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Wheel upgrade

Old 06-22-12, 09:42 PM
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Edmo71
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Wheel upgrade

I have recently bought an Avanti Giro 1 with Alex AKX R1 wheels, I'm thinking of upgrading the wheels as I've read they are the weak link on this bike?

Any suggestions of lighter, better wheels for me? I ride approx 100-150 km per week, mostly daily commute plus longer weekend ride. Oh and on a budget please.
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Old 06-22-12, 10:18 PM
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What's your budget, & what type of riding do you normaly do during the week?
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Old 06-22-12, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Edmo71
Oh and on a budget please.
Then just ride the wheels you have.
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Old 06-22-12, 10:22 PM
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Edmo71
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Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder
What's your budget, & what type of riding do you normaly do during the week?
Budget definitely under $500 and during the week it's on road commute about 10km each way.
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Old 06-22-12, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TrojanHorse
Then just ride the wheels you have.
Really meant didn't want suggestions of '000's of dollars! But yes I could ride the wheels I have and I will but just wanted some suggestions of possible upgrades..
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Old 06-22-12, 10:27 PM
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Boyd

https://www.boydcycling.com/alloy-wheels/
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Old 06-22-12, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike F
Specifically the Vitesse.
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Old 06-22-12, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FPSDavid
Specifically the Vitesse.
Thanks! Is this upgrade worth the money? Will I notice the difference etc.
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Old 06-23-12, 12:40 AM
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Do you want rims for climbing,sprinting,training,etc?
Certain rims are better in certain areas, some can do it all @ a weight penalty.
Is there a certain reason why you dislike your current wheelset?
The more info you give us about your situation, the more we can try help.
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Old 06-23-12, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder
Do you want rims for climbing,sprinting,training,etc?
Certain rims are better in certain areas, some can do it all @ a weight penalty.
Is there a certain reason why you dislike your current wheelset?
The more info you give us about your situation, the more we can try help.
Not sprinting but really just want to improve my bike. Reading around, my wheels seem to be heavy and probably the weakest part of my bike, which I got cheap as part of a stocktake sale. $800.
https://www.avantibikes.com/endurance-road/2011-giro-1

I've added shimano pd r540 pedals already.

I am keen to up my km's and complete some longer rides, 100km+

Last edited by Edmo71; 06-23-12 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 06-23-12, 01:29 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Edmo71
Not sprinting but really just want to improve my bike. Reading around, my wheels seem to be heavy and probably the weakest part of my bike, which I got cheap as part of a stocktake sale. $800.
https://www.avantibikes.com/endurance-road/2011-giro-1

I've added shimano pd r540 pedals already.

I am keen to up my km's and complete some longer rides, 100km+
The cheapest, most effective way to up your KM's, & complete longer rides is to improve your fitness.
If you have no fitness/stamina you're not going anywhere far, or very fast,no matter how light your bike or rims are.
If your wheels aren't broken, don't waste money on a new set.
Invest in parts that make your bike/ride more comfortable, this comes into account on longer rides.

I regularly drop a lot of people on my "Tank" of a CX bike during group rides, & fly up hills too.(Almost strictly on my biggest chainring)
My bike is well over 23 lbs(loaded), but it doesn't stop me from climbing hill fast, or going on longer rides.
I figure all this training on my "Tank" will only prepare me for better things once my road bike is completed.
1 more week & my new baby will be done, then I'll start on a CF build.

If your keen on buying a new wheelset, I'll recommend a few later.
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Old 06-23-12, 04:45 AM
  #12  
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2012 Shimano Ultegra (tubeless) can be had for $400-ish brand new. Excellent wheels.
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Old 06-23-12, 05:38 AM
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Not a fan of tubeless. Marketing BS.

Company rep 1: How can we take a simple and easily maintainable technology, and change it in a way that will make it extremely difficult to self-service on the road, with no support?

Company rep 2: I've got it! Let's use tubeless tires, like automobiles do! But unlike autos, we'll still want to keep the casing light, so that cyclists will want to ride the tires! This will also pin them to factory wheels!

Company rep 1: Brilliant!
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Old 06-23-12, 05:53 AM
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I've never understood tubeless for road applications either. Great for mountain biking or cross, but it seems like combining the worst aspects of tubies and clinchers.

OP - IMO, riding the wheels you have and saving your money for something awesome next season would probably be your best bet. If you're dead set on something now, give november a look. I haven't ridden their alloy wheels, but I love my carbon clinchers and they've got the best customer service I've ever seen.
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Old 06-23-12, 07:15 AM
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I've got a set of Alex wheels (I don't know the model off the top of my head) on my single speed bike and while I could get something lighter these things are as true as the day I got them. I've been through several chains and rear cogs and a chainring so I know they have some distance on them.
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Old 06-23-12, 07:33 AM
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Have you guys actually used road tubeless setups? Judging by you comments I would say no. You can run any wheel tubeless if you want.


"I've never understood tubeless for road applications either. Great for mountain biking or cross, but it seems like combining the worst aspects of tubies and clinchers."

Lets see you get the improved supple ride of tubulars without the hassle of glue or the expense. If you do flat beyond what the sealant can stop then you can remove the tire and add a tube just like a clincher. Tubeless also lets you run low psi to improve grip and handling and also wet weather grip. There is no risk of pinch flat like a normal clincher since there is no tube.
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Old 06-23-12, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
Have you guys actually used road tubeless setups? Judging by you comments I would say no. You can run any wheel tubeless if you want.


"I've never understood tubeless for road applications either. Great for mountain biking or cross, but it seems like combining the worst aspects of tubies and clinchers."

Lets see you get the improved supple ride of tubulars without the hassle of glue or the expense. If you do flat beyond what the sealant can stop then you can remove the tire and add a tube just like a clincher. Tubeless also lets you run low psi to improve grip and handling and also wet weather grip. There is no risk of pinch flat like a normal clincher since there is no tube.

I've never ran tubeless but this is what made me think of trying them, I read this about a wheelset I was looking @ last night.
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Old 06-23-12, 02:54 PM
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There is not enough air volume in a cross tire to make tubeless a viable option. The pressures cross tires run at are too low to support the small air volume without burping. I watched a few riders come limping into the pits carrying their bikes with sealant dripping everywhere just because they thought tubeless was good.

A tubular - if it flats - you can ride into the pits. Tubulars are the answer to cross. Tubeless is not.

People seem to love tubeless on mtb. Good for them. Larger tire volume and higher pressures than cross. Road tubeless? Silly. But will eventually be where the market goes. The available tires suck right now though and not many good tired makers seem too interested in trying to make a good one. Will most likely gain traction at the same time as road disc.
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Old 06-23-12, 03:04 PM
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This topic needs its own forum, or at worst, a sticky.
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Old 06-23-12, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
People seem to love tubeless on mtb. Good for them. Larger tire volume and higher pressures than cross. Road tubeless? Silly. But will eventually be where the market goes. The available tires suck right now though and not many good tired makers seem too interested in trying to make a good one. Will most likely gain traction at the same time as road disc.
Not really pertinent to the original topic, but I was curious if this is true? I have no idea because I know nothing about cyclocross except the bunnyhop fail videos are sometimes fun to watch. I run my MTB (tubed) tires at 28/25 psi rear/front and have yet to pinch flat (though I've crashed quite spectacularly). Are pressures on cross tires actually lower than MTB because that is amazing...
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Old 06-23-12, 09:46 PM
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I run my cross tires @ 65-75 psi.(clinchers)
When I run with my gatorskins, or armadillos I have them @ 100 psi.
Tubulars are popular in CX, many racers run tubulars.

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Old 06-24-12, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Road tubeless? Silly.
Try riding in the Phoenix area for a few months, and then you may think differently.

I work at a shop in Phoenix, and nearly every flat tire i see has a thorn that caused it. I'm not sold on the set-up because of the available tubeless tires(I run Gatorskins) but maybe one day the selection will improve.
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Old 06-24-12, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht
I'm not sold on the set-up because of the available tubeless tires(I run Gatorskins) but maybe one day the selection will improve.
Hutchinson is launching 3 new tubeless tires and Schwalbe is realeasing the Ultremo ZX tubeless this fall. Hopefully next year we get some more. The hutchinson intensive is going to be 28c.
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Old 06-24-12, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by milkbaby
Not really pertinent to the original topic, but I was curious if this is true? I have no idea because I know nothing about cyclocross except the bunnyhop fail videos are sometimes fun to watch. I run my MTB (tubed) tires at 28/25 psi rear/front and have yet to pinch flat (though I've crashed quite spectacularly). Are pressures on cross tires actually lower than MTB because that is amazing...
Yes. Most racing is done between 20-30 psi. Ryan Trebon ran 24 at nationals. I know because his friend, the rider I was running pit for in the women's elite race , that "that's the pressure today".

Personally...I am fat so I have to run about 30-32 most of the time.
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Old 06-24-12, 10:11 AM
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Also Katie Compton came through the pit and yelled to drop the pressure to 20 or 22. I can't remember. It was back in January.
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