cncspinner

I need help with adjusting my brakes when I remove my wheel. I need to remove the front wheel to load the bike onto my bike tray when traveling. Seems like everytime I put it back on I have to mess with it for 15 min to get the wheel to spin without the brake pads rubbing. I'm just undoing the qr and moving it a couple turns and messing with it over and over. I fo remove the cable quick disconnect from the brake to open the brakes up to remove the wheel. Is there a trick to this? I'm pretty sure I'm doing something wrong it should not be this difficult... thanks for any tips..

rm -rf

I didn't completely understand, but it sounds like you have trouble centering the wheel in the fork.

Do you put the wheel back on when the bike is on it's side? It's way easier to center the wheel correctly when the bike is upright, with the wheel on the ground, taking the weight of the bike, before you close the quick release. That way, the wheel axle is all the way up at the top of the fork's dropout.

If you stand up the bike, with the front quick release still wide open, and squeeze the front brake lever, do the pads hit the rim at the same time?

FBinNY 

Two possibilities.

The first and simplest is that you're not mounting in the identical position each time. The easiest way to consistently mount a front wheel is to do so with the bike upright on the ground. Regardless of your preferred method (any is OK) finish with the bike on the ground standing straight up with the QR open. This will let gravity settle the fork squarely on the axle, and you can then close the QR. Gravity is very reliable and you can rust it to get the wheel home very consistently.

The other relates to the brake itself. You make wheel remover easier by using the cable disconnect on the brake. Squeeze the arms together and pull the noodle back from the clip. The cable can now escape sideways through the keyhole slot in the clip, letting the bake open wide. After mounting, connect the cable the same way. The brakes are designed so there's enough arm travel to make this easy, but if you have the bakes adjusted very close i can be difficult. I set V-brakes so the shoes are as close to the rim as possible, but far enough that I can easily get the slack to move the noodle clear of the clip.

Lastly, if all is good, there's another source of brake centering inconsistency, Your brakes have an external spring with a leg bearing on the arms about 1-1/2" out from the pivot (disregard what follows if you have a hidden coil spring at the pivot). The spring arm moves up and down ant brake arm slightly as the brake open and closes. Friction between the spring and brake causes a bit of stiction, causing the brake to come to rest off center. If you put a drop of oil where the arm slides, you'll get more consistent action and the bake will stay centered for months.

rumrunn6

re: The spring arm moves up and down ant brake arm slightly as the brake open and closes. Friction between the spring and brake causes a bit of stiction, causing the brake to come to rest off center. If you put a drop of oil where the arm slides, you'll get more consistent action and the bake will stay centered for months.

nvr heard that before, will keep in mind when everyone's bikes emerge from the basement this summer

FBinNY 

This is only an issue when it becomes an issue. It's something to keep in mind as a possible (likely) cause of a brake that doesn't stay centered on it's own. If you adjust the spring balance and it stays balanced, then arm friction isn't an issue for you.

Like many subtle issues, it's something you keep filed away until you need it.

Retro Grouch 

See where your cable goes into that "U" shaped piece of metal on the right side of your wheel? If you squeeze the pads together with your fingers, you can pop that little noodle thing right out of there. That'll open up your brake pads.

The second trick is to re-install your wheel with the bike standing upright. If you do it that way the weight of the bike will seat the axle in the dropouts and the wheel and tire will center in the fork every time.

rmfnla

If you continue to have trouble with this stop in at a bike shop and ask them to help; it's pretty easy and even more so when someone shows it to you...

cncspinner

this is exactly how I'm doing it. And yes I believe the problem is the wheel is not centering. I never have an issue with my mountain bike, first try every time. As silly as I will feel I will probably take it up to the bike shop and ask for help. Thanks for all the replies

IrishBrewer

Once you get the wheel installed centered on the fork, if you still have issues with the pads not being properly offset, look for a small screw near the pivot bolt of the brake and that is used to adjust the spring tension on each side. Adjust these until the pads are both offset by the same amount. If your wheel is true you should be good to go after adjusting these properly.

dbg

Ditto. I suspect the pads are not centered and you are mitigating that by fiddling with how the wheel sits in the drops. Fit the wheel as described above (upright) and then address any pad misalignment next.