Gear questions
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Gear questions
I'm looking for a new cross build, most of the bikes I'm looking at run the Shimano 105 setup. Would that be a good start, or should I start looking for upgrades?
#2
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105 is a good groupset. It is considered the lowest level of a pro racing group...Shimano that is. They are available at a good price point. A little heavier than Ultegra, but works almost as well.
#5
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I put Ultegra on all my bikes. It's the 'sweet spot' for price/performance/value in the Shimano line. It is often said that today's Ultegra is yesterday's Dura Ace. Not familiar with the Fuji line, so can't give a recommendation on what group to put on the 1.5. It's doubtful that it is a junk frame. Fuji has a good reputation.
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It wouldn't be insensible to me, but what do you already have on the bike? If it were the current Tiagra or 10s 105, I wouldn't bother. Not worth the cost. I personally wouldn't want over 105 on my cross bike if it shifted. For the conditions and possibility of crash, I'd rather save some $$$ on replacement parts. (I ride it hard)
BTW, Fuji makes fine frames that perform and are still durable.
BTW, Fuji makes fine frames that perform and are still durable.
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Agree completely - Ultegra is nice, but completely unnecessary for a bike you are going to beat on (like a CX bike). 105 is fine for general riding - I have 105 5700 brifters on my gravel bike, and they have been fine for 2,000 + miles of riding in the sun, rain, and dirt.
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It wouldn't be insensible to me, but what do you already have on the bike? If it were the current Tiagra or 10s 105, I wouldn't bother. Not worth the cost. I personally wouldn't want over 105 on my cross bike if it shifted. For the conditions and possibility of crash, I'd rather save some $$$ on replacement parts. (I ride it hard)
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105 is good stuff; Ultegra is great, and Dura-Ace is excellent.
105 has most of the features of Ultegra with a little more weight. I wouldn't upgrade a 105 component until I break it or wear it out. If you're a competitive racer, then maybe the weight savings of Ultegra is worth it (your opinion). But in that case, you'd save money buying an Ultegra-equipped bike from the start.
FYI, SRAM Rival is roughly equivalent to 105, with Force and Red above.
The big question is what gearing range do you require? Many cross bikes come with a tight cassette (11-25) and a short cage derailleur, which is good for cross racing. With the mid-cage 105 GS rear derailleur, you can fit a wider 11-32 cassette, which makes sense if you intend to the bike as an all-rounder/light tourer.
105 has most of the features of Ultegra with a little more weight. I wouldn't upgrade a 105 component until I break it or wear it out. If you're a competitive racer, then maybe the weight savings of Ultegra is worth it (your opinion). But in that case, you'd save money buying an Ultegra-equipped bike from the start.
FYI, SRAM Rival is roughly equivalent to 105, with Force and Red above.
The big question is what gearing range do you require? Many cross bikes come with a tight cassette (11-25) and a short cage derailleur, which is good for cross racing. With the mid-cage 105 GS rear derailleur, you can fit a wider 11-32 cassette, which makes sense if you intend to the bike as an all-rounder/light tourer.
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That said we recommend you do NOT buy them if you are building a bike for fashion (we don't build to be pretty, just to perform.
Regardless, get out and ride ANY parts, ride just ride!
Goats
#13
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i'm running a Shimano CX50 crankset and i absolutely love it. the best thing about it is, i can shifts while under power. it even works with my SRAM double tap shifters. it's paired with a SRAM X9 RD and a Shimano 10 speed 11-36 cassette. i can climb anything.
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105 is an outstanding groupset. FWIW - I have been using the same pair of Shifter/Brake Levers since 2008 - switching from my old cross bike to the new one. Over time, I upgraded to an Ultegra rear derailleurs due to a crash - but the 105 groupset has worked flawlessly in over 5 years of muddy races plus now has new life on my new bike. In all those years I never missed a shift - even in the worst of conditions.
#15
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I am also starting to look at cyclocross bikes, and the gearing looks a lot like road gearing to me. I don't understand this since a lot of gravel grinders, and other off-road touring bikes are running 1 X 11 and much lower gearing. I am looking for example at the Trek Boone with the Ultegra crankset of 46-36. Knowing what kind of terrain that can be encountered on a CX track, would not something closer to mountain bike gearing make more sense? What am I missing about this?
105 is good stuff; Ultegra is great, and Dura-Ace is excellent.
105 has most of the features of Ultegra with a little more weight. I wouldn't upgrade a 105 component until I break it or wear it out. If you're a competitive racer, then maybe the weight savings of Ultegra is worth it (your opinion). But in that case, you'd save money buying an Ultegra-equipped bike from the start.
FYI, SRAM Rival is roughly equivalent to 105, with Force and Red above.
The big question is what gearing range do you require? Many cross bikes come with a tight cassette (11-25) and a short cage derailleur, which is good for cross racing. With the mid-cage 105 GS rear derailleur, you can fit a wider 11-32 cassette, which makes sense if you intend to the bike as an all-rounder/light tourer.
105 has most of the features of Ultegra with a little more weight. I wouldn't upgrade a 105 component until I break it or wear it out. If you're a competitive racer, then maybe the weight savings of Ultegra is worth it (your opinion). But in that case, you'd save money buying an Ultegra-equipped bike from the start.
FYI, SRAM Rival is roughly equivalent to 105, with Force and Red above.
The big question is what gearing range do you require? Many cross bikes come with a tight cassette (11-25) and a short cage derailleur, which is good for cross racing. With the mid-cage 105 GS rear derailleur, you can fit a wider 11-32 cassette, which makes sense if you intend to the bike as an all-rounder/light tourer.
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No, mountainbike gearing would be too low on a cyclocross race. You don't really need low gearing because there won't be any long hills. Anything steep enough that you can't ride you are better off running it. But you certainly want the tall gears on the flat sections.
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I am also starting to look at cyclocross bikes, and the gearing looks a lot like road gearing to me. I don't understand this since a lot of gravel grinders, and other off-road touring bikes are running 1 X 11 and much lower gearing. I am looking for example at the Trek Boone with the Ultegra crankset of 46-36. Knowing what kind of terrain that can be encountered on a CX track, would not something closer to mountain bike gearing make more sense? What am I missing about this?
Lots of folks start out cyclocross racing on their MTB, and then upgrade to a dedicated cross bike if they like racing.
However, you'll see a handful of 1x11 setups on 'cross bikes this season. You could tune a 1x11 to cover the same range of a 46/36 with 11-28, and save the complexity (and mud trap) of the front derailer.
The Boone and Crockett are Trek's race bikes, so they have typical racer gearing. The 920 is their "adventure/gravel" bike, but its MTB gearing may be too low for some folks. Their 720 has decent gearing (50/34 crank with 11-32 cassette) and can probably clear a 40 mm tire, but the geometry is a bit road-oriented.
Gearing is one of the big differences between a cyclocross bike and a well-designed "gravel" or "adventure" bike.
I don't race (though I may try one or two this season), so I built my bike up with wider gearing for hilly gravel and dirt roads. I used a medium-cage road RD, an 11-34 MTB cassette, and a 50/34 front crank.
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I race Bs on a flat bar bike that goes down to 34x36. Sometimes I run and sometimes it makes sense to grind it out, especially on longer run ups that can really spike your HR.
That said, my background is MTB and BMX, not track and field, so I play to my strengths. :-)
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So Shimano 5500 is a 105 groupset, 3 generations back. Hope this helps.
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thank you for the answer. yes is help. wich groupset is good to build road bike. and not cost much on ebay or general online. i have two road bikes have downtube shifters i want put brifters. also i have one road bike with tiagra groupset i want put better groupset in that bike. most i am looking to have one good build road bike. many bikes is hard to keep up.
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It's all about wheels and tires, man. On a retail bike, that's almost always where they skimp to make their pricepoint. You keep the stock wheels as backup.
105/Rival is great stuff, and it's essentially subsidized by the people who splurge for the high-end stuff. Shifting performance is IMO much more a function of how clean your cables, housings, and drivetrain are.
105/Rival is great stuff, and it's essentially subsidized by the people who splurge for the high-end stuff. Shifting performance is IMO much more a function of how clean your cables, housings, and drivetrain are.
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