1976 Raleigh Competition Mk. II - All original barn find
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...how's your Raleigh Comp restore coming??
There are (4) of us on BF/C&V who've picked one of these up this summer.
I'm shopping for a silver compact/110bcd
for mine...
I may decide to sell on the TA 52/42, even tho it shifts fantastically paired with the Huret Jubilee FD.
sacre bleu!
There are (4) of us on BF/C&V who've picked one of these up this summer.
I'm shopping for a silver compact/110bcd
for mine...
I may decide to sell on the TA 52/42, even tho it shifts fantastically paired with the Huret Jubilee FD.
sacre bleu!
Last edited by rustystrings61; 07-25-19 at 09:55 AM.
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I agree @John E. I'm going to ditch those turkey brake levers sharplike. I hadn't seen a chainwheel guard on the stronglight like this before and my initial reaction was the same as yours... strangely though it's growing on me (maybe)... I may polish it up before making a decision.
I think the OP's bike has the crankset and BB of a Raleigh Gran Sport, or maybe a Super Tourer, which came stock with the chainguard and extra-long c'ring bolts and spacers and a 125 mm or so spindle rather than the usual 118 mm spindle Stronglight used for doubles. Chainguard goes where the big ring should go, 52T in the inside position, 40 or 42T with spacers further inboard where a granny ring would go if only the BCD was smaller than 122. I don't think I've ever seen this set up on anything other than Gran(d) Sport(s) and Super Tourers.
I will say though I didn't measure, based on what was said above I definitely think the crank arms are longer than usual (or what I'm used to anyway) because twice now I've taken a corner on my Super Tourer while pedaling and sickening ground the corner of my pedal into the pavement. I've never ever done that before. The big ring is also pretty dang big. The chainguard does make it seem even bigger, too. But apparently it's a well loved vintage part so I kept that sucker on there.
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It's always something....
I think the OP's bike has the crankset and BB of a Raleigh Gran Sport, or maybe a Super Tourer, which came stock with the chainguard and extra-long c'ring bolts and spacers and a 125 mm or so spindle rather than the usual 118 mm spindle Stronglight used for doubles. Chainguard goes where the big ring should go, 52T in the inside position, 40 or 42T with spacers further inboard where a granny ring would go if only the BCD was smaller than 122. I don't think I've ever seen this set up on anything other than Gran(d) Sport(s) and Super Tourers.
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The first thing that looked odd to me were those crappy brake levers. I worked at a Raleigh shop all of my high school years ('72-'76), and I never saw, or - well at least I do not remember any upper-tier Raleigh coming with those pos brake levers. Added by a previous owner maybe? I joined the USAF in '76 right out of high school, and never got to work in an LBS again, until I did it PT while stationed in Florida, and that was '82. By then, those "safety" brake levers were on everything. I'm definitely not a bicycle historian, so if anyone would care to correct me, or add a comment on this, I would be much-obliged.
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On the cranks, yes, you can GENTLY bend the arm back into place. I did it several times back when I had a PX-10 fetish, and I just took my time and it was fine. Were this my bike, I would track down a nice clean Stronglight 118 mm spindle and install that, then remove the chainguard and fit both rings directly on the crank with standard double-length bolts. I suspect that this crankset has been on the bike for a long time, maybe even from when it left the shop - but I also strongly suspect someone a long time ago swapped out a T.A. crankset and put this one on in its place.
The brake levers on the OP's bike are NOT stock. Standard would have been Weinmann with quick release tab, oval cutouts on the front face of the levers and black Carlton hoods.
The brake levers on the OP's bike are NOT stock. Standard would have been Weinmann with quick release tab, oval cutouts on the front face of the levers and black Carlton hoods.
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Cranky
On the cranks, yes, you can GENTLY bend the arm back into place. I did it several times back when I had a PX-10 fetish, and I just took my time and it was fine. Were this my bike, I would track down a nice clean Stronglight 118 mm spindle and install that, then remove the chainguard and fit both rings directly on the crank with standard double-length bolts. I suspect that this crankset has been on the bike for a long time, maybe even from when it left the shop - but I also strongly suspect someone a long time ago swapped out a T.A. crankset and put this one on in its place.
The brake levers on the OP's bike are NOT stock. Standard would have been Weinmann with quick release tab, oval cutouts on the front face of the levers and black Carlton hoods.
The brake levers on the OP's bike are NOT stock. Standard would have been Weinmann with quick release tab, oval cutouts on the front face of the levers and black Carlton hoods.
So I was told the brakes are stock (turkey bits aside) though you come across as fairly adamant that they are not, though they are Weinmann's with oval cut outs. Where would the quick releases be on the stock ones you speak of? (I've done a precursory search for black Carlton half hoods... don't seem to be any reproduction ones around.) Thanks for your perspective.
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Dang it, I shoulda looked closer!
Looking at your recent pix, you DO have the correct levers, but they have been modified to take the extensions. The quick and easy way to do this would be to remove said turkey levers and either saw off the extended posts or replace them with some that are the correct length to allow the use of hoods. You could then run black Cane Creek hoods, which I would think are pretty close, or you can seek out an original set of Carlton marked ones, like this -
- though hopefully in better condition than the set I received with my '73.
Looking at your recent pix, you DO have the correct levers, but they have been modified to take the extensions. The quick and easy way to do this would be to remove said turkey levers and either saw off the extended posts or replace them with some that are the correct length to allow the use of hoods. You could then run black Cane Creek hoods, which I would think are pretty close, or you can seek out an original set of Carlton marked ones, like this -
- though hopefully in better condition than the set I received with my '73.
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Picked up this 1976 Raleigh Competition Mk. II when I was looking for a (seemingly pretty rare?) Huret Jubilee first gen FD for another bike. And as has happened in the past, this bike is way too pretty and original to pull the FD from... so it looks like I have another (lovely) bike. It's actually not all original... the rims and spokes have been replaced, but that aside, it is untouched with all of the fabulous French/Swiss mech. It was a New England yard sale find and I picked it up from the fellow whose father was a friend of the original owner.... so it more or less is (and presents as) a one owner bike.
These photos are in its "as found by me" state (though "cleaned up" by the seller, so he said). It's filthy and the saddle is shot (and missing its cantle) but that aside it's in shockingly good shape. I have a feeling this one is going to clean up wonderfully. I can't fault the previous owner for replacing the rims as they thoughtfully laced the new ones to the (very smooth) original Normandy Luxe Competition hubs! My lucky day it seems.
These photos are in its "as found by me" state (though "cleaned up" by the seller, so he said). It's filthy and the saddle is shot (and missing its cantle) but that aside it's in shockingly good shape. I have a feeling this one is going to clean up wonderfully. I can't fault the previous owner for replacing the rims as they thoughtfully laced the new ones to the (very smooth) original Normandy Luxe Competition hubs! My lucky day it seems.
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#37
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Took an hour-long ride on my Comp MkII today...
....need the toe clips and straps I ordered (expected this Friday).
One-sided pedals rolling over on me at start-ups and a few missed shifts.
Ugh. Not fun.
TA crank(52/42) and Jubilee FD continue to shift superbly.
Quick, smooth,quiet.
Fingers crossed, but currently no sign of band clamp failure.
My Bike history: Down Tube > STIs > Bar Ends.
First bike with bar-end shifters, Suntour, and I'm enjoying them.
Would choose bar ends over down-tube levers...shifting much more frequently since riding regularly with STIs...bar ends quick and convenient ( for old tech).
Here's to more Comp MkII updates.
Love the stories.
One-sided pedals rolling over on me at start-ups and a few missed shifts.
Ugh. Not fun.
TA crank(52/42) and Jubilee FD continue to shift superbly.
Quick, smooth,quiet.
Fingers crossed, but currently no sign of band clamp failure.
My Bike history: Down Tube > STIs > Bar Ends.
First bike with bar-end shifters, Suntour, and I'm enjoying them.
Would choose bar ends over down-tube levers...shifting much more frequently since riding regularly with STIs...bar ends quick and convenient ( for old tech).
Here's to more Comp MkII updates.
Love the stories.
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Follis Folly
So I decided to keep my eyes out for a narrow Stronglight crank, in case I felt like ditching the chain guard on the Raleigh Competition. I found the crank I wanted nearby for a song and couldn't resist picking it up.
But.... it came attached to a vintage Follis, frame and forks are Reynolds 531... much too small a frame for me, but not something one sees everyday here in the Rocky Mountains. I rode it around as is a little bit and it feels like a really nice frame. It's not one of the high end Follis(es?) Folli? but it's no slouch. A bit rough around the edges at the moment, but I think if it was my size I'd clean it up and keep it!
Any Follis fans out there who can shed some light? @juvela @verktyg ?
I don't think much is original.. maybe a Mavic rim, maybe aside from the crank and cogs, the stem and bars? some of the headset? I think that's about it though... lots of Shimano 600 bits (Shimano 400 FD). Is that a map of France on the ATAX stem??? Has Simplex shift levers though!
Simplex forged dropouts and chrome socks all around. They're what caught my eye. Mid or early 1970s?
This thing is probably worthy of it's own thread.
But.... it came attached to a vintage Follis, frame and forks are Reynolds 531... much too small a frame for me, but not something one sees everyday here in the Rocky Mountains. I rode it around as is a little bit and it feels like a really nice frame. It's not one of the high end Follis(es?) Folli? but it's no slouch. A bit rough around the edges at the moment, but I think if it was my size I'd clean it up and keep it!
Any Follis fans out there who can shed some light? @juvela @verktyg ?
I don't think much is original.. maybe a Mavic rim, maybe aside from the crank and cogs, the stem and bars? some of the headset? I think that's about it though... lots of Shimano 600 bits (Shimano 400 FD). Is that a map of France on the ATAX stem??? Has Simplex shift levers though!
Simplex forged dropouts and chrome socks all around. They're what caught my eye. Mid or early 1970s?
This thing is probably worthy of it's own thread.
#39
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Early 70's Follis Lower End Performance Model
So I decided to keep my eyes out for a narrow Stronglight crank, in case I felt like ditching the chain guard on the Raleigh Competition. I found the crank I wanted nearby for a song and couldn't resist picking it up.
But.... it came attached to a vintage Follis, frame and forks are Reynolds 531... much too small a frame for me, but not something one sees everyday here in the Rocky Mountains. I rode it around as is a little bit and it feels like a really nice frame. It's not one of the high end Follis(es?) Folli? but it's no slouch. A bit rough around the edges at the moment, but I think if it was my size I'd clean it up and keep it!
I don't think much is original.. maybe a Mavic rim, maybe aside from the crank and cogs, the stem and bars? some of the headset? I think that's about it though... lots of Shimano 600 bits (Shimano 400 FD). Is that a map of France on the ATAX stem??? Has Simplex shift levers though!
Simplex forged dropouts and chrome socks all around. They're what caught my eye. Mid or early 1970s?
But.... it came attached to a vintage Follis, frame and forks are Reynolds 531... much too small a frame for me, but not something one sees everyday here in the Rocky Mountains. I rode it around as is a little bit and it feels like a really nice frame. It's not one of the high end Follis(es?) Folli? but it's no slouch. A bit rough around the edges at the moment, but I think if it was my size I'd clean it up and keep it!
I don't think much is original.. maybe a Mavic rim, maybe aside from the crank and cogs, the stem and bars? some of the headset? I think that's about it though... lots of Shimano 600 bits (Shimano 400 FD). Is that a map of France on the ATAX stem??? Has Simplex shift levers though!
Simplex forged dropouts and chrome socks all around. They're what caught my eye. Mid or early 1970s?
This is a mid to late bike boom Model 172 from 1972-74 in a interesting tan with dark brown lugs. The decals were light blue. Follis bikes were not very common in the US.
The 172 was in the Gitane TdF and Peugeot PR-10 - PX10 range. Only the 3 main tubes were Reynolds 531. The Stronglight 93 cranks, ATAX bars and stem, parts of the headset and the Simplex Criterium shift levers are all that's original.
The 172 came with Stronglight 93, Nervar or TA cranks (depending on availability), Simplex Criterium derailleurs, Mafac Competition brakes, Normandy Sport hubs with sewup rims, alloy seatpost with a cheap saddle and an ATAX cast aluminum stem with ATAX alloy bars.
This one on the Classic Rendezvous website is a little more original but not much. It shows the blue decals.
Follis bicycles, home
Follis made tandems for most of the other French manufacturers including Peugeot, Motobecane, Bertin, a few for Gitane and also for Mel Pinto Imports. They were made in a variety of quality levers during the 70's and early 80's. The giveaway was the lugless oversize frames with these curved dual plate fork crowns:
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More Follis
Thanks @verktyg Your insight and opinions are always thoughtful and informative. I saw that Follis catalog floating around the Internet and after doing some digging I found a couple of other Follis frames similar (almost identical I think) to mine. I get the sense that mine and the few I've come across like it either pre or post-date the production runs laid out in that catalog. There seem to be some differences. Hard to tell if they're on the younger side or older side of the 72-74 bracket you mention though. Or given the inconsistencies of French manufacture back then, perhaps they all just come from an odd lot. Anyway, I've included a couple that I found that look like mine (including one from a member here, @Wildwood ). They have a more chocolate & cream paint scheme, whereas mine is cream & chocolate. Close serial numbers as well with one.... A715 and mine, A618. Interesting stuff.... I'll throw more of what I've found in a new thread. Thanks again.
My recent find
Wildwood's Immaculate Follis
A similar frame that I found for sale online
And another stripped down similar Follis frame turned into a beautiful randonneur
#41
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Not quite there yet....
....but she is at least cleaned up, serviced, and rideable.
Probably won't do more than throw some more supple tires on, some bar tape, and ride her around for a while. Not sure when I'll get to that so thought it worth posting some photos of how she cleaned up thus far.
Looks pretty nice for not much more than a (really through disassembly) wash and service.
Was planning on stripping and repainting, etc. but looks decent as-is so I'm not in any rush.
I'm still not entirely sold on the chain-guard as I love the look of these Stronglight cranks in the raw... but it is original.... but I might take it off all the same. Still undecided there.
I'm still feeling super fortunate to stumble across an unmolested Competition in such good shape, especially one with chrome front and rear!
Probably won't do more than throw some more supple tires on, some bar tape, and ride her around for a while. Not sure when I'll get to that so thought it worth posting some photos of how she cleaned up thus far.
Looks pretty nice for not much more than a (really through disassembly) wash and service.
Was planning on stripping and repainting, etc. but looks decent as-is so I'm not in any rush.
I'm still not entirely sold on the chain-guard as I love the look of these Stronglight cranks in the raw... but it is original.... but I might take it off all the same. Still undecided there.
I'm still feeling super fortunate to stumble across an unmolested Competition in such good shape, especially one with chrome front and rear!
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#42
Disraeli Gears
Originally Posted by CriticalThought
.. but from what I read it was only in 1976 (if I recall correctly, though I could be off) that the Jubilee FD and RD were standard.
I bought mine new, in 1974. I think they offered the Huret Jubilee drive train for a couple of years.
At least going back to '72.
.. but from what I read it was only in 1976 (if I recall correctly, though I could be off) that the Jubilee FD and RD were standard.
I bought mine new, in 1974. I think they offered the Huret Jubilee drive train for a couple of years.
At least going back to '72.
#43
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Thought I'd throw some pictures up of today's ride....
This bike ended up being a keeper.
This bike ended up being a keeper.
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#45
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I was dubious about the Stronglight crank when I first got my Super Tourer - I thought it looked a little doofy with the chainguard. But I definitely grew to love it. I took it apart and cleaned it and it looks pretty dope now on the bike.
I will say though I didn't measure, based on what was said above I definitely think the crank arms are longer than usual (or what I'm used to anyway) because twice now I've taken a corner on my Super Tourer while pedaling and sickening ground the corner of my pedal into the pavement. I've never ever done that before. The big ring is also pretty dang big. The chainguard does make it seem even bigger, too. But apparently it's a well loved vintage part so I kept that sucker on there.
If you decide you want lower gearing, that
I will say though I didn't measure, based on what was said above I definitely think the crank arms are longer than usual (or what I'm used to anyway) because twice now I've taken a corner on my Super Tourer while pedaling and sickening ground the corner of my pedal into the pavement. I've never ever done that before. The big ring is also pretty dang big. The chainguard does make it seem even bigger, too. But apparently it's a well loved vintage part so I kept that sucker on there.
If you decide you want lower gearing, that
I make the triplizer rings, so it's admittedly self-serving of me to bring this up. I usually manage to restrain myself, but couldn't do it it this time. Sorry.
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#46
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Hey J.Higgins It's a Brooks saddle bag. It's not "period" but it is old. I think this version was made most recently in the 1990s if I had to guess. It was before Brooks got trendy and fashionable with their accessories. The more current versions is a bit to flash and modern for me. This one looks more or less just like the originals from way back. They didn't make this version for long though and they don't turn up often. But I love it and use it a lot. It had leather straps and metal buckles, but the body is pleather, though it is stiffened and pretty nicely lined.
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Thanks jonwvara Do you have any pics of what it looks like all set up as a triple?
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Hey J.Higgins It's a Brooks saddle bag. It's not "period" but it is old. I think this version was made most recently in the 1990s if I had to guess. It was before Brooks got trendy and fashionable with their accessories. The more current versions is a bit to flash and modern for me. This one looks more or less just like the originals from way back. They didn't make this version for long though and they don't turn up often. But I love it and use it a lot. It had leather straps and metal buckles, but the body is pleather, though it is stiffened and pretty nicely lined.
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It was really nice bumping into this thread. I got a Raleigh Competition in the Summer of 1973 and really enjoyed it. I thought it was great and it was all I could afford, even with my cousin being the Raleigh dealer. I believe the rear stays were not the Reynolds 531 tubing used in the rest of the bike.
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What a fine looking machine, anybody that is confused about Raleigh cred needs to see this, if they're still confused maybe they would need to ride it too, or run out of town on a rail.