positive review I've read about this brand of bike it's very good there's no issues of people having broken frames or nothing it just seems like a really good bike that you can no way get here in America for that price and has Shimano Sora groupset which is decent not the best but you could always upgraded but for $1,000 I don't think you can beat it and it's sick looking.

And he offers free shipping back if you don't like it that's pretty hard to beat.
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