BigFred's Proportional Crank Ghetto Build,
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
BigFred's Proportional Crank Ghetto Build,
Prepare yourselves my Freddly friends. This thread isn't going to be over quickly. Prepare for much hand wringing, rueing over decissions, flip flopping of opinion and general faffing like a teen girl before prom.
I've wondered about proportional cranks and their supposed advantages for years. But, could never quite justify the cost of a custom frame and cranks for an experiment and wasn't going to mount 200's to stock frame and risk going down from pedal strike. Yes, I mounted a 20mm foam block to the bottom of my pedal and proceeded to tear it off pretty quickly.
So, when a frame with appropriately high BB showed up on flee-bay and no one bought it, eventually it's designer and owner dropped the price to the point that I couldn't help myself. I placed the opening bid and none of the rest of you bid against me.
Subsequently, this showed up on my door step yesterday:
This project is competely off budget. There are a couple approaches I can take:
A. The "no budget" ghetto, recycled components, what I can find as cheap as possible, get it rolling now approach. I would prefer to keep my existing Cannondale whole, but, it could be canabalized if need be.
B. Build it how I want it. As funds are limited, this could take quite a while for me to acquire all the neccessary components.
Either way, the two things I must buy are: the cranks and a fork.
Oh, and the frame weighs 1480grms plus 23grms for the seat clamp.
I've wondered about proportional cranks and their supposed advantages for years. But, could never quite justify the cost of a custom frame and cranks for an experiment and wasn't going to mount 200's to stock frame and risk going down from pedal strike. Yes, I mounted a 20mm foam block to the bottom of my pedal and proceeded to tear it off pretty quickly.
So, when a frame with appropriately high BB showed up on flee-bay and no one bought it, eventually it's designer and owner dropped the price to the point that I couldn't help myself. I placed the opening bid and none of the rest of you bid against me.
Subsequently, this showed up on my door step yesterday:
This project is competely off budget. There are a couple approaches I can take:
A. The "no budget" ghetto, recycled components, what I can find as cheap as possible, get it rolling now approach. I would prefer to keep my existing Cannondale whole, but, it could be canabalized if need be.
B. Build it how I want it. As funds are limited, this could take quite a while for me to acquire all the neccessary components.
Either way, the two things I must buy are: the cranks and a fork.
Oh, and the frame weighs 1480grms plus 23grms for the seat clamp.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Last edited by bigfred; 04-15-13 at 12:04 AM.
#2
Just Plain Slow
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 6,026
Bikes: Lynskey R230
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 297 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Sounds like a fun journey. Thanks for taking us all along.
To embed larger pix, host them on a hosting site. I use Photobucket. Upload them there, then paste the [img] tags to your post. Viola! Large pix!
To embed larger pix, host them on a hosting site. I use Photobucket. Upload them there, then paste the [img] tags to your post. Viola! Large pix!
#3
SuperGimp
What size cranks you gonna get for your frankenproject there, Edward Longshanks?
I think even at my low 6'2" altitude Zinn seems to think I need 197 cranks.
Nice going PJ - now he's going to post more self photos wearing skin tight cycling gear. At least with the thumbnails we stood a chance, now we're doomed.
I think even at my low 6'2" altitude Zinn seems to think I need 197 cranks.
Nice going PJ - now he's going to post more self photos wearing skin tight cycling gear. At least with the thumbnails we stood a chance, now we're doomed.
#4
Banned.
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Just to inject a controversial note, I'm unconvinced about long cranks. It sounds logical until one thinks about the effects of gearing. You want to go further with each rotation of the pedals, just change up a gear. Once you have taken that into account, the only thing long cranks change is the angle at which your hips and knees have to bend, and as far as I can see it's an advantage to avoid increasing that angle, because most power will be generated when it is not too acute.
I think bicycling mag. did some study into this a while back, and found that power outputs tended to decline once crank length went over 180 or so. This is interesting...
I think bicycling mag. did some study into this a while back, and found that power outputs tended to decline once crank length went over 180 or so. This is interesting...
Last edited by chasm54; 04-11-13 at 05:29 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So, to what degree is the board willing to underwrite this experiment in an attempt to convince me not to proceed with the Bib Short Comparison?
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just to inject a controversial note, I'm unconvinced about long cranks. It sounds logical until one thinks about the effects of gearing. You want to go further with each rotation of the pedals, just change up a gear. Once you have taken that into account, the only thing long cranks change is the angle at which your hips and knees have to bend, and as far as I can see it's an advantage to avoid increasing that angle, because most power will be generated when it is not too acute.
I think bicycling mag. did some study into this a while back, and found that power outputs tended to decline once crank length went over 180 or so. This is interesting...
I think bicycling mag. did some study into this a while back, and found that power outputs tended to decline once crank length went over 180 or so. This is interesting...
I just had the very discussion you are beginning about gearing and leverage on a group ride on Tuesday. While I'm no great engineer, I would like to think that I have a reasonable grasp of the principles involved. The length of the lever arm, radius of the chain ring used and corresponding cog all factor into the equation as well as individual morphology.
There's little question that arm length plays some part in overall efficiency. The question is, "What is the ideal arm length for 'me' in the manner that I intend to use them?" I certainly experienced an improvement in performance years ago when I moved to 180mm cranks. We'll see if that is repeated with a move to 200mm. I have some real trepidation about making such a big adjustment. Moving my saddle 5mm can take a couple of weeks to adjust to. Hence, my concern with keeping my current ride intact, so I can switch back and forth if the new range of motion requires some time to adjust to.
So far though, most of the riders who have actually tried proportional cranks seem to be pleased with them. I don't recall hearing about any long legged riders trying them and not liking them.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Forks,
Full carbon steerer? Or, carbon blades with aluminum steerer?
NOS AlphaQ CS-20, 300mm carbon steerer, w/100m epoxy in sleeve, 400 grams, $265ZNZD
Easton EC90 SL curved, 300mm carbon steerer, 350 grams, 43mm rake, $310NZD
Easton EC70 curved, 300mm aluminum steer, 530 grams, 43mm rake, $180NZD
The glue in sleeve for the discontinued AlphaQ concerns me. The bottom of it would be awfully close to the upper bearing.
My aluminum steerered Cannondale has more than a decade on it without issue. I really don't want to be worrying about fork integrity as I plummet down some pass descent. Any reason I shouldn't opt for the EC90 SL? It's not the SLX:-) I'll be fine! Right?
NOS AlphaQ CS-20, 300mm carbon steerer, w/100m epoxy in sleeve, 400 grams, $265ZNZD
Easton EC90 SL curved, 300mm carbon steerer, 350 grams, 43mm rake, $310NZD
Easton EC70 curved, 300mm aluminum steer, 530 grams, 43mm rake, $180NZD
The glue in sleeve for the discontinued AlphaQ concerns me. The bottom of it would be awfully close to the upper bearing.
My aluminum steerered Cannondale has more than a decade on it without issue. I really don't want to be worrying about fork integrity as I plummet down some pass descent. Any reason I shouldn't opt for the EC90 SL? It's not the SLX:-) I'll be fine! Right?
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Naming Rights,
This project needs a name.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 748
Bikes: I don't even
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
77 Posts
Full carbon steerer? Or, carbon blades with aluminum steerer?
NOS AlphaQ CS-20, 300mm carbon steerer, w/100m epoxy in sleeve, 400 grams, $265ZNZD
Easton EC90 SL curved, 300mm carbon steerer, 350 grams, 43mm rake, $310NZD
Easton EC70 curved, 300mm aluminum steer, 530 grams, 43mm rake, $180NZD
The glue in sleeve for the discontinued AlphaQ concerns me. The bottom of it would be awfully close to the upper bearing.
My aluminum steerered Cannondale has more than a decade on it without issue. I really don't want to be worrying about fork integrity as I plummet down some pass descent. Any reason I shouldn't opt for the EC90 SL? It's not the SLX:-) I'll be fine! Right?
NOS AlphaQ CS-20, 300mm carbon steerer, w/100m epoxy in sleeve, 400 grams, $265ZNZD
Easton EC90 SL curved, 300mm carbon steerer, 350 grams, 43mm rake, $310NZD
Easton EC70 curved, 300mm aluminum steer, 530 grams, 43mm rake, $180NZD
The glue in sleeve for the discontinued AlphaQ concerns me. The bottom of it would be awfully close to the upper bearing.
My aluminum steerered Cannondale has more than a decade on it without issue. I really don't want to be worrying about fork integrity as I plummet down some pass descent. Any reason I shouldn't opt for the EC90 SL? It's not the SLX:-) I'll be fine! Right?
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 748
Bikes: I don't even
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
77 Posts
I vote cheapest fork you can find on craigslist. and somewhat ghetto built. I'm a HUGE fan of shimano 9 speed. 6500 stuff can be found cheap
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
6500? That's what I've been on for 13 years! I'm at least trying to upgrade to 10spd. Daddy wants a 16tooth cog between that 15 and 17. 6600 at the minimum. Although, I would like to try SRAM. We'll see what materializes between now and when I've got both forks and cranks in hand.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
fwiw I've used the ec70 that came with my bmc streetfire ssx frameset, and it flexed enough to make the brakes rub while climbing out of saddle (at 235lbs). not a fan. However, I've put thousands of miles on my secondhand cannondale aluminum steerer fork and love it!
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#13
Senior Member
If I was buying a separate fork again, I'd look at Columbus and an aluminium steerer. I had a Tusk fork on my first track frame and it was able to cope with the abuse of standing starts at the track. I upgraded to a Pro Lite fork after that and it was mega stiff, but heavy to boot. I think when you get long carbon steerers on carbon road forks, they get a little flexy. Also, from what I've seen, road forks have a thinner wall than the track stuff I've come across that allows for the flex. I was going to buy a Columbus to put on my old track frame that I'm now turning into a road fixie, but I came across a brand spanker 3T fork that was collecting dust in the corner of my LBS. He let it go for $50. The fork had only been mounted on a bike and the buyer had his own so changed it out before the bike went out the door.
As for crank length, I am of mixed opinion. From chatter getting about the finnicky track circles, the prevailing factor seems to be the speed at which your feet move. If there's a shorter crank, your feet can move at a faster rpm, but be moving at the same speed as someone who is on longer cranks but a slower rpm. There has been no real determination that longer or shorter cranks work better, just the fact that shorter cranks allow you to spin while longer allow you to grind. The difference in crank length is taken up by the gearing used. For the record, I use 180mm on my road bike, and 175mm on the track bike.
As for crank length, I am of mixed opinion. From chatter getting about the finnicky track circles, the prevailing factor seems to be the speed at which your feet move. If there's a shorter crank, your feet can move at a faster rpm, but be moving at the same speed as someone who is on longer cranks but a slower rpm. There has been no real determination that longer or shorter cranks work better, just the fact that shorter cranks allow you to spin while longer allow you to grind. The difference in crank length is taken up by the gearing used. For the record, I use 180mm on my road bike, and 175mm on the track bike.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Personally, I'm trying to escape the current situation of the Mrs. having 10spd cassettes on her wheels, me having 9spd and us forever changing cassettes on the spare sets. So, funds allowing, I'm very inclined to shop for 10spd stuff in either Shimano or SRAM flavours.
But, we're getting ahead of ourselves. First, the frame needs forks and cranks.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 511
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Here's an example of the type I am talking about. You can see that this plug has the compression device inside a sleeve that acts as a reinforcement for the steerer much like the glue in plug. Here's another. Though this one looks like a standard compression you can see it is much longer so it will support the steerer for the full height of the stem.
My point is, don't let the glue in plug be a deciding factor if thats the fork that you really want.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You're only concern here is that the glue in plug is also sometimes designed to act as a reinforcement for the steerer, but if you look around you can find a compression one that will do the same thing.
Here's an example of the type I am talking about. You can see that this plug has the compression device inside a sleeve that acts as a reinforcement for the steerer much like the glue in plug. Here's another. Though this one looks like a standard compression you can see it is much longer so it will support the steerer for the full height of the stem.
My point is, don't let the glue in plug be a deciding factor if thats the fork that you really want.
Here's an example of the type I am talking about. You can see that this plug has the compression device inside a sleeve that acts as a reinforcement for the steerer much like the glue in plug. Here's another. Though this one looks like a standard compression you can see it is much longer so it will support the steerer for the full height of the stem.
My point is, don't let the glue in plug be a deciding factor if thats the fork that you really want.
Thanks for the links. I hadn't seen such long expanders. My current thought is that if I end up with the fork and the reinforcing sleeve is a standard diameter, I'll acquire and install a full length sleeve. And, perhaps use one of those long expanders.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Project 42,
Never mind the concrete components for a moment and turning to the spiritual side of this undertaking.
Mrs. Fred has been lobbying to call it "Timmay" ala South Park for some unknown reason.
I was trying to come up with a name that somehow related to Archimedes to no avail.
But, "Bierwagen" seems appropriate for the obvious reason. The build of which is of course "Project 42":-)
Mrs. Fred has been lobbying to call it "Timmay" ala South Park for some unknown reason.
I was trying to come up with a name that somehow related to Archimedes to no avail.
But, "Bierwagen" seems appropriate for the obvious reason. The build of which is of course "Project 42":-)
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 124
Bikes: Custom Zinn Dolomite Ti
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If I was 100% convinced I would have shelled out for a custom frame and cranks years ago. There's a reason I'm referring to this as an "experiment". A personal one at that. Everyone else just gets to come along for the ride. To further confuse issues, the change in arm length will be influenced by a change in gearing at the same time. I'm currently on 130bcd 53/39 - 12/25 gearing. The new cranks will be 110bcd with either 52/36 or 50/34 rings and either my current 12/25 9spd, 12/27 10spd or 11/2810spd respectively.
I just had the very discussion you are beginning about gearing and leverage on a group ride on Tuesday. While I'm no great engineer, I would like to think that I have a reasonable grasp of the principles involved. The length of the lever arm, radius of the chain ring used and corresponding cog all factor into the equation as well as individual morphology.
There's little question that arm length plays some part in overall efficiency. The question is, "What is the ideal arm length for 'me' in the manner that I intend to use them?" I certainly experienced an improvement in performance years ago when I moved to 180mm cranks. We'll see if that is repeated with a move to 200mm. I have some real trepidation about making such a big adjustment. Moving my saddle 5mm can take a couple of weeks to adjust to. Hence, my concern with keeping my current ride intact, so I can switch back and forth if the new range of motion requires some time to adjust to.
So far though, most of the riders who have actually tried proportional cranks seem to be pleased with them. I don't recall hearing about any long legged riders trying them and not liking them.
I just had the very discussion you are beginning about gearing and leverage on a group ride on Tuesday. While I'm no great engineer, I would like to think that I have a reasonable grasp of the principles involved. The length of the lever arm, radius of the chain ring used and corresponding cog all factor into the equation as well as individual morphology.
There's little question that arm length plays some part in overall efficiency. The question is, "What is the ideal arm length for 'me' in the manner that I intend to use them?" I certainly experienced an improvement in performance years ago when I moved to 180mm cranks. We'll see if that is repeated with a move to 200mm. I have some real trepidation about making such a big adjustment. Moving my saddle 5mm can take a couple of weeks to adjust to. Hence, my concern with keeping my current ride intact, so I can switch back and forth if the new range of motion requires some time to adjust to.
So far though, most of the riders who have actually tried proportional cranks seem to be pleased with them. I don't recall hearing about any long legged riders trying them and not liking them.
Proportional length cranks just makes sense to my mind - smaller circles if you ars smaller - larger circles if you are larger - but proportionally - the same sized circles - same angles...
But saying that - was also a leap of faith when I bought mine. It's hard to go against the accepted norms... Plenty of people looked at me sideways when I explained the reasoning.... So I was very nervous about forking out all this money on a good sounding idea
But I can't be happier.. Climb better, handle accellerations in races better (jumped 2 racing categories within weeks of getting the bike), and just feel way more comfortable and happy on the bike.
I did find I needed to got to an 11 tooth cog on the cassette - as you do get on top of gears quicker... Started off on a 12 and found I was running out of gears quickly on downhills and at the sharp end of races... But a quick swap to an 11 fixed the problem and have more than enough gearing now. (I also found I got better at spinning after having the long cranks for a while)
It is an adjustment - and will feel very weird to start with - but in saying that - I was immediately faster on the long cranks.
I have a tandem (a Hase Pino) that I ride with my disabled son and that has 'standard' 175mm cranks. I don't have a problem switching from bike to bike - although going from one to the other - does feel weird... (I wish the Pino had longer cranks - big heavy bike and my son doesn't contribute much yet )
I could go on and on
I'm really excited to see how this will turn out for you..
Cheers
Adrian.
Last edited by Sassonian; 04-14-13 at 03:57 AM.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
But I can't be happier.. Climb better, handle accellerations in races better (jumped 2 racing categories within weeks of getting the bike), and just feel way more comfortable and happy on the bike.
I did find I needed to got to an 11 tooth cog on the cassette - as you do get on top of gears quicker... Started off on a 12 and found I was running out of gears quickly on downhills and at the sharp end of races... But a quick swap to an 11 fixed the problem and have more than enough gearing now. (I also found I got better at spinning after having the long cranks for a while)
.
But saying that - was also a leap of faith when I bought mine. It's hard to go against the accepted norms... Plenty of people looked at me sideways when I explained the reasoning.... So I was very nervous about forking out all this money on a good sounding idea
But I can't be happier.. Climb better, handle accellerations in races better (jumped 2 racing categories within weeks of getting the bike), and just feel way more comfortable and happy on the bike.
I did find I needed to got to an 11 tooth cog on the cassette - as you do get on top of gears quicker... Started off on a 12 and found I was running out of gears quickly on downhills and at the sharp end of races... But a quick swap to an 11 fixed the problem and have more than enough gearing now. (I also found I got better at spinning after having the long cranks for a while)
It is an adjustment - and will feel very weird to start with - but in saying that - I was immediately faster on the long cranks.
I'm really excited to see how this will turn out for you..
Cheers
Adrian.
I'm sure there's going to be an adaptation period. That's largely responsible for my desire to keep my current bike in a ridable state. I would like to be able to swap back and forth if I desire.
Me too mate. Me too.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 124
Bikes: Custom Zinn Dolomite Ti
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What gearing are you using? I'm going to be trading my traditional 130bcd 39/53 X 12/25 for something of the compact or mid-compact variety. Initially I was thinking that mid-compact 36/52 X 12/27 would be enouth additional low range in combination with the longer cranks. Now I find myself considering a full compact 34/50 X 11/28 set. I know cassettes and chainrings can be changed, but, would like to get it right the first .
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
BierWagen, Project 42 a Longshanks Produciton, Update: Cranks!
This is a pretty small niche and I wish I could support all those who are servicing it. Alas, I can not and must pick one set of cranks to start with.
The players that I'm aware of so far are: Lennard Zinn , High Sierra , Lightning and DaVinci. To the best of my knowledge neither Bullseye nor Heiko Brechtel are currently manufacturing appropriate options.
I've spoken or e-mailed with several owners of the square taper modular cranks manufactured by High Sierra and also sold by Zinn. The common theme has been that it is not a particularly stiff option. Some of them don't weigh nearly as much as me. So, I'm eliminating them from further consideration.
I'm also eliminating the DaVinci cranks. While I haven't spoke directly to anyone using them, they look similiar in basic design to the aforementioned and I would like to make a move toward a more modern bottom bracket system than square tapered spindles.
The Contenders are:
Lightning (Heavy Duty 130kg max version), sub 600 grams incl. bb & rings, $680usd + rings
High Sierra Integrated Aluminum, upper 800 grams or more incl bb plus rings, $600usd + rings
Zinntegrated Aluminum, 893 grams incl. bb plus rings $795usd + rings
Zinn/KHS/Andel (from the KHS747), weight not yet known, incl. bb & 34/50 rings $409usd incl. rings
My dream bike would be a Parlee with the Lightnings (they utilize the same FACT spider attachment as Specialized and would take an SRM spider), Sram Red, etc.
I keep reminding myself that Bierwagen is not my dream bike, despite the fact that Mrs. Fred would endorse the purchase of the Lightnings. (I love her!)
I use my bikes as "tools" not "jewels" and this one will be no different. It a training tool and an experimental one at that. But, at the point I add some 36/52 mid-compact rings to the KHS/Andel cranks they're going to be closer to $550usd. Unless I find some used 36/52's.
So,
First choice. KHS/Andel's from Zinn and some used 36/52 rings.
Second choice. Given the realative costs, the Lightnings!
Would anyone approach it any differently? Why?
The players that I'm aware of so far are: Lennard Zinn , High Sierra , Lightning and DaVinci. To the best of my knowledge neither Bullseye nor Heiko Brechtel are currently manufacturing appropriate options.
I've spoken or e-mailed with several owners of the square taper modular cranks manufactured by High Sierra and also sold by Zinn. The common theme has been that it is not a particularly stiff option. Some of them don't weigh nearly as much as me. So, I'm eliminating them from further consideration.
I'm also eliminating the DaVinci cranks. While I haven't spoke directly to anyone using them, they look similiar in basic design to the aforementioned and I would like to make a move toward a more modern bottom bracket system than square tapered spindles.
The Contenders are:
Lightning (Heavy Duty 130kg max version), sub 600 grams incl. bb & rings, $680usd + rings
High Sierra Integrated Aluminum, upper 800 grams or more incl bb plus rings, $600usd + rings
Zinntegrated Aluminum, 893 grams incl. bb plus rings $795usd + rings
Zinn/KHS/Andel (from the KHS747), weight not yet known, incl. bb & 34/50 rings $409usd incl. rings
My dream bike would be a Parlee with the Lightnings (they utilize the same FACT spider attachment as Specialized and would take an SRM spider), Sram Red, etc.
I keep reminding myself that Bierwagen is not my dream bike, despite the fact that Mrs. Fred would endorse the purchase of the Lightnings. (I love her!)
I use my bikes as "tools" not "jewels" and this one will be no different. It a training tool and an experimental one at that. But, at the point I add some 36/52 mid-compact rings to the KHS/Andel cranks they're going to be closer to $550usd. Unless I find some used 36/52's.
So,
First choice. KHS/Andel's from Zinn and some used 36/52 rings.
Second choice. Given the realative costs, the Lightnings!
Would anyone approach it any differently? Why?
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.