does 3x require more shifting than 2x?
#201
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IMHO it all depends on the rider, I know guys who hardly shift at all when they ride, and others that are shifting constantly. Maybe it has something to do with individual fitness level, or maybe it is just habitual, or maybe a bit of both.
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#204
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I can understand the use of these 10 and 11 speed cassettes with Big jumps between gears on a mountain bike, But I would not want one for the road.
Even the 7 speed Freewheel on my comfort bike has closer steps. An 11- 42 10 speed has jumps from 15 - 18 - 21T. My 14 -28T 7 speed has steps of 14 -16 -18 -20 - 22T. Combined with a 28/38/ 48T chainring I have a gear for every scenario I'm likely to encounter. And 90% of the time I need only shift the back.
It's fine to have a big range, but what good is it having all those gears on the road if you can't find the right one.
Even the 7 speed Freewheel on my comfort bike has closer steps. An 11- 42 10 speed has jumps from 15 - 18 - 21T. My 14 -28T 7 speed has steps of 14 -16 -18 -20 - 22T. Combined with a 28/38/ 48T chainring I have a gear for every scenario I'm likely to encounter. And 90% of the time I need only shift the back.
It's fine to have a big range, but what good is it having all those gears on the road if you can't find the right one.
My 12-speed road bike cassette has:-
10-11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28-33
With a 48/35 crankset it has plenty of gear options without needing a third ring (which is not an option anyway).
My mountain bike has a 12-speed 10-50 cassette with obviously wider steps, but I don’t use it for road riding.
Last edited by PeteHski; 09-25-23 at 10:35 AM.
#205
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Why are you talking about mountain bike cassettes for road use?
My 12-speed road bike cassette has:-
10-11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28-33
With a 48/35 crankset it has plenty of gear options without needing a third ring (which is not an option anyway).
My mountain bike has a 12-speed 10-50 cassette with obviously wider steps, but I don’t use it for road riding.
My 12-speed road bike cassette has:-
10-11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28-33
With a 48/35 crankset it has plenty of gear options without needing a third ring (which is not an option anyway).
My mountain bike has a 12-speed 10-50 cassette with obviously wider steps, but I don’t use it for road riding.
It looks like you've got a perfect gear for every scenario. I find my 14 - 16T step to be less the ideal, but it's OK for my recreational rides. I like bigger steps for my lower gears though, like you're bike has.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 09-25-23 at 10:45 AM.
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Quite correct. My bad. I was thinking the title was 1x vs 3x.
It looks like you've got a perfect gear for every scenario. I find my 14 - 16T step to be less the ideal, but it's OK for my recreational rides. I like bigger steps for my lower gears though, like you're bike has.
It looks like you've got a perfect gear for every scenario. I find my 14 - 16T step to be less the ideal, but it's OK for my recreational rides. I like bigger steps for my lower gears though, like you're bike has.
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#207
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I don't think that's what wheelreason meant.
Same here. Adding a granny ring just gives me some bail-out gears, it doesn't affect my normal shifting.
Same here. Adding a granny ring just gives me some bail-out gears, it doesn't affect my normal shifting.
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I find the more impact on number of shifts I do is not as much double or triple but on
1) do i have integrated shifters? if so then I shift a lot more than I do with downtube friction or indexed
2) how close are my gears? I tend to shift more with tightly spaced gears than with more broadly spaced vintage gearing
and of course terrain makes a huge difference flat means not much shifting, rolling hills means more shifting
1) do i have integrated shifters? if so then I shift a lot more than I do with downtube friction or indexed
2) how close are my gears? I tend to shift more with tightly spaced gears than with more broadly spaced vintage gearing
and of course terrain makes a huge difference flat means not much shifting, rolling hills means more shifting
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On my road and gravel bikes, I'm a fan of 2x11. The road bike is a compact with a 11-34 cassette, the compact is the perfect gearing for me...the small ring for extended climbing, and the big ring is perfect for very shallow grades and the flats.
When it comes to MTBing, I'm all-in on the 1x drivetrains. I do not miss my 3x bikes with 26" wheels. My last 26'er was a 120mm FS trail bike with Sram 3x10...more gear combinations than was necessary IMO. I first got into XC racing on that bike and I hated that gearing set up in racing scenarios. I got my 100mm FS 29'er XC bike with a 1x11 not long after. The 1x11 doesn't quite have the low-end of the 3x, but that's a moot point in a racing scenario...a 1x12 solves this.
My enduro bike is a 160mm travel bike with 1x12. The low gear is definitely a granny gear. It might not have a ton of top end, but if I'm spinning out that bike, I'm on the wrong bike for that ride. On technical singletrack, it's a benefit to only have one shifter to run IMO. Shifting is quick and I can easily get into the right gear as I rapidly approach trail obstacles/features. Another benefit is that it saves room on the left side of the bars for other stuff. On my enduro bike, I've got my dropper-post lever where a front shifter would reside on older bikes. Also have a lever there that can change the rear-suspension geometry on the fly.
When it comes to MTBing, I'm all-in on the 1x drivetrains. I do not miss my 3x bikes with 26" wheels. My last 26'er was a 120mm FS trail bike with Sram 3x10...more gear combinations than was necessary IMO. I first got into XC racing on that bike and I hated that gearing set up in racing scenarios. I got my 100mm FS 29'er XC bike with a 1x11 not long after. The 1x11 doesn't quite have the low-end of the 3x, but that's a moot point in a racing scenario...a 1x12 solves this.
My enduro bike is a 160mm travel bike with 1x12. The low gear is definitely a granny gear. It might not have a ton of top end, but if I'm spinning out that bike, I'm on the wrong bike for that ride. On technical singletrack, it's a benefit to only have one shifter to run IMO. Shifting is quick and I can easily get into the right gear as I rapidly approach trail obstacles/features. Another benefit is that it saves room on the left side of the bars for other stuff. On my enduro bike, I've got my dropper-post lever where a front shifter would reside on older bikes. Also have a lever there that can change the rear-suspension geometry on the fly.
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