single speed to 6 speed-- townie cruiser
08-28-20, 05:04 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
single speed to 6 speed-- townie cruiser
howdy,
i have this old Taiwan single speed step-thru that i acquired before the pandemic. it rides great...i luv it...already replaced alot of parts...now i want a few more gears.
strangley, this bike has already got a 126mm drop out spacing.
but wheel is a 110mm single speed hub with extra spacers.
it has horizontal (track style) drop outs.
i can find a cheap 6 speed wheel, 6 speed derailer, and shifter.
only problem potentially i see is the lack of braze-on for the cable. w/o brazon, the cable housing will have to be full length and zip tied to the chainstay and down tube.
Can it work without brazon for he cabel housing?
i found all the parts online...
Track drop out derailler 6 sp.
i have this old Taiwan single speed step-thru that i acquired before the pandemic. it rides great...i luv it...already replaced alot of parts...now i want a few more gears.
strangley, this bike has already got a 126mm drop out spacing.
but wheel is a 110mm single speed hub with extra spacers.
it has horizontal (track style) drop outs.
i can find a cheap 6 speed wheel, 6 speed derailer, and shifter.
only problem potentially i see is the lack of braze-on for the cable. w/o brazon, the cable housing will have to be full length and zip tied to the chainstay and down tube.
Can it work without brazon for he cabel housing?
i found all the parts online...
Track drop out derailler 6 sp.
Last edited by mtb_addict; 08-28-20 at 08:36 AM.
08-28-20, 05:50 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
heres what the derailleur would look like on a track-drop-out...
Last edited by mtb_addict; 08-28-20 at 06:13 AM.
08-28-20, 06:34 AM
#4
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Sure, you could use full length housing zip-tied in place. Use good quality lined housing and good die drawn cables to minimize friction. An option is to find some clamp-on cable stops to minimize the housing run.
08-28-20, 07:58 AM
#5
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Another option, if you are ambitious and brave, is to drill holes near each end of the down tube and run the full length cable housing internally.
08-28-20, 08:01 AM
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Another thing you didn't mention is brakes. I assume the original setup has a coaster brake, but coaster brakes and derailleurs don't work together. You'll likely have to run full length housing to the rear brake, assuming there is a hole in the brake bridge that will accept a brake.
08-28-20, 08:06 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Another thing you didn't mention is brakes. I assume the original setup has a coaster brake, but coaster brakes and derailleurs don't work together. You'll likely have to run full length housing to the rear brake, assuming there is a hole in the brake bridge that will accept a brake.
it has "band brake". it works with derailers. ( see pic in post #3...left side of hub is the brake)
Last edited by mtb_addict; 08-28-20 at 08:46 AM.
08-28-20, 08:49 AM
#8
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Clamp-on cable stops are available in a range of sizes.
08-28-20, 09:22 AM
#9
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According to Sheldon Brown's site (John Allen's work HERE), the hub needs to be threaded the same as for a freewheel (on the non-drive side) in order to mount the brake.
08-28-20, 09:38 AM
#10
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According to Sheldon Brown's site (John Allen's work HERE), the hub needs to be threaded the same as for a freewheel (on the non-drive side) in order to mount the brake.
08-28-20, 10:03 AM
#11
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08-28-20, 10:26 AM
#12
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the ones threaded on both ends, here, now, are flip flops for 2 different sizes of single speed freewheels..
& back in the 70's ~ 80's tandems used a screw on drum brake made in Japan , Arai , with lots of heat sink aluminum fins.
& back in the 70's ~ 80's tandems used a screw on drum brake made in Japan , Arai , with lots of heat sink aluminum fins.
08-28-20, 05:55 PM
#13
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not a good idea.....rust etc and frames have cracked with this approach....at least on top tube, I know i had a favorite bike (miyata 1400) die this way
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
08-29-20, 04:12 AM
#14
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this is my second set. First set's pad broke apart after 6 months. It is draggy when new. Difficult to adjust. Makes wheel remove much more difficult.
i really cannot phanthom why they are being used at all. i rather have any cheap caliper brake instead.
Last edited by mtb_addict; 08-29-20 at 04:18 AM.
08-29-20, 06:40 AM
#15
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Cheers!
Rear "roller" brake with huge, unnecessary heat sink. Weather-proof, though!
