Adjusting Spyre-C mechanical disc?
03-25-20, 04:15 PM
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Adjusting Spyre-C mechanical disc?
I have a 13 mo old Roubaix with Spyre-C mechanical disc brakes and about 2,000 miles on it. Recently I haven't had much play left (front>>>back) which was made worse by very cautious trip down 17% dirt grade.
Bike shop is closed! So I was simply unscrewed to cable lock and tightened front and back. Now I have plenty of play, but I'm worried that more careful attention might be necessary.
If the brakes have plenty of grip room, is riding the bike safe? I assume if I hear something then I got to get it right.
Bike shop is closed! So I was simply unscrewed to cable lock and tightened front and back. Now I have plenty of play, but I'm worried that more careful attention might be necessary.
If the brakes have plenty of grip room, is riding the bike safe? I assume if I hear something then I got to get it right.
03-25-20, 05:12 PM
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There is both the cable adjustment which adjusts the moving pad and a pad adjustment which adjusts the fixed pad. You should adjust both to compensate for wear on both pads. Adjusting the cable without adjusting the fixed pad causes you to have to bend the disc further to contact the fixed pad. Here is the manual: https://www.trpbrakes.com/userfiles/...113%281%29.pdf
03-25-20, 05:17 PM
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Thanks. Getting further into understanding this bike part. Watched some videos and understand more. Best one is Park tool.
I think I can get this right, but is there any reason to loosen and fool with mounting bolt adjustment while I am doing this, as long I don't have a rub?
I think I can get this right, but is there any reason to loosen and fool with mounting bolt adjustment while I am doing this, as long I don't have a rub?
03-25-20, 08:07 PM
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What possible advantage would be gained by realigning a caliper which is not rubbing anything? Never Fix A Running Piece.
03-26-20, 05:22 AM
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The Spyre brakes do not have a fixed pad like most other cable brakes. Both pads move when the brake is actuated and there is a separate pad adjustment for each pad, via an adjustment screw on each side of the caliper.
03-26-20, 09:28 AM
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03-26-20, 06:02 PM
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I am not adjusting the calipers.
Thanks for letting me know there is a pad adjustment on the inside also. So I had to take my wheel off to tighten it, I guess I need a short 3mm allen tool to do that w/o taking wheel off.
So I should tighten my brakes using pad adjuster and not the cable tension adjustment. It appears I am to let all the slack out of cable and just snug it before I tighten the 5mm bolt?
Thanks for letting me know there is a pad adjustment on the inside also. So I had to take my wheel off to tighten it, I guess I need a short 3mm allen tool to do that w/o taking wheel off.
So I should tighten my brakes using pad adjuster and not the cable tension adjustment. It appears I am to let all the slack out of cable and just snug it before I tighten the 5mm bolt?
03-28-20, 07:48 AM
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- I’ve read several accounts of the Spyre pad adjustment backing off and people just using the barrel adjuster to compensate for pad wear. I think TRP recommends using Blue Loctite on the pad adjusters to prevent this. By merely taking up the slack in the cable, you’ll shorten the available travel on the caliper arm. I suggest you do both, take the slack out of the cable and use the pad adjustment. That way, if the pads do back off, you’ll at least have full caliper arm travel available.
