Classtime 

Nowadays and for all days, a can of Mastic will last a long time, is less expensive than tape, and makes repairs a breeze.

brewerkz 

as others have said
1. remove and sell the saddle to fund your upgrades or at least preserve it.
2. go thru the bike and regrease the various bearings, maybe switch to sealed BB, may need to recable it as well, have the wheels trued. check if brake pads are stopping well or are dried out and hard.
3. put a new set of tubulars on (or watch for a set of 6 speed 700C clinchers to buy), make sure they have the same hub width, and a 6 speed freewheel fits your derailleur capability.
4. don't repaint it, just clean it up as a very nice rider. Clean off the frame, give it a good coating of car wax. It doesn't have much restoration value, actually more parted out value then value as a complete bike.

BikePower

When i first put my hands on the bike it seemed very small and i was dissapointed that i wouldn't be able to ride it.

I measured the seat tube from the center of the crank to the top of the tube and it is exactly 23" (58.42cm). I checked the chart and things were looking up.

Then i pumped up the tires and stood over it and i could comfortably stand flat footed but it is touching with virtually no space between me and the top tube.

With the saddle in the lowest position I can touch the ground with both feet on my tip toes. Any higher than a half inch or so and I wouldn't be able to.

I'm just wondering because in all the photos of road bikes I see, the seat is always up several inches but mine is all the way down.

I'm thinking you might be right and I need a 22" frame instead.

I also tested my wingspan to height ratio and it is 1.06.

I read that if it is greater than 1, then a bigger frame than is indicated in the chart can be used.

What do you think?

tgot 

There is no need to touch the ground with your bum on the saddle. As you slow down, stand on the pedals and get yourself ahead of the saddle, so that you can put one foot at pedal-bottom to hold your weight while your hips lower and the other foot reaches down to the ground.

BTinNYC 

I can't put both feet down on tiptoe from the saddle, just one foot plus a bit of tipping. I think you're good.

RB1-luvr

that's a sweet bike. I would service it and keep it mostly original.

cegerer

That sticker with the 'Lot' number may indicate it was sold at an auction at some point. Cool, quality bike. I'd leave it as is, original and do the minimum to get it to nice riding condition. Not much value except to someone who had one in the day and is trying to find another.

genejockey 

As others have said, you don't need both feet to touch the ground from the saddle. If you set your saddle height that way, your saddle will be MUCH too low! You should never be on the saddle when you come to a stop.

A good rule of thumb for saddle height is this: sitting on the saddle where you'd normally sit, set the height so you can JUST put your heel on the pedal with the pedal as far away as possible, and your leg straight. That way, with your foot on the pedal so that the ball of your foot is directly over the spindle, your leg will be slightly bent.

Once you've done that, if the saddle STILL seems too low (i.e. slammed down onto the top tube, then, yeah, the bike is too large for you.

Regarding that chart - it's really just guidelines. The length of your legs relative to your overall height is the key.

BikePower

Ive painted cars, so I should be able to prep and paint a little bike. But, now that ive had time to think things through and spend time with her, theres no way I would paint it. Shes so gorgeous, Im loving this color now. and that 80s thing.. I cant deny that.

BikePower

Ok, I have the seat adjusted now and this is definitely the right size bike for me. I followed your instructions and all is well. Thank you.

Now its time to dial in my stem reach and rise. According to the one picture Ive seen from the catalog, the Cinelli stem and bars that's on there is not original. Neither are the bars. From what I gather the original stem is a 120 Nitto Pearl, black. I dont know what bars it came with originally but I would like to know. If anyone has a 1986, 1987 Nashbar catalog with that bikes specs in it, that would be incredible. The date on the bike is December 1986 so it may be built with 1986 or 1987 specs. Anyone know where I could see a catalog? Much appreciated.

Im working my way around the bike in my free time making a list of everything I need for the restoration. I am embarrassed to remember that I once considered stripping and painting this bike. I now realize the absurdity of that thought. The more time I spend with her, the more I love the color and 80s awesomeness.

This week Im ordering new tubies in blackwall, tire glue going with the Mastic because I understand that it can be moved if I need to unmount the tire and replace it while on the road.. Thats crucial.

I will post up progress pictures as I go along in case anyone is interested.

shoota 

Cool bike! I'm with the others, don't repaint it. I can never understand why folks want to immediately paint their new-to-them bike. The other day a friend asked if I had a bike to sell for her son going to college. Sure enough, I did. A nice little Specialized Hard Rock, the ones known for their cool paint jobs. He comes over, looks at it, barely takes it down the driveway, pays, and then says "I can't wait to paint it orange."

BikePower

I removed the saddle to preserve it as you advised. Its very comfortable and doesnt hurt at all, but if its that valuable I dont want to diminish it for someone who really wants that specific saddle. Now Im on the hunt for a black leather saddle that fits my pelvis properly and doesnt put pressure on the perineum.

jdawginsc 

Selle Italia SLR Max Gel is one of the most comfortable I have used. Have several of them on bikes and in the stash. https://www.ebay.com/itm/18622398917...Bk9SR9SpneGfYw


Also, some of the men's Terrys.




​​​​​​

BikePower

Thanks Jdawg! Its on the way!!

madpogue 

🎶I see a Hard Rock and I want to paint it orange. I have no taste in bikes, I want it to turn orange....🎶

madpogue 

If you're in/near Collier or Lee county RUN, don't walk and grab that Sirrus listed above. Granted, it's not the bargain you got, but as said, if it has clinchers, then you have two bikes between which you can swap wheels.

I don't remember the exact details, but don't try to put any other brand of handlebar, especially a flat bar, on that Cinelli stem. It's a slightly different clamp diameter, and the stem won't ever clamp down tightly on another bar, and you can damage the stem trying to get it to do so (not that I would know first-hand or anything....cough....cough....). In fact, if you're really fixed on switching to a flat bar, I would remove the bar/stem together, with the brake levers and cables in place, so you can sell that as an assembly. You would need flat-bar brake levers anyway.

That said, I would seriously think twice about running a flat bar with downtube shifters. My wife tried that for a while, and didn't like that reach. She went back to drop bars. That Sirrus in Ft Myers is set up that way; if you buy it, you could use that as your "test dummy" for such a setup.

And joining the chorus - don't repaint it.

BikePower

I thought about the downtube shifter thing also, definitely will take practice. I was thinking bullhorn, moustache, or albatross bars in that order.

And once again for the record i have no intention of painting the bike. For a moment it crossed my mind when i first saw it but now i realize it would be blasphemy and a crime against the c and v community. Its a gorgeous color and styling, the epitome of the 80s.

BikePower

well i bought tires for it but they seem small? Is this the right size?

smd4

That right there tells me it's too big for you.

Classtime 

Those are ok first tubulars. Expensive tires ride nicer. If you got a deal, your good. But, the rally’s I had were very difficult to patch because the base tape is very very hard to peel back and get access to the tube.

23s we’re very fast in 1986. I can’t imagine they have slowed down much. 😉

BikePower

how much space should there be with a properly sized bike?

smd4

I would have suggested that you be able to lift the front wheel an inch before hitting anything.

But, as the saying goes, YMMV. It is a pretty nice bike.

70sSanO

For me it is not about clearance standing flat footed, it is about knee and torso comfort and staying balanced.

I personally like KOPS or slightly back and I want to feel comfortable in the drops without feeling too scrunched or too laid out. Swapping stems to get there while still being balanced fore and aft is fine.

Ideally being to ride hands free, and not too much pressure on hands while on the hoods or in the drops.

I’ve traditionally ridden bikes a little too big for me, long torso. I have also gone down on both road and mountain bikes. Lack of standover height never an issue. Unfortunately other areas of my body not always so lucky.

John

icemilkcoffee 

There is no real hard and fast rule. Was it Eddy Merckx or Greg Lemond who said there should be a fistful of seat post showing. Of course that is a completely subjective and very murky rule. Some frames stick out above the top tube more than others. Some seatpost have more height above the 'post' than others. And of course everyone's fist is a different size. So in the end there is really no ironclad rule. As long as you can stand over the top tube without going 'ouch' you're golden. Or you could even disregard that rule. Jean Robic at 5' tall, could not stand over his bikes but that didn't stop him from winning a Tour De France:

smd4

Fine. Still recommend 1” clearance.