Schwinn Meridian Freewheel Hub Disassembly
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Schwinn Meridian Freewheel Hub Disassembly
Adult tricycle, Schwinn Meridian, 2018, maintenance schedule says to oil the freewheel every 6 months – more in rainy or dusty conditions. I assembled that trike June 2018, so it is coming up on the second time to oil the freewheel. Weekly schedule includes lubing both chains, which I do. I currently use 3-in-1 oil for that, and each week I also put some oil by the ends of the sealed freewheel hub, an intermediate hub between the primary chain and secondary chain, in hopes it might absorb some of the oil. However, the past few weeks, the drivetrain has been intermittently squeaking. When I turn the bike over and turn the crank arms, I cannot reproduce the squeak. It must require my weight to squeak, and I can’t determine the source of the squeak while riding. My guess is the freewheel hub is causing the periodic squeaking.
A couple months ago, I removed a 42-tooth crankset and installed a 60-tooth crankset. I replaced both chains; after 3,300 miles, they were stretched and ready for replacement in addition to adding three inches on the primary chain. Adding tension to the primary chain was challenging; I figured out if I remove the rear frame to access the freewheel hub on the main frame, I could loosen the locknuts and slide the hub to add tension to the primary chain (like sliding the rear frame to tension the secondary chain). Then after about a week, the freehub started squeaking again. I noticed it wasn’t square with either the chainring or drive axle cog, so I adjusted it. It stopped squeaking for weeks, but the squeak came back. I’d like to try oiling it, but not sure how. Maybe I can remove the freewheel hub and disassemble it, oil the internals, and reassemble it. Any suggestions and/or advice would be appreciated.
A couple months ago, I removed a 42-tooth crankset and installed a 60-tooth crankset. I replaced both chains; after 3,300 miles, they were stretched and ready for replacement in addition to adding three inches on the primary chain. Adding tension to the primary chain was challenging; I figured out if I remove the rear frame to access the freewheel hub on the main frame, I could loosen the locknuts and slide the hub to add tension to the primary chain (like sliding the rear frame to tension the secondary chain). Then after about a week, the freehub started squeaking again. I noticed it wasn’t square with either the chainring or drive axle cog, so I adjusted it. It stopped squeaking for weeks, but the squeak came back. I’d like to try oiling it, but not sure how. Maybe I can remove the freewheel hub and disassemble it, oil the internals, and reassemble it. Any suggestions and/or advice would be appreciated.
#2
Really Old Senior Member
I have so much respect for 3-in-1 oil, I've never owned a can in my 70+ years. it's hard to think of an instance where it's the best lube for the job. BTW, what are those other 2 things it does?
Get a real chain lube for your chain, and other more "job specific" lubes for your other tasks.
Ditto with WD-40. I use it to flush grease/crud out of shifters/hubs. Nothing else on a bicycle because there's always something better.
Get a real chain lube for your chain, and other more "job specific" lubes for your other tasks.
Ditto with WD-40. I use it to flush grease/crud out of shifters/hubs. Nothing else on a bicycle because there's always something better.
Likes For Bill Kapaun:
#3
Banned
Trikes I've dealt with of that sort , both rear wheels the same but the powered one never uses its bearing ..
it's the other one that rolls freely oil in the powered one will keep it from rusting.. it's fixed to the drive shaft
the rolling one needs it for lubrication .. [You could swap wheels ]
3 in one is thin. 10 wt may be thicker .. apply frequently..
Store bought bar oil for homeowner chainsaws* has some stickiness to it.. so may not need as frequent application..
* firewood cutters, and logger's chainsaws just use old motor oil in the bar chain tank ..
disassembly of the freewheel ? don't bother ... flip the trike on its side , drip oil in..
the trike rear axle freewheels are not even offering a way to remove them, (unlike on Bicycles)
the whole piece the threaded one in the center, grips the soft key in the groove in the axle
to transmit the power.. Removing the nut on the free spinning wheel lets the axle come out..
...
it's the other one that rolls freely oil in the powered one will keep it from rusting.. it's fixed to the drive shaft
the rolling one needs it for lubrication .. [You could swap wheels ]
3 in one is thin. 10 wt may be thicker .. apply frequently..
Store bought bar oil for homeowner chainsaws* has some stickiness to it.. so may not need as frequent application..
* firewood cutters, and logger's chainsaws just use old motor oil in the bar chain tank ..
disassembly of the freewheel ? don't bother ... flip the trike on its side , drip oil in..
the trike rear axle freewheels are not even offering a way to remove them, (unlike on Bicycles)
the whole piece the threaded one in the center, grips the soft key in the groove in the axle
to transmit the power.. Removing the nut on the free spinning wheel lets the axle come out..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-11-19 at 01:29 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll tip on the side and drip in oil - sounds logical. And use a thicker oil.
Trikes I've dealt with of that sort , both rear wheels the same but the powered one never uses its bearing ..
it's the other one that rolls freely oil in the powered one will keep it from rusting.. it's fixed to the drive shaft
the rolling one needs it for lubrication .. [You could swap wheels ]
3 in one is thin. 10 wt may be thicker .. apply frequently..
Store bought bar oil for homeowner chainsaws* has some stickiness to it.. so may not need as frequent application..
* firewood cutters, and logger's chainsaws just use old motor oil in the bar chain tank ..
disassembly of the freewheel ? don't bother ... flip the trike on its side , drip oil in..
the trike rear axle freewheels are not even offering a way to remove them, (unlike on Bicycles)
the whole piece the threaded one in the center, grips the soft key in the groove in the axle
to transmit the power.. Removing the nut on the free spinning wheel lets the axle come out..
...
it's the other one that rolls freely oil in the powered one will keep it from rusting.. it's fixed to the drive shaft
the rolling one needs it for lubrication .. [You could swap wheels ]
3 in one is thin. 10 wt may be thicker .. apply frequently..
Store bought bar oil for homeowner chainsaws* has some stickiness to it.. so may not need as frequent application..
* firewood cutters, and logger's chainsaws just use old motor oil in the bar chain tank ..
disassembly of the freewheel ? don't bother ... flip the trike on its side , drip oil in..
the trike rear axle freewheels are not even offering a way to remove them, (unlike on Bicycles)
the whole piece the threaded one in the center, grips the soft key in the groove in the axle
to transmit the power.. Removing the nut on the free spinning wheel lets the axle come out..
...
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks; 3-in-1 claims to lube, clean and penetrate rust. I'm experimenting with oils, and will move on from 3-in-1.