feejer

So the wife has a mid 90's Specialized hybrid bike, and would like it brought up to more modern standards. It will also be a way for me to learn how to do the work as well, so a double win. Anyway, it seems to have a 126mm rear end, and has the original 6 speed. So I've seen the Velo Orange 126mm hub, which they state can take up to a 7 speed freewheel. This one - https://velo-orange.com/products/gra...heel-hub-126mm

I'm stumped on the drive train. I was originally thinking about a Tiagra 3x setup, but certainly don't need ten speeds. Would there be any modern 8 speed freewheels/cassettes that would fit and function on that hub? If so, any ideas on the drive train? She really likes riding that bike, but it would be much nicer to have it as up to date as possible. Appreciate any input.

icemilkcoffee 

Forget about the outdated freewheels. You can buy 126mm Hubs that take a 7 speed HG cassette. With a 7 speed cassette you can update to STI brifters. In fact you can still buy brand new Shimano Tourney 7 speed brifters.

dsbrantjr

The linked hub will only accept freewheels, not cassettes, and only 5, 6 and 7 speed freewheels. There is nothing wrong with an Nx7 drivetrain.
If the bike frame is steel it can be spread to 130mm or 135mm which will open up a lot more rear hub possibilities. A cassette hub will be less prone to axle breakage than a freewheel hub. The hub will need to be laced into a wheel (it would likely be cheaper to buy a built wheel) and you will need new shifters to go to more speeds than you have at present. It might be more economical to look into a new bike unless you are going to do the work yourself.

bikemig 

There are advantages to spreading the frame and going with a cassette.

But there's also a lot to be said for recycling what you have. If you need new wheels, these wheels from velomine are decently priced.

https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...oducts_id=3135

You should be able to reuse most of what you have if you go with wheels like this.

If you want different hand positions, the cheapest fix is a trekking bar. Your old parts will work and they are comfortable bars with multiple hand positions. I set up an old mountain bike with them just for that reason.

feejer

Thanks for the info, obviously I need more time learning about hubs.

The wheels and pretty much every other component on this bike are trash, I'm going to start with all new components. And, the more I think about it a 3x7 would do fine and shouldn't need to spread the frame assuming I can find a 126mm cassette hub. I'll definitely look into the Tourney flat bar brake shifters, those would be exactly what I'd want to put on this bike.

Google is hinting that the shifters won't be the hard part to track down, but a 126mm cassette hub might be, back to the search.

Appreciate the info!

bikemig 

7 speed shimano compatible freewheels that are available; you may find this an easier route to go if sticking with 126 OLD.

fishboat

I recently did a 3x7 drop bar conversion on a 3x7 speed mtn bike. I went with Tourney brifters..got them off of Amazon as a returned/no packing thing at $63 for the pair, including cables and housing...they work perfectly.

fietsbob

I had a 126 Phil freewheel hub on my touring bike wheel build. .. those axle assemblies don't break.

CliffordK

I wouldn't go with a 11-speed setup.

However, I have successfully done a 9-speed (thus, 8/9/10 speed) using 126mm spacing.

Find an "Off-Center" (OC) or "Asymmetric" rear rim. (Velocity A23 OC, or DT Swiss RR411 Asymmetric, or similar).

Find a Shimano hub with an 8/9/10 cassette freehub. Remove the spacer on the right left side. If it is an aluminum frame, you can simply re-center the axle. If it is a steel frame, then cut a few mm off of the axle.

Unfortunately Shimano has mostly stopped making 8/9/10 hubs for the road market, so you may be stuck with NOS or used. Possibly some MTB hubs.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-105...B/233687975895

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Velocity-A2...c/264501228868

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DT-Swiss-RR...s/282938510219

veganbikes

Phil Wood is still making freewheel hubs. I bought a set last year for my Phil Wood Apple VeloXS bike couldn't be happier with them.

CliffordK

Did you mention whether the bike had a steel frame or an aluminum frame?

I'm a bit surprised that anybody would have sold a 126mm frame in the 90's. Perhaps early 90's or late 80's? Or, even look to see if the seat stays are bowed in like someone put in the wrong wheel?

Anyway, I mentioned how you could make a 8/9/10 speed wheel work in 126mm. But, you may choose to simply respace the frame so that you can share wheels between bikes. One size fits all. It could simplify your life.

Thomas15

feejer, It is very difficult to fault this thinking^^^.

Not to talk you out of anything but same as you feejer while I have a reasonable collection of tools and some mechanical abilities and like you a desire to work on bikes, dsbrantjr makes a very good point based on my experience. I have an old but in good condition steel frame road bike that I wanted to update and use strictly on the local rail trail. The dropouts are 126mm came with a 6 speed freewheel (2x6). What I wanted to do is upgrade to SIS 7 speed (2x7) which does not require spreading the rear and since the wheels are in good condition I'm using them. My bike had non-aero brake levers with the QR in the suicide levers and stem shifters. Both front and rear derailleurs were non-SIS.

I went with Micronew brifters ($53 on Amazon). They do not come with instructions but not that hard to figure out. Work good BTW. I replaced the brake calipers to get a QR feature ($20) All new brake and shifter cables (I buy bulk but figure $25) indexable derailleurs (I think about +$50) I put clipless pedals on but that was an extra so NC. A new 7 speed freewheel I think about $30. I have over $200 in this and need new tires and tubes and will prolly replace the old lose ball bearing BB with new. Point is I'm going to have +$300 in this project before it's done. And I probably will swap out the stem for threadless so more money. Normally I would not be able to sell this bike for anywhere near the amount I have in it. Almost every aspect of this upgrade gave me fits in one form or another. I'm glad I did it but it wasn't the best use of the money. Food for thought.

feejer

Oh I fully agree that this project would never break even, not even close. It's a bike the wife was always comfortable riding, much more than her newer bike, and it means something to her. It's also a way for me to learn some assembly skills, which will come in handy over the winter building a bike for myself. Not only that, but with potentially 5 bike between us, some maintenance and repair skills are going to be needed!

And I am really stumped on a rear hub. I found a set of Shimano 7 speed brake shifters that are still available, and would really like to stay HG if at all possible. I just can't seem to find anything yet, maybe a UG to HG freewheel swap on a 126 UG hub?

Bill Kapaun

I'm surprised a "mid 90's" bike is spaced at 126. My 87 Rockhopper is 130.
Have you actually measured between the DO's?

feejer

I did a rough measure with calipers, but with the wheel still on the bike, just didn't have time to pull it off then. I can certainly get a more accurate measurement once I get back to the bike.

cpach

If the bike is steel I'd really recommend just getting it spread to 130mm. I know shops are really busy, but this isn't a particularly hard job for someone who's done it a few times and has the right tools. If you want, you can almost certainly just spread the stays by hand when inserting the wheel until you can spread the stays correctly and realign the dropouts properly.

ShannonM

126 would surprise me on a 90s Specialized. But then, so does the 6-speed freewheel. 128mm wouldn't be a shock at all, that was pretty common back in the early 90s, when the manufacturers wanted to use the same frame for 7-speed (cheaper) and 8-speed (TOTL) bikes.

Even if it is 126, I've stuck many a 130mm hub into many a 126mm dropout, and never had a problem. If it's 128, well, that's why they built it that way... throw whatever wheel, with whatever cassette you want (7, 8, 9, 10....), get the right shifters, build bike, ride bike.

--Shannon

dedhed

Nobody in their right mind is considering a $200 Phil Wood hub for a '90's hybrid. I don't know why you would even mention them.

fietsbob

I bought the hub shell at a Sausalito Cal Bike shops Garage sale, Phil put the axle assembly in

@ 1980 prices..

otherwise bent, broken, axles on freewheel hubs are a fact of life.

kyguy

I am new to this site. Been on a lot of Forums. Most of them have a lot of Replys that dont make sense or are Rude. Keep this up please.

Thomas15

Fair enough.

I hope you are able to keep us informed with regular progress updates of this upgrade!

alcjphil

Good to know. It is very important to know your starting point. Rear dropout spacing is an important starting point.126mm spacing is very limiting if you are buying new. 130mm spacing opens up a whole world of much better quality 8,9, and even 10 speed options of much higher quality than the bargain basement 7 speed stuff available mainly sold for discount department store bikes. it has been 35 years since high end bikes were equipped with 7 speed shifting. Nothing made today for 7 speed is anything even approaching mediocre in quality

veganbikes

I mentioned it because it is a possibility and something that I can get more easily. 126 options are tougher to find these days so if there is a solution I will provide it.

dedhed

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-.../dp/B0063R24OY

squirtdad

sheldon 2 by 4 method worked for me.... 126 to 135... .126 to 130 would be easier https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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