What paint, for a '50s-'60s Philippe stem?
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What paint, for a '50s-'60s Philippe stem?
I have this Philippe stem, I think it's late-'50s. (I think the '60s version is the one with the word Philippe in raised letters inside a sunken oval in the side of the extension. Pics of that style on request.)
Anyway, who has had good results filling in the red paint on these, or similar?
What paint do I use -- Testors? What brush? (or toothpick?)
Prep before painting? Do I need to remove the traces of old paint?
How thick can I lay the paint in without it cracking or wrinkling as it dries?
So many questions!
I don't need it to be perfect, I'd rather have it look original. I know the paint will be glossy and not match the patina on the rest of the bike, but I can live with that.
Many thanks for any advice!
Mark B in Seattle
Anyway, who has had good results filling in the red paint on these, or similar?
What paint do I use -- Testors? What brush? (or toothpick?)
Prep before painting? Do I need to remove the traces of old paint?
How thick can I lay the paint in without it cracking or wrinkling as it dries?
So many questions!
I don't need it to be perfect, I'd rather have it look original. I know the paint will be glossy and not match the patina on the rest of the bike, but I can live with that.
Many thanks for any advice!
Mark B in Seattle
#2
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I have used Testors enamel paint on similar parts with good results. I use 0000 steel wool to roughen the surface first to give the paint something to stick to and I use it on the paint after drying to give it a dull patina finish. I have an assortment of small brushes and use the one that seems to fit. I wouldn't bother trying to remove the old paint. Good luck and show us the results when your finished.
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Krylon "Short Cuts" paint pen available at your local art supply store:
Brent
Brent
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Thanks Brent and wschellen , I will report back. Home remodel in progress so it might be a while...
Mark B
Mark B
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Not a Phillipe but I painted a similar Milremo stem. Basic paint remover to clean out the old paint. Easy. Then clean with OMS then rubbing alcohol. I used a modeling brush but did not worry about doing it nicely, just get complete consistent coverage on the "slots". Wait a while for the overpaint to dry some then carefully scrape that off, leaving a nice sharp edge around the milled/cast in areas. The polished aluminum top surface does not hold paint well and scrapped clean quite easily. I use the sharp edge of a scrap of "Formica" type laminate. Hard enough to scrape the paint, way too soft to damage the aluminum. A scrap of hard plastic or plexiglass would work too. Got any old windshield ice scrapers?
I've most recently used the same approach on the seat post flutes for my Fuji TS III rehab. Low effort, high returns.
I've most recently used the same approach on the seat post flutes for my Fuji TS III rehab. Low effort, high returns.