Are you very long waisted like me? What size bike works for you?
01-01-17, 07:20 PM
#1
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Are you very long waisted like me? What size bike works for you?
I'm a little over 6'2" but my inseam is 30". Most of my height comes from the waist and up.
I've made some admittedly odd choices over time. My last bike was built on a 25" steel frame Raleigh. Crazy tall bike. The head tube itself was 12" tall. I could barely get one toe down while stopped at a light but I could pedal for hours and love it. I feel more stable on bigger bikes. Over the last few years I've gravitated toward the biggest frames I could get my leg over.
What about you?
I've made some admittedly odd choices over time. My last bike was built on a 25" steel frame Raleigh. Crazy tall bike. The head tube itself was 12" tall. I could barely get one toe down while stopped at a light but I could pedal for hours and love it. I feel more stable on bigger bikes. Over the last few years I've gravitated toward the biggest frames I could get my leg over.
What about you?
01-01-17, 10:05 PM
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Whether you can touch the ground while seated has nothing to do with frame size. It only has to do with saddle height. I'm a short but long-waisted guy and can't begin to touch the ground with my tippy-toe on any of my bikes. That's how it should be. "Get my leg over" again has nothing to do with frame size, though you might mean stand-over height.
All that said, of course the correct reach is what we all want, which has to do with top tube length more than anything, which has a slightly variable relationship to frame size. Some frames are "oversquare" while others are "undersquare." I like frames with TT lengths longer than ST length. Now that slanted top tubes are all the rage, frames may be sized by effective seat tube length rather than what's measured. Thus slanted top tubes are all good for those of us who want a longer top tube because we get more standover height in a larger frame size.
Back when all top tubes were horizontal, one used to be able to assess appropriate frame size by the amount visible seatpost. But not any more.
All that said, of course the correct reach is what we all want, which has to do with top tube length more than anything, which has a slightly variable relationship to frame size. Some frames are "oversquare" while others are "undersquare." I like frames with TT lengths longer than ST length. Now that slanted top tubes are all the rage, frames may be sized by effective seat tube length rather than what's measured. Thus slanted top tubes are all good for those of us who want a longer top tube because we get more standover height in a larger frame size.
Back when all top tubes were horizontal, one used to be able to assess appropriate frame size by the amount visible seatpost. But not any more.
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01-02-17, 09:13 AM
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I'm a little over 6'2" but my inseam is 30". Most of my height comes from the waist and up.
I've made some admittedly odd choices over time. My last bike was built on a 25" steel frame Raleigh. Crazy tall bike. The head tube itself was 12" tall. I could barely get one toe down while stopped at a light but I could pedal for hours and love it. I feel more stable on bigger bikes. Over the last few years I've gravitated toward the biggest frames I could get my leg over.
What about you?
I've made some admittedly odd choices over time. My last bike was built on a 25" steel frame Raleigh. Crazy tall bike. The head tube itself was 12" tall. I could barely get one toe down while stopped at a light but I could pedal for hours and love it. I feel more stable on bigger bikes. Over the last few years I've gravitated toward the biggest frames I could get my leg over.
What about you?
pelvis rocking caused a vicious back ache. All fixed now, to fat though.....
01-03-17, 10:33 AM
#5
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Saddle to BB height wont change for a Properly fitted Bike , You buy a Taller frame for a Longer top tube ,
I f you are getting factory produced frames..
To keep the Leg extension The frame design for Drop/BB height
can lower the Pedals .. same distance to the saddle . , it's lower so you can stop toe down.
Crank Forward Frames really lay the seat tube back ,, then the saddle is closer to the Ground
and The stops can be, Motorcycle like, flat footed. RANS Bikes
https://www.bike123.com/rans_crank_forward.htm,
short seat tube, but long top tube will need it Built For You.
In the meantime Pick the 'size' for your legs and change the stem and Handlebars
to suit your torso and arms. (you change things on the bike from what it ships out of the carton pick)
...
I f you are getting factory produced frames..
To keep the Leg extension The frame design for Drop/BB height
can lower the Pedals .. same distance to the saddle . , it's lower so you can stop toe down.
Crank Forward Frames really lay the seat tube back ,, then the saddle is closer to the Ground
and The stops can be, Motorcycle like, flat footed. RANS Bikes
https://www.bike123.com/rans_crank_forward.htm,
short seat tube, but long top tube will need it Built For You.
In the meantime Pick the 'size' for your legs and change the stem and Handlebars
to suit your torso and arms. (you change things on the bike from what it ships out of the carton pick)
...
01-13-17, 01:40 PM
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01-13-17, 02:44 PM
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You have a long torso. I'm 6"1" but have about 31" inseam. Ideally, you want more length on the top tube than the seat tube. Something like the LeMond geometry (55cm since the TT is 56.5cm). You would still need a cm or two longer stem than me. So you're looking at a 130mm to 140mm stem maybe? I'd use a 120mm stem with that frame size. Or just size up to a 57cm and get a shorter stem. Your choice. A 55cm with a 57.5cm TT would be better for you but now you're looking at custom.
Last edited by ptempel; 01-13-17 at 02:51 PM.
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