Cables for mechanical disc brakes?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Cables for mechanical disc brakes?
So I have TRP spyres and they've never been great. Low brake "power" and a somewhat mushy lever feel. I changed cables to compression less cables from Wiggle, the Life line brand. Now they are firmer, but there appear to be a lot of friction in the cables and thus a very firm lever squeeze is required to stop. I just about had it with these brakes.
Any recommendations. Im thinking other, better cables but what kind?
Any recommendations. Im thinking other, better cables but what kind?
#2
Senior Member
Did you change the cables or just the housing?
I'd switch to Jagwire compressionless housing and new die drawn cables.
I'd switch to Jagwire compressionless housing and new die drawn cables.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,822
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 669 Post(s)
Liked 725 Times
in
422 Posts
I've seen a couple lately with the housings way too long, with an extra bend. I removed 6" off the front and 3" off the rear of one bike recently, for a great improvement.
Do the levers match the calipers (road for road, mtn for mtn)?
Do the levers match the calipers (road for road, mtn for mtn)?
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,379
Bikes: 1982 Bianchi Sport SX, Rayleigh Tamland 1, Rans V-Rex recumbent, Fuji MTB, 80's Cannondale MTB with BBSHD ebike motor
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 667 Post(s)
Liked 529 Times
in
355 Posts
Jagwires.
But I don't know that it is your cables. The whole point of compressionless cables is to get rid of the lever flex that comes from compressing the cable housings. Brakes should go from off to on with very little movement. Just like using stainless wrapped brake hoses on a car.
sounds to me like you need some better pads. I like kool stop pads with my spyres. Make sure your rotors are clean as well. Deglaze them with a sander using fine grit garnet sandpaper.
But I don't know that it is your cables. The whole point of compressionless cables is to get rid of the lever flex that comes from compressing the cable housings. Brakes should go from off to on with very little movement. Just like using stainless wrapped brake hoses on a car.
sounds to me like you need some better pads. I like kool stop pads with my spyres. Make sure your rotors are clean as well. Deglaze them with a sander using fine grit garnet sandpaper.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The cable is as short as can be. The length in the package was barely enough. The bike has Tiagra road brifters and post mount calipers. Im not aware TRP makes any distinction between road or mtb.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Jagwires.
But I don't know that it is your cables. The whole point of compressionless cables is to get rid of the lever flex that comes from compressing the cable housings. Brakes should go from off to on with very little movement. Just like using stainless wrapped brake hoses on a car.
sounds to me like you need some better pads. I like kool stop pads with my spyres. Make sure your rotors are clean as well. Deglaze them with a sander using fine grit garnet sandpaper.
But I don't know that it is your cables. The whole point of compressionless cables is to get rid of the lever flex that comes from compressing the cable housings. Brakes should go from off to on with very little movement. Just like using stainless wrapped brake hoses on a car.
sounds to me like you need some better pads. I like kool stop pads with my spyres. Make sure your rotors are clean as well. Deglaze them with a sander using fine grit garnet sandpaper.
*I already did try other pads. TRP stock is semi metallic. I tried Shimano organic. Stopping is about the same but the organics squeal a bit less. No revolution tho.
Last edited by Racing Dan; 08-14-20 at 08:17 AM.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,379
Bikes: 1982 Bianchi Sport SX, Rayleigh Tamland 1, Rans V-Rex recumbent, Fuji MTB, 80's Cannondale MTB with BBSHD ebike motor
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 667 Post(s)
Liked 529 Times
in
355 Posts
Every bike I own gets jagwire cables. Lots of other people will say the same. I used to get a set of brake cables and housings for $21, notice they are now $27.
BTW I love my TRP Spyres. I do find if I don't ride them for some time they seem to lose braking grip.
BTW I love my TRP Spyres. I do find if I don't ride them for some time they seem to lose braking grip.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Jaqwire has several different brake cables. What kind?
#10
Banned
Die redrawn cables, take 1 more step. the finished cable is pulled through a die flattening the round wires on the outside.
this would be don off the bulk spool , before fixing the head, & hot cutting to length..
In a bike shop we get reels of cables. for repairs & individual (no individual packaging) sales .
Other part , housing , low compression uses same bundle of wires on end as indexed shift housing,
but adds a kevlar braided sheath embedded in the plastic around it to resist the spike forces. braking creates.
In the US Jagwire is carried by QBP.. thru B&M dealers & online retail.
...
this would be don off the bulk spool , before fixing the head, & hot cutting to length..
In a bike shop we get reels of cables. for repairs & individual (no individual packaging) sales .
Other part , housing , low compression uses same bundle of wires on end as indexed shift housing,
but adds a kevlar braided sheath embedded in the plastic around it to resist the spike forces. braking creates.
In the US Jagwire is carried by QBP.. thru B&M dealers & online retail.
...
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,379
Bikes: 1982 Bianchi Sport SX, Rayleigh Tamland 1, Rans V-Rex recumbent, Fuji MTB, 80's Cannondale MTB with BBSHD ebike motor
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 667 Post(s)
Liked 529 Times
in
355 Posts
This is the last set I ordered
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,258
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 712 Post(s)
Liked 793 Times
in
471 Posts
This is the stuff I use. https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Compr...s%2C158&sr=8-2
I'm sure you don't need 10 meters, but that is the correct housing. I just use Jagwire stainless cables with it.
I have the Spyres on 2 bikes and they are an impressive cable disc brake. Much better than the Shimano cable discs I have on my road bike bike and as good as the SRAM hydraulic brakes on another bike. (yeah, I have a lot of bikes)
I'm sure you don't need 10 meters, but that is the correct housing. I just use Jagwire stainless cables with it.
I have the Spyres on 2 bikes and they are an impressive cable disc brake. Much better than the Shimano cable discs I have on my road bike bike and as good as the SRAM hydraulic brakes on another bike. (yeah, I have a lot of bikes)
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. KEB-SL is the housing that is in the PRO brake kit as well.
Did you have any issues with excessive stiffness. The housing I got from wiggle is VERY stiff and and a real faff to bend in shape for under the tape mount on a drop bar.
The PRO kit comes with two pieces of ordinary brake housing for those first few inches that has a tight radius, but im not sure how to replicate the splice between the the ordinary and compressionless housing, except for buying the kit. ??
Did you have any issues with excessive stiffness. The housing I got from wiggle is VERY stiff and and a real faff to bend in shape for under the tape mount on a drop bar.
The PRO kit comes with two pieces of ordinary brake housing for those first few inches that has a tight radius, but im not sure how to replicate the splice between the the ordinary and compressionless housing, except for buying the kit. ??
#14
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,274
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6147 Post(s)
Liked 4,092 Times
in
2,325 Posts
So I have TRP spyres and they've never been great. Low brake "power" and a somewhat mushy lever feel. I changed cables to compression less cables from Wiggle, the Life line brand. Now they are firmer, but there appear to be a lot of friction in the cables and thus a very firm lever squeeze is required to stop. I just about had it with these brakes.
Any recommendations. Im thinking other, better cables but what kind?
Any recommendations. Im thinking other, better cables but what kind?
Your lever should also only move slightly before the pads engage. A mechanical disc that is set up like a rim brake...i.e. pads don’t engage until half lever throw...is always mushy and ineffective. Frankly, rim brakes have the same problem no matter what Saint Sheldon says.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
Thanks. KEB-SL is the housing that is in the PRO brake kit as well.
Did you have any issues with excessive stiffness. The housing I got from wiggle is VERY stiff and and a real faff to bend in shape for under the tape mount on a drop bar.
The PRO kit comes with two pieces of ordinary brake housing for those first few inches that has a tight radius, but im not sure how to replicate the splice between the the ordinary and compressionless housing, except for buying the kit. ??
Did you have any issues with excessive stiffness. The housing I got from wiggle is VERY stiff and and a real faff to bend in shape for under the tape mount on a drop bar.
The PRO kit comes with two pieces of ordinary brake housing for those first few inches that has a tight radius, but im not sure how to replicate the splice between the the ordinary and compressionless housing, except for buying the kit. ??
#16
Senior Member
There's a video on YouTube where the person shows how to cut down the springs so they're not as strong. I did that with mine and lubed the internals while it was apart, and I'm so much happier with it. It was just the front since I have rim brakes on the back and the difference in spring return between the front and rear was drastic before I cut down the Spyre spring, now they're much better balanced.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,258
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 712 Post(s)
Liked 793 Times
in
471 Posts
Thanks. KEB-SL is the housing that is in the PRO brake kit as well.
Did you have any issues with excessive stiffness. The housing I got from wiggle is VERY stiff and and a real faff to bend in shape for under the tape mount on a drop bar.
The PRO kit comes with two pieces of ordinary brake housing for those first few inches that has a tight radius, but im not sure how to replicate the splice between the the ordinary and compressionless housing, except for buying the kit. ??
Did you have any issues with excessive stiffness. The housing I got from wiggle is VERY stiff and and a real faff to bend in shape for under the tape mount on a drop bar.
The PRO kit comes with two pieces of ordinary brake housing for those first few inches that has a tight radius, but im not sure how to replicate the splice between the the ordinary and compressionless housing, except for buying the kit. ??
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks all. Very helpful. Ill give the pro kit a go. Modifying the spring looks interesting if somewhat involved. It is true tho, the spring is very stiff, for no apparent reason. TRP should rethink their strategy. Mandating proper compression free housing at the OEM level and a softer spring would go a long way saving the end user from a lot of frustration.
#19
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,274
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4251 Post(s)
Liked 3,864 Times
in
2,578 Posts
I would go with Jagwire Elite Link kit and update the stock pads (KooStop or SwissStop) and possibly rotor especially if it is the stock TRP rotor. That will give you better braking. The Pro Kit is also fine with the same upgrades but the Elite Link is probably your best as those "beads" (as my co-worker and friend calls them) won't compress and the inner liner is slick and the cable is super polished and smooth so it will amp up the brake performance.
Yeah TRP should mandate better stuff but then again all the manufacturers should stop being so cheap and use better parts especially in the case of cables and housing for Fox (with Kashima coating) sake.
Yeah TRP should mandate better stuff but then again all the manufacturers should stop being so cheap and use better parts especially in the case of cables and housing for Fox (with Kashima coating) sake.
#20
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,274
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6147 Post(s)
Liked 4,092 Times
in
2,325 Posts
Thanks all. Very helpful. Ill give the pro kit a go. Modifying the spring looks interesting if somewhat involved. It is true tho, the spring is very stiff, for no apparent reason. TRP should rethink their strategy. Mandating proper compression free housing at the OEM level and a softer spring would go a long way saving the end user from a lot of frustration.
It’s not the manufacturer being cheap, it’s the consumer. Paul Klampers are better brakes than TRP but I doubt most people would pay twice as much for them. I have 3 of them (1 pair on a bike and one bike with a disc front). Great brakes but I can’t really say they work 2 times better than the TRPs I have.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#21
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,274
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4251 Post(s)
Liked 3,864 Times
in
2,578 Posts
It’s not the manufacturer being cheap, it’s the consumer. Paul Klampers are better brakes than TRP but I doubt most people would pay twice as much for them. I have 3 of them (1 pair on a bike and one bike with a disc front). Great brakes but I can’t really say they work 2 times better than the TRPs I have.
I doubt they would pay twice as much and I doubt Paul could do such massive OEM orders without compromising something (not that he is incapable of greatness and expansion) but certainly the OEMs could upgrade the cables and housing without too much cost increase.
#22
Banned
Pac rim ships most bikes you buy, to US west coast ports..the components are collected from there ans assembled there
Buy a Bike Built in Europe and you might get more EU/UK components if your're willing to spend up..
In the up charge up grade; get machined aluminum bead and barrel segmented housing.. low compression and flexible..
.....
Buy a Bike Built in Europe and you might get more EU/UK components if your're willing to spend up..
In the up charge up grade; get machined aluminum bead and barrel segmented housing.. low compression and flexible..
.....
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-16-20 at 09:21 PM.