Leg Length Solutions
#26
Senior Member
I would just add, beware as I suspect that might be really darn slippy in the wet, but if it works well, there would always be workarounds with adding some ridgey stuff or whatever to the top of the wood.
keep us appraised of how it feels riding etc, as this might be something that I would try at some point.
how is riding going overall?
keep us appraised of how it feels riding etc, as this might be something that I would try at some point.
how is riding going overall?
#27
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Stair tread grip tape could make wood block less slippery ..
Or small finish nails not quite hammered fully in ..
Or small finish nails not quite hammered fully in ..
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Yikes, be careful about non-slippery-ifying it. If your foot slips off the pedal sometime, that could get pretty painful. 😲 Hey, why not put sand in the paint, if you want to paint it anyways. 😎
#29
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The block of wood is a cool idea. However, wood will deteriorate over time. Screws holding parts on that are exposed to any force will work themselves loose over time. Tightening the screws up every once in a while isn't going to be enough as the wood material the screws are threaded in to is going to give out, not the screw simply backing out.
For a temporary test, maybe a couple test rides, it would probably work. However, I would not take off on tour with that being your permanent solution to leave on the trek with.
For what it is worth, I have about a 1/2" discrepancy. I started riding back in 2014 with platform pedals and tennis shoes, no toe clips or anything. All my legs did was push. I built up my muscles and tendons to do that motion and nothing in the opposite to balance it out. Long story short, my kneecaps were getting pulled sideways and the one on the left was grinding against the leg bones causing excruciating pain. I spent 4 months in physical therapy over it, off the bike of course. In that time with physical therapy my therapist found the discrepancy and got me on a heel lift.
That $#%ing heel lift was a mistake. It started causing other problems. So I took it out and have never looked back.
The biggest change I made to my riding stamina was to get clip shoes/pedals. They are a bit awkward to get used to, but it didn't take me long. Having my feet fixed to the crank like that is amazing. I can balance out the motion by pulling up on the crank also so it keeps my leg strength balanced.
I do have reversible pedals on my bike - platforms on one side and clips on the other. There are rides I have been on where I have to take the pressure off the balls of my feet and put it on my heels. I can't do that in the clips so I unclip and flip the pedals around. That gives me a lot of flexibility while riding to balance out the wear and comfort.
Last note - don't get too concerned with things being entirely anatomically symmetrical. Do what is right for your body, whether something is symmetrical or not (like the crank length already mentioned). Your body will adapt - just like a new pair of shoes. Give it time and you will adapt.
The hard part is going to be getting all the conditions "right" for your body. If you run a configuration for a few rides and it isn't quite right - change it. As you go note what you adjust so you can go back to your settings should an earlier method/setting work better than the ones after that. Chances are, unless you have been riding a long time and know what should feel right, you are not going to know until you get some real miles in on your changes. That, unfortunately, will take time to work through.
Proper fitment is pretty important. That is definitely your first step - which I see you have already done. That will be a good foundation, but I wouldn't expect that to be the "perfect" set up as you need to adjust things to "you".
For a temporary test, maybe a couple test rides, it would probably work. However, I would not take off on tour with that being your permanent solution to leave on the trek with.
For what it is worth, I have about a 1/2" discrepancy. I started riding back in 2014 with platform pedals and tennis shoes, no toe clips or anything. All my legs did was push. I built up my muscles and tendons to do that motion and nothing in the opposite to balance it out. Long story short, my kneecaps were getting pulled sideways and the one on the left was grinding against the leg bones causing excruciating pain. I spent 4 months in physical therapy over it, off the bike of course. In that time with physical therapy my therapist found the discrepancy and got me on a heel lift.
That $#%ing heel lift was a mistake. It started causing other problems. So I took it out and have never looked back.
The biggest change I made to my riding stamina was to get clip shoes/pedals. They are a bit awkward to get used to, but it didn't take me long. Having my feet fixed to the crank like that is amazing. I can balance out the motion by pulling up on the crank also so it keeps my leg strength balanced.
I do have reversible pedals on my bike - platforms on one side and clips on the other. There are rides I have been on where I have to take the pressure off the balls of my feet and put it on my heels. I can't do that in the clips so I unclip and flip the pedals around. That gives me a lot of flexibility while riding to balance out the wear and comfort.
Last note - don't get too concerned with things being entirely anatomically symmetrical. Do what is right for your body, whether something is symmetrical or not (like the crank length already mentioned). Your body will adapt - just like a new pair of shoes. Give it time and you will adapt.
The hard part is going to be getting all the conditions "right" for your body. If you run a configuration for a few rides and it isn't quite right - change it. As you go note what you adjust so you can go back to your settings should an earlier method/setting work better than the ones after that. Chances are, unless you have been riding a long time and know what should feel right, you are not going to know until you get some real miles in on your changes. That, unfortunately, will take time to work through.
Proper fitment is pretty important. That is definitely your first step - which I see you have already done. That will be a good foundation, but I wouldn't expect that to be the "perfect" set up as you need to adjust things to "you".
#30
Senior Member
I was riding one of my bike yesterday with regular shoes on for a very short ride, all of my bikes have spd pedals, and yesterday reminded me of how as I was going over some train tracks standing on the pedals, like I always do over rough stuff, of how unstable my feet felt over the bumps.
I bring this up just because of what I warned of about if wet, the wood would be very slippery, so if you stood when going over bumps, just be very aware and careful of how your shoe could slip to the side
thats all, just wanted to bring this up again so you are extra careful with this probably short term work around, and to think of simple possible ways to add some "tractiony" stuff to the wood if needed.
the idea of glueing on some sandpaper type stuff is a good one, I know there are some platform pedals sold that have this stuff on them.
but there are probably better ideas out there, you will have to judge how this feels and balance this against how long you'll have it on.
cheers
I bring this up just because of what I warned of about if wet, the wood would be very slippery, so if you stood when going over bumps, just be very aware and careful of how your shoe could slip to the side
thats all, just wanted to bring this up again so you are extra careful with this probably short term work around, and to think of simple possible ways to add some "tractiony" stuff to the wood if needed.
the idea of glueing on some sandpaper type stuff is a good one, I know there are some platform pedals sold that have this stuff on them.
but there are probably better ideas out there, you will have to judge how this feels and balance this against how long you'll have it on.
cheers
#31
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I haven't tried it in the rain yet, I thought it might be okay because of the cages, but after your recommendations I'll add some grip tape before I go anywhere in the rain. The wood itself is a temporary solution to see how my body adjusts to it, I'm going to ride like this for a month or so and see how it feels, it does feel good so far. After that the fitter will build something more permanent, once we are sure of a good adjustment. Kinda annoying and clunky to get my foot into, hopefully I'll get used to that?
#32
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Have you raised your seat? For my 1/2" leg discrepancy, I used a 1/4" shim and raised the seat 1/8". Bikes felt (and feel several years later) perfect.
The revelation was being able to look down and view the bike from exactly the center instead of the bike always appearing askew. Likewise the same amount of spokes showing on either side of the front wheel.
Ben
The revelation was being able to look down and view the bike from exactly the center instead of the bike always appearing askew. Likewise the same amount of spokes showing on either side of the front wheel.
Ben
#33
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Have you raised your seat? For my 1/2" leg discrepancy, I used a 1/4" shim and raised the seat 1/8". Bikes felt (and feel several years later) perfect.
The revelation was being able to look down and view the bike from exactly the center instead of the bike always appearing askew. Likewise the same amount of spokes showing on either side of the front wheel.
Ben
The revelation was being able to look down and view the bike from exactly the center instead of the bike always appearing askew. Likewise the same amount of spokes showing on either side of the front wheel.
Ben
#34
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The block of wood is a cool idea. However, wood will deteriorate over time. Screws holding parts on that are exposed to any force will work themselves loose over time. Tightening the screws up every once in a while isn't going to be enough as the wood material the screws are threaded in to is going to give out, not the screw simply backing out.
For a temporary test, maybe a couple test rides, it would probably work. However, I would not take off on tour with that being your permanent solution to leave on the trek with.
For what it is worth, I have about a 1/2" discrepancy. I started riding back in 2014 with platform pedals and tennis shoes, no toe clips or anything. All my legs did was push. I built up my muscles and tendons to do that motion and nothing in the opposite to balance it out. Long story short, my kneecaps were getting pulled sideways and the one on the left was grinding against the leg bones causing excruciating pain. I spent 4 months in physical therapy over it, off the bike of course. In that time with physical therapy my therapist found the discrepancy and got me on a heel lift.
That $#%ing heel lift was a mistake. It started causing other problems. So I took it out and have never looked back.
The biggest change I made to my riding stamina was to get clip shoes/pedals. They are a bit awkward to get used to, but it didn't take me long. Having my feet fixed to the crank like that is amazing. I can balance out the motion by pulling up on the crank also so it keeps my leg strength balanced.
I do have reversible pedals on my bike - platforms on one side and clips on the other. There are rides I have been on where I have to take the pressure off the balls of my feet and put it on my heels. I can't do that in the clips so I unclip and flip the pedals around. That gives me a lot of flexibility while riding to balance out the wear and comfort.
Last note - don't get too concerned with things being entirely anatomically symmetrical. Do what is right for your body, whether something is symmetrical or not (like the crank length already mentioned). Your body will adapt - just like a new pair of shoes. Give it time and you will adapt.
The hard part is going to be getting all the conditions "right" for your body. If you run a configuration for a few rides and it isn't quite right - change it. As you go note what you adjust so you can go back to your settings should an earlier method/setting work better than the ones after that. Chances are, unless you have been riding a long time and know what should feel right, you are not going to know until you get some real miles in on your changes. That, unfortunately, will take time to work through.
Proper fitment is pretty important. That is definitely your first step - which I see you have already done. That will be a good foundation, but I wouldn't expect that to be the "perfect" set up as you need to adjust things to "you".
For a temporary test, maybe a couple test rides, it would probably work. However, I would not take off on tour with that being your permanent solution to leave on the trek with.
For what it is worth, I have about a 1/2" discrepancy. I started riding back in 2014 with platform pedals and tennis shoes, no toe clips or anything. All my legs did was push. I built up my muscles and tendons to do that motion and nothing in the opposite to balance it out. Long story short, my kneecaps were getting pulled sideways and the one on the left was grinding against the leg bones causing excruciating pain. I spent 4 months in physical therapy over it, off the bike of course. In that time with physical therapy my therapist found the discrepancy and got me on a heel lift.
That $#%ing heel lift was a mistake. It started causing other problems. So I took it out and have never looked back.
The biggest change I made to my riding stamina was to get clip shoes/pedals. They are a bit awkward to get used to, but it didn't take me long. Having my feet fixed to the crank like that is amazing. I can balance out the motion by pulling up on the crank also so it keeps my leg strength balanced.
I do have reversible pedals on my bike - platforms on one side and clips on the other. There are rides I have been on where I have to take the pressure off the balls of my feet and put it on my heels. I can't do that in the clips so I unclip and flip the pedals around. That gives me a lot of flexibility while riding to balance out the wear and comfort.
Last note - don't get too concerned with things being entirely anatomically symmetrical. Do what is right for your body, whether something is symmetrical or not (like the crank length already mentioned). Your body will adapt - just like a new pair of shoes. Give it time and you will adapt.
The hard part is going to be getting all the conditions "right" for your body. If you run a configuration for a few rides and it isn't quite right - change it. As you go note what you adjust so you can go back to your settings should an earlier method/setting work better than the ones after that. Chances are, unless you have been riding a long time and know what should feel right, you are not going to know until you get some real miles in on your changes. That, unfortunately, will take time to work through.
Proper fitment is pretty important. That is definitely your first step - which I see you have already done. That will be a good foundation, but I wouldn't expect that to be the "perfect" set up as you need to adjust things to "you".
So now you ride without any adjustment in your shoes? Do you know which part of your leg is shorter?
My shorter leg is also missing a muscle and has a tiny foot, so I was against clip-ins when I embarked on this mission (as it would have involved two diff shoe sizes). Since getting the trek and riding with cages for the first time I feel like in a year or so I might make the switch because having the cages feels great.
I rode for years without addressing this issue and the strong leg has knee pain and is all out of balance.
#35
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#36
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re knee pain, I may have mentioned this before, but my knees certainly feel when my seat is too low, and I can get knee pain because of this. When I feel this and address the problem, my knee muscles instantly feel the difference, hence why its good to do rides where you have the allen key with you to make seat height changes during the ride, and can feel right away if things feel better or not.
clearly, when one has the seat too high, as it would be if perfect for your longer leg, then your shorter side over extends a bit and you also get that "seat too high" thing going on where a bit too much pressure is being put on our tender parts, and that aint ever good either.
hopefully, this riser will even things out and with micro changes, you'll be able to find a position compromise that works well overall.
having tape or a grease pencil is good to have a visual reference on your seat post before changes, to avoid making boo boos and not knowing where it was before you loosen the seat tube and it slips down and you have to guesstimate where it was and start over again.
clearly, when one has the seat too high, as it would be if perfect for your longer leg, then your shorter side over extends a bit and you also get that "seat too high" thing going on where a bit too much pressure is being put on our tender parts, and that aint ever good either.
hopefully, this riser will even things out and with micro changes, you'll be able to find a position compromise that works well overall.
having tape or a grease pencil is good to have a visual reference on your seat post before changes, to avoid making boo boos and not knowing where it was before you loosen the seat tube and it slips down and you have to guesstimate where it was and start over again.
#37
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re knee pain, I may have mentioned this before, but my knees certainly feel when my seat is too low, and I can get knee pain because of this. When I feel this and address the problem, my knee muscles instantly feel the difference, hence why its good to do rides where you have the allen key with you to make seat height changes during the ride, and can feel right away if things feel better or not.
clearly, when one has the seat too high, as it would be if perfect for your longer leg, then your shorter side over extends a bit and you also get that "seat too high" thing going on where a bit too much pressure is being put on our tender parts, and that aint ever good either.
hopefully, this riser will even things out and with micro changes, you'll be able to find a position compromise that works well overall.
having tape or a grease pencil is good to have a visual reference on your seat post before changes, to avoid making boo boos and not knowing where it was before you loosen the seat tube and it slips down and you have to guesstimate where it was and start over again.
clearly, when one has the seat too high, as it would be if perfect for your longer leg, then your shorter side over extends a bit and you also get that "seat too high" thing going on where a bit too much pressure is being put on our tender parts, and that aint ever good either.
hopefully, this riser will even things out and with micro changes, you'll be able to find a position compromise that works well overall.
having tape or a grease pencil is good to have a visual reference on your seat post before changes, to avoid making boo boos and not knowing where it was before you loosen the seat tube and it slips down and you have to guesstimate where it was and start over again.
#38
Senior Member
when I have flown with my bike, putting it in a store cardboard box, I have been able to just slide the seatpost all the way down, and the seat is ok for the box to close. Problem is a piece of tape for reference doesnt work, a drawn on line gets smudged also, so I finally figured out to scratch a little line in the black paint with a screwdriver, so at least I have that to aim for when putting the bike back together. Before I did this, I usually found out after a day or so that it was a bit too low, and my knee was complaining.....
live and learn.
#39
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This is a set up I made for an older neighbor who had a limited range of motion in his left knee. I got an old crankarm from the bike coop, a local machine shop drilled it and my LBS threaded it with their left hand thread tap. All off the folks did the work for free, when I told them what we were doing. It was almost a 2 1/2" diference in crank lengths. He rode it a lot and did not seem to have any issues. Having said all that, I'm not sure a shorter crank is the way to go. My wife's PT put a 5mm shim under her cleat for her shorter leg. It isn't much, but I think her legs differed by only 10- 12 mm. Good luck on finding the solution.
#40
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very interesting approach Doug, and no surprise to me that you helped out.
why do you think a shorter crank is not a good idea?
Specifically for this persons situation, or in general?
I guess the main thing is that your neighbour was able to ride and it worked reasonably well, keeping moving is always the goal isnt it, so again, very nice gesture on your part to find a solution.
why do you think a shorter crank is not a good idea?
Specifically for this persons situation, or in general?
I guess the main thing is that your neighbour was able to ride and it worked reasonably well, keeping moving is always the goal isnt it, so again, very nice gesture on your part to find a solution.
#42
Senior Member
While I certainly try not to make a habit of it, but if I fall down, you gotta just get up, brush yourself off and get going again.
#44
Senior Member
If it was me I think I'd probably:
- Forget different crank lengths. It won't help.
- Use as much difference in insole height as I could get by with,
- Use 3 bolt road cleats to take advantage of better ability to shim due to larger contact area.
- Use Kool Kovers for walking short to medium distances with the road cleats and carry other shoes for longer distances. A bit of lift or shim on the outside of the heel may help with walking. FWIW, I never found walking with Look cleats and Kool Kovers to be all that bad for moderate distances like going into a store or something.
- Be satisfied with correcting most of the difference or even half of it.
#45
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#46
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You know, it has been so long since I originally posted this thread and I thought I would have an elegant solution fine-tuned, but I am still using that block of wood!!! I didn't even paint it or make it cooler looking in any way. Whoooooooops!!!
#47
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I've wondered if you've been still riding, are you still happy with the trek? Occasionally when I bike past the area where that Martin Swiss store is, I wonder, is that Toronto gal still riding?
Did you ever do any trips? Hope you're riding at least and that the block of wood works alright.
cheers
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hey, if it works!
I've wondered if you've been still riding, are you still happy with the trek? Occasionally when I bike past the area where that Martin Swiss store is, I wonder, is that Toronto gal still riding?
Did you ever do any trips? Hope you're riding at least and that the block of wood works alright.
cheers
I've wondered if you've been still riding, are you still happy with the trek? Occasionally when I bike past the area where that Martin Swiss store is, I wonder, is that Toronto gal still riding?
Did you ever do any trips? Hope you're riding at least and that the block of wood works alright.
cheers
#49
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Hahah, aww! Ya, I still ride a lot. I love the bike, it did have some issues in the first 6 months but everything was covered under warranty. I think I would switch to the Surly tho (for purely aesthetic reasons), but I'll ride Trekky for the next few years and then see what is out there. My original post was leading up to an East Coast tour so I did the Cabot Trail and some of PEI and Nova Scotia which was amazing. I wanted to go to South Korea or Taiwan this year but that is now on hold because of YOU KNOW WHAT : - / So just small Ontario trips until things become more predictable.
With some friends we did Kingston to Montreal, originally thought of T.O to Montreal but my wife thought it would be too long. Kingston to mtl was really nice, the thousand islands area very pretty riding.
YOU KNOW WHO, I mean WHAT certainly changed plans for all of us this summer. As you say, until things are sorted, we'll be doing local stuff, and following the usual protocols, masks, social distancing, keeping out of crowded indoor spots, waa easy on my two trips this summer, and I'm totally used to it all now, knowing that we are keeping it under control this way. Even campgrounds were ok, just using common sense and all was fine.
havea a good fall. Cheers
#50
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Hello from Winnipeg! I have a 3/4" leg discrepancy. For my first cycle tour, in 2015 I went Canada West to East, (Tour du Canada) I was concerned about the same issues. I had custom cycle shoes made by Don at D2 Shoes. Yes, its a good thing that you are sitting right now (at least I hope you are!) because they were friggin expensive. He has since sold the business. Anyhow, that shoe gave me the blue print to take a standard pair of Diadora shoes to the cobbler and he altered a $50 cycle shoe for about $100. He did as nice of a job as D2 for about $700 less. But, my guy would not have done it without seeing how it was done professionally. As for only making up half the difference, or splitting the difference, I call BS. Especially when you're that far off kilter. Don had never done a shoe like mine, but the results are fabulous. The shoes are incredibly comfortable to wear off the bike too, which is why you want to make up the whole difference on the shoe, so you're not carrying a spare pair of shoes with you everywhere, or limping because you don't have a spare pair. That'll throw out your back and neck, and who wants that friggin pain? My shoes are similar to the picture from rhm earlier in the post. Sorry, I realized after I wrote all of this that this is an older post. Hopefully you have found your way!