Rear Brake Adjustment
03-29-18, 07:07 PM
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Rear Brake Adjustment
Hi everyone,
My rear brakes are squishy & I'd like to fix this. They also tend to pull tighter one side than the other, something else I'd like to fix. I have a Surly LHT with a rear fender, Tubus Logo rack, usually have panniers on the rack, and often ride with a knapsack bungeed to the rack. The presence of the knapsack and the fenders seems to complicate adjusting the rear brakes. I attached a picture. (I would've added more but forum wouldn't let me upload them.) Any recommendations?
My rear brakes are squishy & I'd like to fix this. They also tend to pull tighter one side than the other, something else I'd like to fix. I have a Surly LHT with a rear fender, Tubus Logo rack, usually have panniers on the rack, and often ride with a knapsack bungeed to the rack. The presence of the knapsack and the fenders seems to complicate adjusting the rear brakes. I attached a picture. (I would've added more but forum wouldn't let me upload them.) Any recommendations?
03-29-18, 07:58 PM
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Regarding the pictures, the file might be too large.
If it's tighter on one side you can use the adjustment screws on the bosses to loosen/tighten the spring on one side or the other to center it.
Squishy brake could mean that you don't have enough leverage. See Sheldon Brown to make adjustment.
If it's tighter on one side you can use the adjustment screws on the bosses to loosen/tighten the spring on one side or the other to center it.
Squishy brake could mean that you don't have enough leverage. See Sheldon Brown to make adjustment.
03-30-18, 12:27 AM
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One side making contact earlier is mainly an aesthetic dilemma. It’ll only take a tiny amount of pressure to make the pads self-centering in use.
But there’s usually a spring tension adjustment screw on one or both brake arms. Turn the slow side in or the fast side out a little.
If you bottom out on the adjustment, pull an arm off and remount the spring’s anchor pin in a different hole at the base of the brake boss.
Squishy lever feel can come from a couple of places.
Poor cabling, poor cabling run can soak up a fair bit of movement before the cable sheath is compressed enough to transfer brake force.
It can also come from mismatched leverage.
To differentiate between the two, compare front & rear setup.
If - assuming same brakes & lever - the straddle cable looks the same front & rear, but only rear feels squishy, then I’d start with the cabling.
But there’s usually a spring tension adjustment screw on one or both brake arms. Turn the slow side in or the fast side out a little.
If you bottom out on the adjustment, pull an arm off and remount the spring’s anchor pin in a different hole at the base of the brake boss.
Squishy lever feel can come from a couple of places.
Poor cabling, poor cabling run can soak up a fair bit of movement before the cable sheath is compressed enough to transfer brake force.
It can also come from mismatched leverage.
To differentiate between the two, compare front & rear setup.
If - assuming same brakes & lever - the straddle cable looks the same front & rear, but only rear feels squishy, then I’d start with the cabling.
03-30-18, 02:43 AM
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It is difficult to tell from the angle of the picture. It appears the brake pad(s) may be worn down, the one looks pretty thin.
Is that groove in the brake track a feature of that model of rim?
Is that groove in the brake track a feature of that model of rim?
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03-30-18, 04:04 AM
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The first thing you with any brake problem is replace the pads - the problem doesn't always go away but it does often enough to make it worth it plus you have the benefit of new brake pads. They're cheap enough so worth a try.
I'd be looking at cables next. Assuming there aren't any kinks in the set up, fit new inners - again, cheap and not a bad idea
And, in the process of all this, make sure they're adjusted properly.
04-01-18, 03:34 PM
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The first thing you with any brake problem is replace the pads - the problem doesn't always go away but it does often enough to make it worth it plus you have the benefit of new brake pads. They're cheap enough so worth a try.
I'd be looking at cables next. Assuming there aren't any kinks in the set up, fit new inners - again, cheap and not a bad idea
And, in the process of all this, make sure they're adjusted properly.
I'd be looking at cables next. Assuming there aren't any kinks in the set up, fit new inners - again, cheap and not a bad idea
And, in the process of all this, make sure they're adjusted properly.
