Old Track Bike - use it as Fixie?
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Old Track Bike - use it as Fixie?
Hi guys,
some time ago I have bought this track bike originally used in Belgium for track races. It is nervex frame with Campagnolo/Cinelli/Brooks hardware. I would like to use it as fixie. After some busy months I have finally found time to ride this bike.
When I tried to stop with skid the single speed rear wheel just unscrewed from the hub. I didn't check the mechanism earlier :/
I suppose there is no other option how to turn this bike into fixie than buy new rear hub?
Photos uploaded here on imgbb.com -> The bike photos
Thank you for your advice!
some time ago I have bought this track bike originally used in Belgium for track races. It is nervex frame with Campagnolo/Cinelli/Brooks hardware. I would like to use it as fixie. After some busy months I have finally found time to ride this bike.
When I tried to stop with skid the single speed rear wheel just unscrewed from the hub. I didn't check the mechanism earlier :/
I suppose there is no other option how to turn this bike into fixie than buy new rear hub?
Photos uploaded here on imgbb.com -> The bike photos
Thank you for your advice!
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Is there a lock ring on the outside of the cog? If it's properly tightened with a lock-ring you shouldn't have any problems except if you put it under extreme duress.
That's a really lovely frame. As a caveat, I am among many who always recommends having at least a front brake in case of emergency stopping. I have ridden fixed-gear bicycles for hundreds of miles of commuting and pleasure in both urban and rural settings, and even though I rarely used my brake when I did need it I was certainly glad it was there!
-Gregory
That's a really lovely frame. As a caveat, I am among many who always recommends having at least a front brake in case of emergency stopping. I have ridden fixed-gear bicycles for hundreds of miles of commuting and pleasure in both urban and rural settings, and even though I rarely used my brake when I did need it I was certainly glad it was there!
-Gregory
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Appears you have a few things visible-
that is an odd rear hub as the flanges are spaced more like a track hub but there is no lock ring left hand section- those are of just slightly smaller diameter. I think that this hub set was originally for a citibike.
I have seen guys try and use a bottom bracket lock ring jammed against the cog ( to fool race officials that want to see a lock ring )
I would not rely on that to hold together for skid stop backpedaling forces.
both hubs are missing their bearing covers.
this was done from time to time by track racers as they would just flush out the bearings often and add a few drops of oil before a race session. ( I am guilty of this)
But! Tracks are pretty clean and what I described is servicing the bearings about after every hour of use.
these hubs am under the labels are Nuovo Tipo hubs. Super rare would be an authentic track rear hub.
if it were me, time to look for a real track wheel set, full sets often go cheaper. If you find a Campagnolo hub set- keep in mind that the axle nuts are available new still and expensive!
so, look for a set that has all the hardware, nuts and cog lock ring ( also available- Campagnolo uses a wee bit different threading - so also not cheap!)
removing the bearing shields on a bike destined to see road use is borderline poser and stupid. I think good chance the cones may already be toast. The bearings look quite dirty.
that is an odd rear hub as the flanges are spaced more like a track hub but there is no lock ring left hand section- those are of just slightly smaller diameter. I think that this hub set was originally for a citibike.
I have seen guys try and use a bottom bracket lock ring jammed against the cog ( to fool race officials that want to see a lock ring )
I would not rely on that to hold together for skid stop backpedaling forces.
both hubs are missing their bearing covers.
this was done from time to time by track racers as they would just flush out the bearings often and add a few drops of oil before a race session. ( I am guilty of this)
But! Tracks are pretty clean and what I described is servicing the bearings about after every hour of use.
these hubs am under the labels are Nuovo Tipo hubs. Super rare would be an authentic track rear hub.
if it were me, time to look for a real track wheel set, full sets often go cheaper. If you find a Campagnolo hub set- keep in mind that the axle nuts are available new still and expensive!
so, look for a set that has all the hardware, nuts and cog lock ring ( also available- Campagnolo uses a wee bit different threading - so also not cheap!)
removing the bearing shields on a bike destined to see road use is borderline poser and stupid. I think good chance the cones may already be toast. The bearings look quite dirty.
Last edited by repechage; 09-12-20 at 08:57 AM.
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The bike does not seem to have any provision for mounting a brake. Even if you install the missing lockring you still won't have a bike that is safe to ride on the street. The bike is already a fixie, albeit one that is missing a critical part
Last edited by alcjphil; 09-12-20 at 08:59 AM.
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#5
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There are some work around for adding a brake. There might have been a tread on this several months ago. The part was not cheap but looked like any easy attachment.
in any case, yeah, you need a wheel with a lock ring. Loosen the cog, the chain comes off, at best you loose some paint, at worst the chain gets between the wheel and the stay.
in any case, yeah, you need a wheel with a lock ring. Loosen the cog, the chain comes off, at best you loose some paint, at worst the chain gets between the wheel and the stay.
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Either way, you'll need to replace the rear hub if you want to do skid stops.
Also, if you do decide to put on a front brake, I'd suggest swapping to a road front fork. Those blades are particularly small in diameter and were probably not designed to withstand braking forces.
-Kurt
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I have bought the bike quite cheap and of course I know there are bearing shields missing but I still like it.
I also got the idea that I could buy some coaster brake hub, some older rim from the 70s or 80s and complete the bike like that. I am used to brake with rear wheel and except the coaster brake hub doesn't look so good, for me it wuld still be great bike to ride in the city.
What do you think?
I also got the idea that I could buy some coaster brake hub, some older rim from the 70s or 80s and complete the bike like that. I am used to brake with rear wheel and except the coaster brake hub doesn't look so good, for me it wuld still be great bike to ride in the city.
What do you think?
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Track frame restored with a SRAM Automatix coaster brake rear hub
I have bought the bike quite cheap and of course I know there are bearing shields missing but I still like it.
I also got the idea that I could buy some coaster brake hub, some older rim from the 70s or 80s and complete the bike like that. I am used to brake with rear wheel and except the coaster brake hub doesn't look so good, for me it wuld still be great bike to ride in the city.
What do you think?
I also got the idea that I could buy some coaster brake hub, some older rim from the 70s or 80s and complete the bike like that. I am used to brake with rear wheel and except the coaster brake hub doesn't look so good, for me it wuld still be great bike to ride in the city.
What do you think?
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Yes! It is my imagination of how the bike could look like. I would like the rear hub a little bit smaller and completely chrome and keep the front wheel. So I need to find some tubeless vintage rim and compatible coaster hub. I am not sure about the width of the hub - so I can mount it with the frame?
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Hi guys,
some time ago I have bought this track bike originally used in Belgium for track races. It is nervex frame with Campagnolo/Cinelli/Brooks hardware. I would like to use it as fixie. After some busy months I have finally found time to ride this bike.
When I tried to stop with skid the single speed rear wheel just unscrewed from the hub. I didn't check the mechanism earlier :/
I suppose there is no other option how to turn this bike into fixie than buy new rear hub?
Photos uploaded here on imgbb.com -> The bike photos
Thank you for your advice!
some time ago I have bought this track bike originally used in Belgium for track races. It is nervex frame with Campagnolo/Cinelli/Brooks hardware. I would like to use it as fixie. After some busy months I have finally found time to ride this bike.
When I tried to stop with skid the single speed rear wheel just unscrewed from the hub. I didn't check the mechanism earlier :/
I suppose there is no other option how to turn this bike into fixie than buy new rear hub?
Photos uploaded here on imgbb.com -> The bike photos
Thank you for your advice!
That is beautiful, I would not do anything to change it up but leave it as is and get the fixed gear right then find a velodrome.
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Yes! It is my imagination of how the bike could look like. I would like the rear hub a little bit smaller and completely chrome and keep the front wheel. So I need to find some tubeless vintage rim and compatible coaster hub. I am not sure about the width of the hub - so I can mount it with the frame?
Sturmey makes one as well in the all-important, clear anodized aluminum color you wish:
https://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Arche.../dp/B0041X814O
This is, of course, provided you like the idea of a kickback two-speed.
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 02-21-21 at 09:13 AM.
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I think that's a SRAM Automatix - a two-speed kickback. Gives you both a quality coaster and two gears with no extra cables.
Sturmey makes one as well in the all-important, clear anodized aluminum color you wish:
https://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Arche.../dp/B0041X814O
This is, of course, provided you like the idea of a kickback two-speed.
-Kurt
Sturmey makes one as well in the all-important, clear anodized aluminum color you wish:
https://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Arche.../dp/B0041X814O
This is, of course, provided you like the idea of a kickback two-speed.
-Kurt
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If you want low costs, compare those costs to what it would cost to buy a fixer road bike and pull the fork and brake.
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Appears you have a few things visible-
that is an odd rear hub as the flanges are spaced more like a track hub but there is no lock ring left hand section- those are of just slightly smaller diameter. I think that this hub set was originally for a citibike.
I have seen guys try and use a bottom bracket lock ring jammed against the cog ( to fool race officials that want to see a lock ring )
I would not rely on that to hold together for skid stop backpedaling forces.
...
that is an odd rear hub as the flanges are spaced more like a track hub but there is no lock ring left hand section- those are of just slightly smaller diameter. I think that this hub set was originally for a citibike.
I have seen guys try and use a bottom bracket lock ring jammed against the cog ( to fool race officials that want to see a lock ring )
I would not rely on that to hold together for skid stop backpedaling forces.
...
Takeaway - a BB lockring works quite nicely! But I wouldn't go there if I planned to make my stops by skidding.
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Looks like a 151 BCD track crank to boot. I'd find a rear campy high flange track hub and rebuild that wheel. Add a wee small front brake and ride it. I rode a track bike in the city often and it wasn't a problem except the strain of keeping one's neck up to see what's coming. I also think it makes you a better, smoother rider overall but some may dismiss that as hooey. I don't.
I'm always shilling for the old F&S Duomatics if you wanted to go that route. Great coaster brakes and the extra gear helps.
A beautiful bike.
I'm always shilling for the old F&S Duomatics if you wanted to go that route. Great coaster brakes and the extra gear helps.
A beautiful bike.
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If you plan on stopping by skidding on a regular basis, make sure to buy a few extra tires. You will be changing them often. Coaster brakes are able to slow and stop you without skidding. By the way, there is no such thing as a vintage tubeless rim. Road tubeless tires have only been around for about 10-12 years. You are probably thinking of tubular tires which are far too expensive to replace if you skid stop and will wear out far too fast
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If you plan on stopping by skidding on a regular basis, make sure to buy a few extra tires. You will be changing them often. Coaster brakes are able to slow and stop you without skidding. By the way, there is no such thing as a vintage tubeless rim. Road tubeless tires have only been around for about 10-12 years
Maybe I've taken a lot of risks in the last few years with ring only but my friends and many fixie riders use just lock rings. What other safety option is there when you want to ride pure fixie brakeless bike?
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I have bought the bike quite cheap and of course I know there are bearing shields missing but I still like it.
I also got the idea that I could buy some coaster brake hub, some older rim from the 70s or 80s and complete the bike like that. I am used to brake with rear wheel and except the coaster brake hub doesn't look so good, for me it wuld still be great bike to ride in the city.
What do you think?
I also got the idea that I could buy some coaster brake hub, some older rim from the 70s or 80s and complete the bike like that. I am used to brake with rear wheel and except the coaster brake hub doesn't look so good, for me it wuld still be great bike to ride in the city.
What do you think?
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#25
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This is why some folks use left hand drive for fixed gear, because this makes the rear cog self-tightening during deceleration. The only problem is that this makes the pedals self-loosening, unless one can find a front crankset for a crossover drive tandem application.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069