Carbon fibre fork for a clydesdale
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Carbon fibre fork for a clydesdale
Hi all,
I have been struggling to find any comparative tests on aftermarket CF forks online. Basically I'm trying to get a safe & stiff CF fork for my road bike, but have not really been able to find any information to be any wiser what would be better. I have been looking at the Columbus offering (the various Tusk models), as well as Richey Comp Carbon Road model.
Could someone wise tell me, is it safer to have an aluminium steerer, or a carbon fibre one? Which one is stiffer?
I have friends who tell me to get an all CF fork, but I've got a feeling that what they feel is stiff, will not necessarily be stiff for my 230lb!
Thanks in advance!
Jani
I have been struggling to find any comparative tests on aftermarket CF forks online. Basically I'm trying to get a safe & stiff CF fork for my road bike, but have not really been able to find any information to be any wiser what would be better. I have been looking at the Columbus offering (the various Tusk models), as well as Richey Comp Carbon Road model.
Could someone wise tell me, is it safer to have an aluminium steerer, or a carbon fibre one? Which one is stiffer?
I have friends who tell me to get an all CF fork, but I've got a feeling that what they feel is stiff, will not necessarily be stiff for my 230lb!
Thanks in advance!
Jani
#2
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230lbs I wouldn't give it a second thought - esp Ritchey. Ritchey stuff is solid.
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Carbon fork on my Defy when I was 210lbs, its been fine for over a year.
#4
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Carbon fork and carbon frame on my Giant when I was 225 lbs.
Boeing builds planes with CF, don't see the reason folks are concerned about CF being safe or not.
Boeing builds planes with CF, don't see the reason folks are concerned about CF being safe or not.
#5
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Full CF fork on my road bike and I'm a bit over 230. 4 years, no problems.
My former commuter had a CF fork w/ AL steerer. Didn't really notice any difference in stiffness. Mostly the CF steerer is for weight savings.
My former commuter had a CF fork w/ AL steerer. Didn't really notice any difference in stiffness. Mostly the CF steerer is for weight savings.
#6
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I understand that cf forks are safe, but I guess what I'm trying to find out is that what would be the most suitable cf fork for a clydesdale (stiffness & safety) given a max 250 bucks budget...
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Ritchey WCS full carbon can be bought for $259 on amazon. I think it is the 2011 model, I bought it and think it rides very nicely.
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Hi all,
I have been struggling to find any comparative tests on aftermarket CF forks online. Basically I'm trying to get a safe & stiff CF fork for my road bike, but have not really been able to find any information to be any wiser what would be better. I have been looking at the Columbus offering (the various Tusk models), as well as Richey Comp Carbon Road model.
Could someone wise tell me, is it safer to have an aluminium steerer, or a carbon fibre one? Which one is stiffer?
I have friends who tell me to get an all CF fork, but I've got a feeling that what they feel is stiff, will not necessarily be stiff for my 230lb!
Thanks in advance!
Jani
I have been struggling to find any comparative tests on aftermarket CF forks online. Basically I'm trying to get a safe & stiff CF fork for my road bike, but have not really been able to find any information to be any wiser what would be better. I have been looking at the Columbus offering (the various Tusk models), as well as Richey Comp Carbon Road model.
Could someone wise tell me, is it safer to have an aluminium steerer, or a carbon fibre one? Which one is stiffer?
I have friends who tell me to get an all CF fork, but I've got a feeling that what they feel is stiff, will not necessarily be stiff for my 230lb!
Thanks in advance!
Jani
2. An AL steer tube is safer in that it's more forgiving - if you overtorque the stem you won't hear the CRACK of several hundred dollars being flushed down the toilet. You're not going to feel any difference between the two.
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Hi,
thanks for you reply. I do not have a current fork, so I do have to buy one.
So, you're saying that safety-wise or stiffness-wise it does not make a difference?
cheers,
Jani
thanks for you reply. I do not have a current fork, so I do have to buy one.
So, you're saying that safety-wise or stiffness-wise it does not make a difference?
cheers,
Jani
1. OK, it's your money, but what's wrong with your current fork? You're not really going to feel much if any difference with a new fork unless the geometry changes.
2. An AL steer tube is safer in that it's more forgiving - if you overtorque the stem you won't hear the CRACK of several hundred dollars being flushed down the toilet. You're not going to feel any difference between the two.
2. An AL steer tube is safer in that it's more forgiving - if you overtorque the stem you won't hear the CRACK of several hundred dollars being flushed down the toilet. You're not going to feel any difference between the two.
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Most carbon forks are put on for weight savings/aero profile. If there is no issues with your current fork I say put your money elsewhere.
BUt if you are set on getting one. I rode a Leader Aero, full carbon, when i was up around 230 and it felt just as stiff as an AL fork i used previously. The stiffness and safety are both there these days.
BUt if you are set on getting one. I rode a Leader Aero, full carbon, when i was up around 230 and it felt just as stiff as an AL fork i used previously. The stiffness and safety are both there these days.
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If you need to buy a fork, the only reason I can think of to get an alu one is to save money.
I have a road bike I bought used, and commute on. It's a 2004 or 2005 model. It came with a very used carbon fork, which is still on it, and probably the same vintage. It's getting harder to find a road bike (for sale) that doesn't have a CF fork these days, and people have been buying them used for years.
I doubt you'll feel any difference in stiffness. Carbon is stronger than steel, but you're talking about pushing down on a column.
I have a road bike I bought used, and commute on. It's a 2004 or 2005 model. It came with a very used carbon fork, which is still on it, and probably the same vintage. It's getting harder to find a road bike (for sale) that doesn't have a CF fork these days, and people have been buying them used for years.
I doubt you'll feel any difference in stiffness. Carbon is stronger than steel, but you're talking about pushing down on a column.
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I've been riding on carbon ever since I was around 290ish. You should be just fine.
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Keep in mind that most forks with carbon steerers have a max recommended stack height so you should look at the length of your headtube and your position on the bike to see how much stack you think you will need. If what you need is greater than the max recommended height you should look for a different fork or get a fork with a different steerer material. That's applicable regardless of how much you weigh.
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at 230 pounds your not really "heavy" for this kind of equipment.
Carbon is LIGHT and STIFF but very brittle. so for really heavy people (400 pounds like me) not a good idea.
one pot hole or sharp impact might shatter one. if they make it a carbon/kevlar weave would be better.
carbon gives you the stiffness and kevlar gives you the flex/strength to compensate for the brittle carbon.
but again from a materials standpoint at 230 pounds your not taxing any of this equipment so buy what you like/can afford.
Carbon is LIGHT and STIFF but very brittle. so for really heavy people (400 pounds like me) not a good idea.
one pot hole or sharp impact might shatter one. if they make it a carbon/kevlar weave would be better.
carbon gives you the stiffness and kevlar gives you the flex/strength to compensate for the brittle carbon.
but again from a materials standpoint at 230 pounds your not taxing any of this equipment so buy what you like/can afford.
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My Marinoni was spec'd with a Alpha Q z-pro that is a Clyde specific beefy fork - I think it was overkill but it sure is solid. They are not making anymore but can be found on eBay at your price point