Peugeot late 70s, early 80s?
07-12-19, 08:21 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Peugeot late 70s, early 80s?
Hello guys!
I would like your opinion on a Peugeot frame I found. What model is this? Searched the web and I have some possible IDs but nothing exact.
I'm thinking of buying it and try to restore it. Don't know what to do with that paint though...
The seller asks around 40-50 Euros and sent me the following pics:
I would like your opinion on a Peugeot frame I found. What model is this? Searched the web and I have some possible IDs but nothing exact.
I'm thinking of buying it and try to restore it. Don't know what to do with that paint though...
The seller asks around 40-50 Euros and sent me the following pics:
07-12-19, 08:56 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
In order to avoid repainting it, was thinking to maybe chrome the chain and seat stays. The rest of the frame to clean the rust which is not that bad and see if the result is acceptable.
07-12-19, 08:56 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,244
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 3,324 Times
in
2,170 Posts
-----
Great buy at 50 Euro!
531 DB tubing
Verot 104bis chainset
Atom/Maillard 700 pedal
looks to be model PFN10E
1980 catalogue page -
-----
Great buy at 50 Euro!
531 DB tubing
Verot 104bis chainset
Atom/Maillard 700 pedal
looks to be model PFN10E
1980 catalogue page -
-----
07-12-19, 09:00 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,504
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 586 Post(s)
Liked 612 Times
in
447 Posts
As far as model, hard to say. I tried my best years ago to ID a Pug and every time I thought I had it nailed down, I saw something that led me to another model and then that model didn't quite match up. So best you can do sometimes is figure out what "tier" it fits into.
It does have the Reynolds 531, so that is a plus. The paint is obviously a problem, but the first question I have is what do you want it for? You say restore it, but do you mean to rideable condition or to "near new" condition? I would say that some of the components might be beyond saving. The brake levers are quite chewed up. They are beyond polishing, in my opinion. That is, unless you just want it for a beater. With some elbow grease you can remove a lot of the rust and use touch-up paint and have an acceptable rider that looks good from 10 feet. Otherwise you are looking at a repaint and new decals. That gets expensive. Would the end result be worth it to you?
As it sits, it will likely need new bearings and grease, definitely new bar tape, brake and shifter cables, brake hoods and probably brake pads. The forks might clean up better than you expect. They don't look horrible. I've seen much worse.
The rear derailer is suspect, but may be salvageable. I do like the drilled chain rings. I'm a drillium fan. Saddle is roached.
The frame is not a lot of money, about $50.00 American, so not a huge risk if things don't work the way you expect. But again, it depends on what you want it for.
Finally but most importantly, check the seat post to make sure it isn't frozen. Same for the stem. Make sure they are both loose. The fluted seatposts in particular allow for a lot of moisture to work its way into the frame. Check for internal corrosion too.
Hope this helps.
It does have the Reynolds 531, so that is a plus. The paint is obviously a problem, but the first question I have is what do you want it for? You say restore it, but do you mean to rideable condition or to "near new" condition? I would say that some of the components might be beyond saving. The brake levers are quite chewed up. They are beyond polishing, in my opinion. That is, unless you just want it for a beater. With some elbow grease you can remove a lot of the rust and use touch-up paint and have an acceptable rider that looks good from 10 feet. Otherwise you are looking at a repaint and new decals. That gets expensive. Would the end result be worth it to you?
As it sits, it will likely need new bearings and grease, definitely new bar tape, brake and shifter cables, brake hoods and probably brake pads. The forks might clean up better than you expect. They don't look horrible. I've seen much worse.
The rear derailer is suspect, but may be salvageable. I do like the drilled chain rings. I'm a drillium fan. Saddle is roached.
The frame is not a lot of money, about $50.00 American, so not a huge risk if things don't work the way you expect. But again, it depends on what you want it for.
Finally but most importantly, check the seat post to make sure it isn't frozen. Same for the stem. Make sure they are both loose. The fluted seatposts in particular allow for a lot of moisture to work its way into the frame. Check for internal corrosion too.
Hope this helps.
07-12-19, 09:04 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
07-12-19, 09:08 AM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
As far as model, hard to say. I tried my best years ago to ID a Pug and every time I thought I had it nailed down, I saw something that led me to another model and then that model didn't quite match up. So best you can do sometimes is figure out what "tier" it fits into.
It does have the Reynolds 531, so that is a plus. The paint is obviously a problem, but the first question I have is what do you want it for? You say restore it, but do you mean to rideable condition or to "near new" condition? I would say that some of the components might be beyond saving. The brake levers are quite chewed up. They are beyond polishing, in my opinion. That is, unless you just want it for a beater. With some elbow grease you can remove a lot of the rust and use touch-up paint and have an acceptable rider that looks good from 10 feet. Otherwise you are looking at a repaint and new decals. That gets expensive. Would the end result be worth it to you?
As it sits, it will likely need new bearings and grease, definitely new bar tape, brake and shifter cables, brake hoods and probably brake pads. The forks might clean up better than you expect. They don't look horrible. I've seen much worse.
The rear derailer is suspect, but may be salvageable. I do like the drilled chain rings. I'm a drillium fan. Saddle is roached.
The frame is not a lot of money, about $50.00 American, so not a huge risk if things don't work the way you expect. But again, it depends on what you want it for.
Finally but most importantly, check the seat post to make sure it isn't frozen. Same for the stem. Make sure they are both loose. The fluted seatposts in particular allow for a lot of moisture to work its way into the frame. Check for internal corrosion too.
Hope this helps.
It does have the Reynolds 531, so that is a plus. The paint is obviously a problem, but the first question I have is what do you want it for? You say restore it, but do you mean to rideable condition or to "near new" condition? I would say that some of the components might be beyond saving. The brake levers are quite chewed up. They are beyond polishing, in my opinion. That is, unless you just want it for a beater. With some elbow grease you can remove a lot of the rust and use touch-up paint and have an acceptable rider that looks good from 10 feet. Otherwise you are looking at a repaint and new decals. That gets expensive. Would the end result be worth it to you?
As it sits, it will likely need new bearings and grease, definitely new bar tape, brake and shifter cables, brake hoods and probably brake pads. The forks might clean up better than you expect. They don't look horrible. I've seen much worse.
The rear derailer is suspect, but may be salvageable. I do like the drilled chain rings. I'm a drillium fan. Saddle is roached.
The frame is not a lot of money, about $50.00 American, so not a huge risk if things don't work the way you expect. But again, it depends on what you want it for.
Finally but most importantly, check the seat post to make sure it isn't frozen. Same for the stem. Make sure they are both loose. The fluted seatposts in particular allow for a lot of moisture to work its way into the frame. Check for internal corrosion too.
Hope this helps.
And I want it to be in a rideable condition and to also look good. That is why I'm thinking of chroming the seat and chain stays and try to salvage the rest of the paint.
07-12-19, 09:13 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,504
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 586 Post(s)
Liked 612 Times
in
447 Posts
Thanks for spelling out what you want to do with it. But please, at least consider using a front brake. If you use a coaster brake hub, then perhaps you can get by with that alone, but I still like a front brake just in case. If you choose fixed gear, I still would have a front brake.
So you can strip the frame of all of the shifting components at least. Chrome is great so long as it is affordable. Can you chrome the rear triangle without messing up all of the rest of the paint? I don't think that is possible.
So you can strip the frame of all of the shifting components at least. Chrome is great so long as it is affordable. Can you chrome the rear triangle without messing up all of the rest of the paint? I don't think that is possible.
07-12-19, 09:55 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,244
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 3,324 Times
in
2,170 Posts
-----
Thanks for pointing out me error!
1981 catalogue page for PKN10 -
-----
Thanks for pointing out me error!
1981 catalogue page for PKN10 -
-----
07-12-19, 10:31 AM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for spelling out what you want to do with it. But please, at least consider using a front brake. If you use a coaster brake hub, then perhaps you can get by with that alone, but I still like a front brake just in case. If you choose fixed gear, I still would have a front brake.
So you can strip the frame of all of the shifting components at least. Chrome is great so long as it is affordable. Can you chrome the rear triangle without messing up all of the rest of the paint? I don't think that is possible.
So you can strip the frame of all of the shifting components at least. Chrome is great so long as it is affordable. Can you chrome the rear triangle without messing up all of the rest of the paint? I don't think that is possible.
Regarding the chromed stays... I'm not sure. I'll have to find out.
Also, @juvela, thank you for your investigation. Is there a chance it could be a PXN10E Super Competition? The PKN has chrome socks on the fork, while the PXN has full chrome.
07-12-19, 11:24 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
The PKN 10 was reynolds 531 double butted main tubes but this bike has a 531 forks as well. Perhaps this is a PKN 10 with an "upgraded" fork. In any case the color scheme likely puts this early 80s. This is a quality bike with a fine frame and parts but it obviously needs work.
07-12-19, 03:44 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
The OP is obviously in Europe and I think that the bike--reynolds double butted 531 main triangle and 531 fork--is a European model, the PS 10.
https://www.vintage-bicycles.de/renn...peugeot-ps-10/
I don't believe this model was ever imported into the states. It's a very fine bike at the asking price even with the obvious issues in terms of condition.
https://www.vintage-bicycles.de/renn...peugeot-ps-10/
I don't believe this model was ever imported into the states. It's a very fine bike at the asking price even with the obvious issues in terms of condition.
07-13-19, 12:26 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
Liked 207 Times
in
126 Posts
Sorry but I shutter at the thought of making this bike a fixed gear bike. People should get the bike they want to ride and if you enjoy it than that's the important thing but I'm not a fan. Cleaning this one up and adding new consumables would do wonders for is value. Paint and decals would be nice but can get expensive. Rust removal and touch up paint is a cheaper way. Many paint shops will use the fork as a guide to make up a pretty good can of touch up. The components are nice and should clean up nicely. Truth is I have a soft spot for Peugeots and having worked on quite a few I wonder if the soft spot is in my head. The plethora of non-standard sizes and thread types can lead to premature aging and hair-loss. So keep that in mind but some of those difficulties will be encountered in the fixie remake so there's that.
