Birdy thread
#1026
Senior Member
Well, there you go...
A second person telling you straight up long-cage is a no-go on 355. Long-cage only begins to have sufficient ground clearance on 451.
#1027
Full Member
If I go for a Dualdrive or Sturmey Archer CS-RK3, I could use a short cage derailer with a 9/10 speed cassette. I'd have to check for suspension movement chain growth/shrink first. Worst case, a medium would work.
(I'm using 55-406 Big Apple on wide BMX rims, on another bike with medium cage derailer and front triple. It's close, but not too close.)
AFAIK it's the ONLY high quality full suspension bike out there that folds quickly, conveniently and compactly. That makes it easier to forgive some flaws...
#1028
Full Member
I hear you. Yet I also hear Riese & Müller, the people who designed and developed the bike, say the long cage is fine (implicitly, or they wouldn't have sold it like that). So I'm not decided yet. Whichever way I go, I'd have to build a new rear wheel. Which means I should buy the Touring with the long cage, just because it's slightly cheaper than the City model. There are hardly any differences apart from the rear hub/gearing and tyres.
#1029
Senior Member
I hear you. Yet I also hear Riese & Müller, the people who designed and developed the bike, say the long cage is fine (implicitly, or they wouldn't have sold it like that). So I'm not decided yet. Whichever way I go, I'd have to build a new rear wheel. Which means I should buy the Touring with the long cage, just because it's slightly cheaper than the City model. There are hardly any differences apart from the rear hub/gearing and tyres.
#1030
Full Member
Here we have a Kojak tyre, which in 355 size only exists in 32 mm width. A 44 or 50 mm tyre adds height. Second, this is offroad: dirt, leaves, plants. Riding paved only and being careful means you get much less crud like this. Again, I don't believe R & M would sell it with a long derailer if it was a terrible idea. It clearly does work well enough to pass quality control of a quality conscious German company. Yes, it does mean increased risk of failure, and a need to take more care when parking offroad, and increased chain wear due to more sand and dust being caught by the chain. Disadvantages which must be weighed against disadvantages of other solutions. NB: I appreciate your input and I agree on the risk, I just don't see it as quite as unworkable as you seem to do.
The 9-46t cassette with long derailer is tempting due to the simplicity of such a solution, but it's a pretty high price for a consumable part, and may not clear the chainstay. The SA CS-RK3 IHG with 11-34t cassette and short derailer solves the clearance issue and gives enough range, but is more complex, and the angles of the Birdy means rain will follow the indexer cable into the hub. These are the only two options with acceptable range and cost I see at the moment. I won't decide until I have the bike in front of me and can do accurate measurement.
The 9-46t cassette with long derailer is tempting due to the simplicity of such a solution, but it's a pretty high price for a consumable part, and may not clear the chainstay. The SA CS-RK3 IHG with 11-34t cassette and short derailer solves the clearance issue and gives enough range, but is more complex, and the angles of the Birdy means rain will follow the indexer cable into the hub. These are the only two options with acceptable range and cost I see at the moment. I won't decide until I have the bike in front of me and can do accurate measurement.
#1032
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if you check my red birdie I have a large cog r mech which sloves some clearence issues
#1033
Full Member
#1034
Senior Member
You can run a medium cage derailleur for up to 34 teeth, a long cage is not necessary. I've run a long cage with 355's, but it often hits things like the lips on curb cuts. I converted my Birdy to 406's, with the medium cage derailleur, and clearance is no longer an issue.
Hi again. Could you expand on this please? In what way does it affect the fold?
You an run a double on the front of a Birdy without interfering with the fold, but you have to make sure that your crankset has enough Q factor, leaving enough room for the front derailleur to travel. I used to run a double on mine with no troubles, but after converting to 11 speeds, two rings on front was no longer so necessary, so I went back to a single.
Hi again. Could you expand on this please? In what way does it affect the fold?
You an run a double on the front of a Birdy without interfering with the fold, but you have to make sure that your crankset has enough Q factor, leaving enough room for the front derailleur to travel. I used to run a double on mine with no troubles, but after converting to 11 speeds, two rings on front was no longer so necessary, so I went back to a single.
#1035
Full Member
You can run a medium cage derailleur for up to 34 teeth, a long cage is not necessary. I've run a long cage with 355's, but it often hits things like the lips on curb cuts. I converted my Birdy to 406's, with the medium cage derailleur, and clearance is no longer an issue.
How big tires do you think one could fit with 406 and mudguards? All the 406's I have seen have been using narrow racing tires which are a no-go with me. If 40-44mm won't fit, then I'll stay on 355.
You an run a double on the front of a Birdy without interfering with the fold, but you have to make sure that your crankset has enough Q factor, leaving enough room for the front derailleur to travel. I used to run a double on mine with no troubles, but after converting to 11 speeds, two rings on front was no longer so necessary, so I went back to a single.
#1036
Senior Member
i wondered the same thing, so i posed the question directly to PC. Their response, posted on the MTBR Folding and Travel bikes channel is that no, it cannot take tires as wide as that.
#1037
Senior Member
Yes, one of my options is Dualdrive or SA CS-MK3 with 9-speed cassette and short or medium cage derailer.
How big tires do you think one could fit with 406 and mudguards? All the 406's I have seen have been using narrow racing tires which are a no-go with me. If 40-44mm won't fit, then I'll stay on 355.
What sort of 11-speed is that, cassette or Alfine? What cassette size? I'm curious about whether big-range cassettes will work without the chain rubbing the chainstay. Thanks!
How big tires do you think one could fit with 406 and mudguards? All the 406's I have seen have been using narrow racing tires which are a no-go with me. If 40-44mm won't fit, then I'll stay on 355.
What sort of 11-speed is that, cassette or Alfine? What cassette size? I'm curious about whether big-range cassettes will work without the chain rubbing the chainstay. Thanks!
#1038
Full Member
Nice! Do you know what size the biggest cog is - 36t, 40t, larger? The 11-speed XTR goes at least to 40, possibly larger.
#1039
Senior Member
The 11 speed is 11 to 40 teeth, it looks like a dinner plate on 20" wheels. I've looked at the 12 speed, but don't need anywhere near that much gearing, and I would have to change my hubs. On the other hand, it would look pretty cool (which is important). Tempting...
#1040
Full Member
The 11 speed is 11 to 40 teeth, it looks like a dinner plate on 20" wheels. I've looked at the 12 speed, but don't need anywhere near that much gearing, and I would have to change my hubs. On the other hand, it would look pretty cool (which is important). Tempting...
#1041
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Good evening. Some of you may recall me posting a few questions about an older Birdy for sale near me. I appreciate greatly the advice I received, and ended-up purchasing it for a very reasonable $300. The gearing, as purchased (with cassette removed) was much too low. So my first order of business was to get a cassette back on it. However, I noticed that in the lower 4 gears, the chain rubs against the frame (see the photos below; sorry they're a little crappy). The last photo is of the chain in the highest gear, with the resulting clearance. Am I missing something obvious? The bike was obviously made for an 8-speed cassette, so I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong.
Also, I'm wondering if I'm folding it correctly. When folded, should the 2 wheels be parallel to each other? I can't seem to get it that way since the side of the front wheel hub hits the rear derailleur. Maybe that's normal, but I'd love it if someone with more experience could confirm.
Thanks very much!
Also, I'm wondering if I'm folding it correctly. When folded, should the 2 wheels be parallel to each other? I can't seem to get it that way since the side of the front wheel hub hits the rear derailleur. Maybe that's normal, but I'd love it if someone with more experience could confirm.
Thanks very much!
#1042
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Also, I'm wondering if I'm folding it correctly. When folded, should the 2 wheels be parallel to each other? I can't seem to get it that way since the side of the front wheel hub hits the rear derailleur. Maybe that's normal, but I'd love it if someone with more experience could confirm.
#1043
Full Member
Good evening. Some of you may recall me posting a few questions about an older Birdy for sale near me. I appreciate greatly the advice I received, and ended-up purchasing it for a very reasonable $300. The gearing, as purchased (with cassette removed) was much too low. So my first order of business was to get a cassette back on it. However, I noticed that in the lower 4 gears, the chain rubs against the frame (see the photos below; sorry they're a little crappy). The last photo is of the chain in the highest gear, with the resulting clearance. Am I missing something obvious? The bike was obviously made for an 8-speed cassette, so I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong.
#1044
Member
Looking for a decent lightweight rack for my Birdy MK2 frame. Anyone know of a supplier in the EU?
Also, I just don't get on the original v-brakes. What are my options in terms of replacements?
Also, I just don't get on the original v-brakes. What are my options in terms of replacements?
#1045
Full Member
Nice photo!
#1046
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The current Birdies are sold with a 52t chainring. Your chainring looks a bit smaller, and your chain seems to miss the cutout in the chainstay, just above it. If the chainring isn't original, the whole crankset may not be either, in which case the chainring may also be too close to the center of the bike. But judging from how big the chainring protector is, it looks like it's just the chainring that has been swapped out for a smaller one.
#1047
Full Member
Thanks very much for this info. You're definitely correct about the chainring... the one installed on my bike is a 48t. And until you mentioned it, I hadn't noticed the cutout on the chainstay; such a small yet obvious detail. However, the cutout is still about an inch above where the chain is currently. Will a 52t chainring make that much of a difference? Would you also happen to have any info about the original crankset, in case I need to go back to it? The Birdy is such an elusive beast around here that I'm not sure that many bike shops will have experience working on them. I feel that if I can provide as much info as possible, that will make the job of making sure everything works that much easier.
#1048
Senior Member
Thanks very much for this info. You're definitely correct about the chainring... the one installed on my bike is a 48t. And until you mentioned it, I hadn't noticed the cutout on the chainstay; such a small yet obvious detail. However, the cutout is still about an inch above where the chain is currently. Will a 52t chainring make that much of a difference? Would you also happen to have any info about the original crankset, in case I need to go back to it? The Birdy is such an elusive beast around here that I'm not sure that many bike shops will have experience working on them. I feel that if I can provide as much info as possible, that will make the job of making sure everything works that much easier.
You can run any Shimano square taper crank set, you can also adapt the Octalink or Hollowtech crank sets and bottom brackets. The stock crank set is quite heavy, it was the first thing I swapped out on my Birdy. I like the Hollowtech 2 crank and bottom bracket (Ultegra or Dura Ace), which weighs half as much, and is not hard to find.
The fold is correct, the front wheel will stick out a little. You can get the fold tighter if you use a more compact derailleur. You can run just about any Shimano cassette and derailleur, from 8 speeds to 11 speeds.
Last edited by 50PlusCycling; 08-16-18 at 03:01 AM.
#1049
Senior Member
#1050
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chain clearence frame clearence, chain line
I run a litepro combination chainguard and cog set. Its around 25£ on ebay. Then you can mounted the combination with the cog on the outside of the crank spider. This solves many issues. Like frame rub. Tyre rub.
clearence of cogs from rear frame stays on folding.
clearence of cogs from rear frame stays on folding.