Raleigh Clubman through axle rear wtf?
#1
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Raleigh Clubman through axle rear wtf?
the bicycle started having a clicking sound coming from the rear wheel so I've refurbished the wheel.
It's really weird.
I don't know the brand of the hub but it has two different sized ball bearings. Drive side has 3/16 and opposite uses 1/8.
I"m having a really hard time getting the skewer to be the right length for the the frame. Also, the drive side has a locking nut...but the opposite doesn't have a locking nut. This is very odd. It may have fallen off, I dunno. Anyways, I need help in refurbishing this wheel. It's taken a lot more time than I thought it would.
It's 15mm. I can't even find a locking 15mm nut in any cycling site. I guess this standard never took off on the roadbike world?
It's really weird.
I don't know the brand of the hub but it has two different sized ball bearings. Drive side has 3/16 and opposite uses 1/8.
I"m having a really hard time getting the skewer to be the right length for the the frame. Also, the drive side has a locking nut...but the opposite doesn't have a locking nut. This is very odd. It may have fallen off, I dunno. Anyways, I need help in refurbishing this wheel. It's taken a lot more time than I thought it would.
It's 15mm. I can't even find a locking 15mm nut in any cycling site. I guess this standard never took off on the roadbike world?
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So, what are you asking about again. Skewer... to be the right length for the frame? 15mm what? Thru axel or Quick release skewer? Locking ring?
To bad you didn't take pics of the 15mm skewer that is in question.
To bad you didn't take pics of the 15mm skewer that is in question.
#5
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It is the design of the hub that is really weird.
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If you want help, please (1) provide more info, (2) formulate some actual questions, and (3) please provide some clearer photos that show the problems. You've provided a collection of confusing, incomplete sentences.
For starters, though, from the photos you have provided - and from the thread title - it looks like your dropouts are designed for thru-axles, not for quick releases. Please provide a photo of the actual axle or skewer that goes through the hub. It sounds as if you simply don't know how to use it.
Then try posting a more detailed description and photos of the hub issue.
For starters, though, from the photos you have provided - and from the thread title - it looks like your dropouts are designed for thru-axles, not for quick releases. Please provide a photo of the actual axle or skewer that goes through the hub. It sounds as if you simply don't know how to use it.
Then try posting a more detailed description and photos of the hub issue.
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He has quick release through axles.
I bought a Rayleigh Tamland a few years back and it had the same weird hub with super small ball bearings on the drive side. The drive side cones had the smallest contact area I have ever seen. had nothing but trouble from that POS, so when it started popping spokes after just a few months of use I replaced it with a different hub. I would strongly suggest you do the same, you can get a new hub laced onto your existing rim.
BTW, what is 15 mm? the lock nut holding the hub together or the diameter of the through axle itself?
I bought a Rayleigh Tamland a few years back and it had the same weird hub with super small ball bearings on the drive side. The drive side cones had the smallest contact area I have ever seen. had nothing but trouble from that POS, so when it started popping spokes after just a few months of use I replaced it with a different hub. I would strongly suggest you do the same, you can get a new hub laced onto your existing rim.
BTW, what is 15 mm? the lock nut holding the hub together or the diameter of the through axle itself?
Last edited by Pop N Wood; 09-08-20 at 05:23 AM.
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That is a 12mm thru axle hub and I assure you that it is the current standard for rear thru axle hubs. It looks like you are missing the end cap from the disc side of the axle. None of us really know for sure what's missing, since you are the one who took it apart and your photo is pretty blurry.
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are you sure it's 15mm and not 12mm? 142x12mm thru axles are quickly becoming ubiquitous on road bikes, so the presence of this one is not surprising. 142x12 is an easy standard to find for the hub, but the axle is specific to the frame in most cases. there are a few "standards" for thru axles, but there are a lot of different options and one-off iterations. sounds like you lost part of your frame that holds the axle in place.
Last edited by mack_turtle; 09-08-20 at 07:38 AM.
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Thread moved from General to Mechanics.
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#11
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Bike names stay applied to newer bikes.. even the names get resold.. Raleigh has left Nottingham over a generation ago.
Through axle is the latest must do ... mostly Pac Rim Contract Manufacturing..
Through axle is the latest must do ... mostly Pac Rim Contract Manufacturing..